Rainwater Collection\Guttering

[Dibs-h]

The fitting of the guttering on my workshop is imminent. The medium term plan is to have some sort of Rainwater harvesting - using black IBC's.

Now the original plan was to have the gutter on the front of the workshop draining to the left, merging with the downpipe from the new garage roof and going to the IBC's. As per the doodle below,

Vey little thought had been paid to the rear roofs (of the workshop & Garage). Now rather than have them drain to the end of the workshop and to their own IBC - I was wondering whether to have the 65mm pipe come into the building and then exit out of the front? Thereby connecting all the pipework together and filling the same set of IBC's. The width of the shop is around 4m and the 65mm pipe is available in 4.3m lengths - so wouldn't have any joints inside to leak. Any joints would be solvent welded anyway.

Hopefully the doodle below shows the proposed plan better.

Bringing the pipework inside - good idea or bad?

 

[MikeG.]

Bringing the pipework inside - good idea or bad?

Nasty, Dibs. Avoid internal RWP's like the plague. No, you are going to have to deal with rain off the rear roof/s along the outside of the back wall.

Mike

 

[Mr Ed]

I would never choose to bring an rwp internally - so many potential issues...leaks, condensation, noise

Ed

 

[Dibs-h]

Cheers Chaps. I may still have the workshop (rear) gutter drain to the middle and then connect to the garage rear gutter downpipe and run the lot to the front of the garage and down into a gulley. Will check the heights this evening.

I suppose I'm not really wanting to have IBC's all over the place for different gutters.

 

[head clansman]

hi dibs-h

take a look at my www below hope it of some help .hc

 

[Dibs-h]

hi dibs-h

take a look at my www below hope it of some help .hc

Cheers Martin - I saw that before and the idea started fermenting then. Just don't want loads of containers everywhere. I'm having to extend the patio slightly to give me a side access door to the new garage and a walkout area for the kitchen bit.

This should give me at least 3m2 - which should be almost enough space to "hide" 3 IBC's. 3,000 L of water should be a fair amount for watering the garden and filling the bogs.

House roofs - the rear one\s are all set to be fed to a system - the front ones aren't, these will need to be brought to the rear. Something for next yr perhaps.

 

[wobblycogs]

Our house has an internal rain water pipe and it's a complete liability. It got blocked after some pointing work was done which caused some us fun - imagine a 3m column of water suddenly being free to exit the bottom of a drain pipe while your holding it! Then the catch trough at the top sprung a leak which flooded the bathroom. Fortunatley there was a drain in the floor so no real damage but internal rainwater drains are a serious no-no in my book.

 

[Dibs-h]

Our house has an internal rain water pipe and it's a complete liability. It got blocked after some pointing work was done which caused some us fun - imagine a 3m column of water suddenly being free to exit the bottom of a drain pipe while your holding it! Then the catch trough at the top sprung a leak which flooded the bathroom. Fortunatley there was a drain in the floor so no real damage but internal rainwater drains are a serious no-no in my book.

The only reason I entertained it, was that there would be 1 complete length internally, with the entry & exits both outside the external walls. Thereby minimising any leakage issues within the building fabric.

 

[head clansman]

hi dibs -h

3,000 litres yikes a lot a lot of water , one problem spings to mind straight away , correct me if i'm wrong someone a gall of water weights about 10 ibs 3,000 litres that going to need a lot of support you can do the maths converion from litres to gall * 10 lbs = umm now let me see . hc

 

[MikeG.]

One litre of water weighs about a kilo, therefore 3000 litres equals c. 3 tonnes. Now then, doesn't metric make everything so much easier? :wink:

Mike

 

[laird]

Yes, but what's that in tons? That means something.

 

[DeepBlue]

Yes, but what's that in tons? That means something.

OK, we'll do it the old fashioned way:

3000 litres == 12.58 hogsheads

There are 4 hogsheads to the tun, so thats 3.14 tuns

The mass of 1 tun is 2,103.21 lbs, so thats 6614.39 lbs, which is 3.307 short tons

 

[Dibs-h]

One litre of water weighs about a kilo, therefore 3000 litres equals c. 3 tonnes. :wink:

Mike

That was just perfectly fine for me.

However, I do mix my tho's\microns, inches\mms, feet\yards and meters and only miles - all my weights seem to be metric.

 

[head clansman]

hi dib-h


ok, :lol: which ever way you like your maths results :lol: what are you to place under that sort of weight to support it. hc :wink:

 

[Dibs-h]

hi dib-h


ok, :lol: which ever way you like your maths results :lol: what are you to place under that sort of weight to support it. hc :wink:

I'll be building the new garage just after Xmas and using obscene amounts of C35 (in a domestic setting) and will just pour a "slab" with some left over A252 and sit them on that. Or maybe think of some "lighterweight" solution.

Goes without saying to have my friendy SE go over the lot.

 

[head clansman]

hi dibs-h

ok :lol: thats better :lol: .hc

 

[wobblycogs]

Although you have a single run internally to minimize posible leak points there is still a risk. We had a blockage form in a straight unjointed section of pipe which we unfortunately had to cut through to get at. Hence my dislike of internal rain water pipes.

 

[DeanN]

Hi,
How are you planning to cope with excess water - once the IBC's are full?. I've just purchased a black IBC myself with the intention of capturing water from my garage roof. However, the downpipe is currently on the opposite side of the garage to where I intend to locate the IBC - so need to devise a new guttering system that routes to the IBC, and then to the drains once full.

 

[Dibs-h]

Although you have a single run internally to minimize posible leak points there is still a risk. We had a blockage form in a straight unjointed section of pipe which we unfortunately had to cut through to get at. Hence my dislike of internal rain water pipes.

I see your point - in my case, although I will try and run it externally - I had thought of that particular "what if". As the pipe is just over 4m, and at a relatively shallow angle - all that one would needs to do is disconnect both ends and rod it.

But we'll see ho it goes. Good to get other people's perspectives.

 

[head clansman]

hi

one thing that will surprise you in heavy rain , is just how fast your tanks will fill up dependant on the catchment areas of course .

you need to sight the filled level at a point lower than the full tank , then place your overflows just above but between the full level and the full tank allowing an air space to allow for the overflow to run full blast in those whether conditions so your tanks wont overflow or you could then get a reserved back flow back up the drain pipe and water every where .

overflow sizing , needs to take as much water out as the weather may choose to put in at any one point that way you will always have the air space level maintained at all times hc