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LarryS.

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Electrics now installed, significant upgrade from a single socket off a spur in the house :

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plus I just put the bandsaw together :

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just got to hire an enginer hoist to shift the beast onto a mobile base :
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Another big improvement :D - be warned,though,you will probably still find there aren't enough sockets.. :lol:

Andrew
 
If you are using an axminster or similar mobile base then no need for the engine crane.

Walk the P/T off the pallet onto a couple of blocks of wood a couple of inches off the floor. You can then assemble the base around the P/T.
With the wheels in the UP position, slide some packing under the wheels, then move the wheels to the down position. This will lift the P?T off the blocks Withdraw the blocks and roll the machine off the packing pieces.

HTH

Bob
 
9fingers":14pdj4iq said:
If you are using an axminster or similar mobile base then no need for the engine crane.

Walk the P/T off the pallet onto a couple of blocks of wood a couple of inches off the floor. You can then assemble the base around the P/T.
With the wheels in the UP position, slide some packing under the wheels, then move the wheels to the down position. This will lift the P?T off the blocks Withdraw the blocks and roll the machine off the packing pieces.

HTH

Bob
i like the sound of that idea bob, but how do you build the mobile base around the base of the p/t if its sitting on some blocks ?

cheers

paul
 
Paul, the base components are only lengths of steel angle and it is relatively easy to slip the angle between the block and the underside or the machine base.
It is one of those easier to do than describe jobs!

Good Luck

Bob
 
If not even a car jack will lift that up, most are rated on the side so if you just need to lift an edge up to slip the bits in that would work.
 
Workshop's looking really good Paul. Did you do all the electrics yourself? :shock:

Don't know if you plan to ever use the mitre fence on your bandsaw, but you'll probably have a lot more luck with it if you turn it around! :D

When you come to lifting the planer, don't forget that it's bolted to that ply and chipboard "pallet" - you can free it with a spanner by loosening the four (?) bolts from underneath.

Have you had a chance to play with the bandsaw yet?
 
OPJ":p5og5sbv said:
Workshop's looking really good Paul. Did you do all the electrics yourself? :shock:

Don't know if you plan to ever use the mitre fence on your bandsaw, but you'll probably have a lot more luck with it if you turn it around! :D

When you come to lifting the planer, don't forget that it's bolted to that ply and chipboard "pallet" - you can free it with a spanner by loosening the four (?) bolts from underneath.

Have you had a chance to play with the bandsaw yet?

Electrics was pretty simple really, and means I have gotten rid of the dreaded cables all over the floor

many thanks for sarcastic comment on mitre fence :D, it is there just for storage !!

as for the P/T - miracle of miracles this evening, myself and the girlfriend plus two bits of 2x4 managed to gradually lower it down to the ground (me lifting and man-handling it, her holding bits of wood and supports where required), then built the mobile base around it, now installed. Just need to add the fence and check its all set-up correctly (no idea how to do this!) and then buy some wood for the bench to try it out on. Will I need a straight edge to set it up or would a big spirit level do the job ?
 
That's one heck of a girlfriend you've got there Paul - watch out or, next thing you know, she'll be out there using your new planer! :shock: :wink: Now she's seen what you've got out there, they'll be no end to the list of demands of jewellery boxes and other girlie things! :D

The first thing you should do is to check the knives are all seated correctly in the cutter block. Swing both tables up and out of the way and use the supplied jig - there should be a diagram in the manual.

Once you know they're all correct, you need to drop the outfeed table back down and check that it is flush with the blades (or a tiny fraction lower, as some people prefer) across the whole width.

Assuming that's okay - these things are "factory set"; most people don't seem to have any trouble - you need a 1m straightedge to run across the full length of both tables and look to see that there are no gaps of light underneath. It should touch on four 'points' - front and back of each table and be equal across the width of the machine.

If you find that something's not right and you're not sure how to adjust it, give me a shout. I don't think the manual's very clear on this at all.

As for a straightedge, you might be able to use a spirt level but it depends on the length and whether those black 'things' on the end are flush or slightly proud of the rest of the level. I personally went for one of these from Axminster. You're welcome to borrow it, of course. :)
 
thanks for the info olly, i'm heading out now to start checking it out
 

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