Radiator Covers

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Ironically, fitting a cover and reducing the efficiency does not impact much on running costs. Less of the heat transported by the water gets into the room and so more goes back to the boiler which can shut down earlier all other things being equal.

The only thing to get more heat output from a covered rad is to up the boiler stat - then the fuel consumption and heat losses go up.

As I said before - madness!
 
Jake":a6ild0n2 said:
9fingers":a6ild0n2 said:
Radiator covers are just madness!

Couldn't agree more - almost universally more ugly than the radiator they hide, too.

Buy a nicer radiator if you don't like the looks. Stuffing inside some hideous mockney wooden thing and trashing its ability to do what it is supposed to do is nuts.

But, hey it's business for 'Dan'.

Couldn't agree more, Jake.

I think they're horrible things, and completely pointless.

However, I'm a woodworking tart. I'd make an MDF wedding dress if the money was right!

Cheers
Dan

PS The first thing you see when you enter our house is a radiator cover which Mrs T bought in a sale at B&Q and then forced me to paint and fit.

The shame...
 
Rich,

radiators are a misnomer, and actually convect most of their heat. One test of radiation is whether the energy would be transferred through an intervening vacuum. A radiator would fail this test. Another way to look at it is to consider what would happen if the radiator was on a high ceiling above your head, say 6 metres up as in a sports hall. If it radiated its output, you would still be warmed just as efficiently. I suggest that you would feel pretty chilly with this arrangement!!!

Radiator covers remove the one asset that radiators have, which is speed of reaction to temperature change. The same total amount of heat will be transmitted in the long run, but just not exactly when it is needed.

Mike
 
Mike, if the rad is fitted with TRV'S, then yes a cover will inhibit the reaction time, but in the case of a room stat fitted in your hallway, that would determine the temperature change and nothing else.
 
All my covers have the TRV's inside with an opening to adjust them. Personally I think it's a nonsense that they won't work well enough inside the cover. If, for example, they were marked with a temperature then the opening and closing of the valve may occur slightly off temp in comparison to the room. However... they're marked with numbers so 5 inside the cabinet is prolly the same as 4 outside. The only time it becomes a problem is if you need your TRV's turned up full all the time, then there's no room for adjustment.

FWIW... I'm just about to build a rad cover for my living room. Primarily to protect the back of the sofa from the radiated heat. It will be completely open at the bottom, floating clear of the floor. It will have vents in the top. We'll be almost entirely reliant on convection. I'm expecting we'll almost be able to feel the flow of air in the room :D
 
If the central heating is controlled by a room stat, then the system should be balanced to make up for the short fall in time that the rad covers give.
Although a rad cover will slow down convection & absorb heat, this heat loss is to a component of the interior of the dwelling & as such is not a heat loss.
 
Radiators emit heat, partly by radiation and partly by convection. You can detect the radiated portion if you stand close to the vertical surface. The convection current can be detected above the radiator.

This schedule is an extract from the trade guide to design; an old version, but the same technical information applies.

Effects of Architectural Features and Surface Finish upon Heat Emission from Radiators:-
Ordinary paints and enamels - nil, irrespective of colour

Metallic paints (eg aluminium or bronze) - will reduce radiant output by 50% or more and overall emission by between 10 and 25%. Emission is substantially restored by two coats of clear varnish.

Open fronted recess - will reduce emission by 10%

Encasement with front grille - will reduce emission by 20% or more depending on design.

Radiator shelf - will reduce output by up to 10%

Height of radiator above floor - little effect above height of 100mm. If radiators are mounted at a high level, the emission will depend on a temperature condition at that level.




Some people apply metallic paint and encase the radiators!

The intention of the thermostatic valve is to detect the temperature in the room and adjust the flow of water into the radiator accordingly. By encasing it, it detects the temperature inside the casing. A remote detector head fitted to the valve is more appropriate, but people manage by setting the encased thermostat up. This works if the radiator was oversized in the first place and can produce more heat. If it is only just large enough to serve the room then encasing it may lower the temperature in the room.

By the way, I think casings are pretentious and ugly. If your client don't want to see the radiator then he should install a different form of heating surface. From your point of view just do what the client wants, get paid and walk away.
 
Interesting views about "casings" in this thread. Surely it depends on the style of the casing? The commonly available designs are not to my taste but please, people, use your imagination. Not all cases are bad.
 
Wizer,
I am in aggreement with you about top vents, when I did some in the past the fall in output was noticed by the client, so the next time I made some I put 9"x3" brass vents into the top which were very efficient.
Derek.
 
Spot the rad cover... This one has a very specific purpose (note the sofa in front...) hence the design:
3006720880_358b3d8038_o.jpg
 
Radiator covers don't have to be ugly. In fact they don't have to be a "cover" at all.

Jaga make super high efficiency convector type 'radiators' with an integrated wooden cover in Oak, Beech, Zebrano and Walnut veneers.

The OP could copy them or convince the client the Jaga's are better!

http://www.jaga.be/products.aspx?CLID=3319&IMID=0&SET=0#
 
So what's the difference? Just, as I said earlier, the top vents?

This is basically similar to how I wanted to ours.
 
The insides are highly efficient convectors, much more so than a standard rad - they use fin convectors like in skirting radiators or (fan driven) plinth radiators. Basically a whole series of thin sheet metal fins brazed (or whatever) to a central copper pipe. The sheet metal is very thin, so very delicate, so they need a casing, but it doesn't need to radiate heat, just let it out.
 
when we have made them at work from solid aslong as theres a good gap between the rad and the top and the tops has shrinkage plates is ok, well we have done 10+ and never had a problem, hope this helps in some way :lol:
 
http://www.jali.co.uk/

These people are good I was thinking of using them next time I have a run of rad covers to do.

I have a rad cover for my own house sitting up the workshop i made from mdf offcuts, all primed up waiting for me to put a grill in it and finish it. I only started it 2 years ago :oops: :lol: You know it takes time to find the right grill :lol:
 
Derek Willis.":4ueq9i2y said:
Matt,
Like the design, but it is not original, I have exactly the same, but in a different finish.
Derek.

I wanted something that more or less disappeared - hence the colour/finish and absence of design (if you see what I mean). What type of finish do you have?
 
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