Quick Release Vices

[Bigus]

They are easy to get apart, at least so far. Pull the R-clip off the back of the yoke at far the end of the screw and the yoke is just (very loosely in engineering terms) pressed onto the end of the guide-bars and will tap off quite easily. Once that is done the guide bars and back jaw will separate from the front jaw. I can't from memory remember how much more is easy to get off. The guide rails are (properly) pressed into the lower jaw IIRC so they wont sensibly come apart but there's no real purpose in doing that anyway. I think the screw just pulls straight out once the yoke is off (could be wrong, it's been a while), and the QR mechanism is all bolted together so can be got apart.

OK thanks, that sounds pretty straightforward. I'll give it a go as it'll be nice to get the vices properly clean and serviceable.

 

[Bigus]

For lubrication once you've cleaned it up, the answer used to be oil. The trouble is, it can mix with sawdust and gum the mechanism up.

I now use a dry PTFE lubricant as sold for bike chains and gears. Finish line dry is the current choice but there are other brands too, available as a spray or bottle of liquid. You get a nice slippery surface and the dust won't stick to it..

Sounds good.. WD-40 do a dry PTFE lube, so ordered some of that

Thanks
Bigus

 

[Bigus]

+1 for the citric acid bath. When I restore an old plane for example, I follow the cleaning/repairing by putting the parts out in the sun to warm for an hour or so then smear the whole lot with lanolin (plentiful supply over here given the sheep population ). Once it's cooled, wipe off the excess. I've done this with numerous plane bodies and they've remained rust free for years. You can still use regular lubricant afterwards when necessary.

Is Lanolin not sticky? Sounds like useful stuff though, and sorts out those sore nipples too... errr

 

[wellywood]

+1 for the citric acid bath. When I restore an old plane for example, I follow the cleaning/repairing by putting the parts out in the sun to warm for an hour or so then smear the whole lot with lanolin (plentiful supply over here given the sheep population ). Once it's cooled, wipe off the excess. I've done this with numerous plane bodies and they've remained rust free for years. You can still use regular lubricant afterwards when necessary.

Is Lanolin not sticky? Sounds like useful stuff though, and sorts out those sore nipples too... errr

It's not sticky once you've wiped off the excess (think of waxing wood then buffing off). Heating the metal opens the pores and allows the lanolin to sink in. The metal bodied planes I've treated this way don't leave deposits of lanolin on the wood.
Sorry to hear about your sore nipples...

 

[n0legs]

Yes, but what about the vice? ;-)
Seriously though, that's a good deal. My vices were £25 & £32 but postage was a bit heavy on top. Rust used to put me off old tools but having read a number of web pages on rust removal (and citric acid) it seems most tool rust is fairly easy to sort out.

Be interested to see what "she" looks like once scrubbed up!

I know exactly what you mean about some of the postage charges and all the local ones I missed until this one came along.

Anyhow after a dunk in some solvent, a quick sand blasting, a coat of etch primer followed by a coat of high build primer and then 2 coats of the blue 2k (brushed on to get everywhere) then baked for 60 mins at 65c, the castings were finished.
Cleaned up everything else with roloc pads. Forgot to paint the quick release lever so I oil blued it instead (didn't fancy doing the screw this way so it is left bare). Assembled using some light grease and now she's bolted to my temporary bench
Need to make and fit some cheeks now, then I'm going to get something squeezed tightly into her :wink: :lol:

 

[Bigus]

Anyhow after a dunk in some solvent, a quick sand blasting, a coat of etch primer followed by a coat of high build primer and then 2 coats of the blue 2k (brushed on to get everywhere) then baked for 60 mins at 65c, the castings were finished.
Cleaned up everything else with roloc pads. Forgot to paint the quick release lever so I oil blued it instead (didn't fancy doing the screw this way so it is left bare). Assembled using some light grease and now she's bolted to my temporary bench
Need to make and fit some cheeks now, then I'm going to get something squeezed tightly into her :wink: :lol:

:lol:
Nice work. You've gone to some impressive lengths with her there and she is positively glowing!

Made a mental note about the 2k if I feel like going that fair (with the Parkinsons anyway, as the Record paint isn't too bad).

 

[Bigus]

+1 for the citric acid bath. When I restore an old plane for example, I follow the cleaning/repairing by putting the parts out in the sun to warm for an hour or so then smear the whole lot with lanolin (plentiful supply over here given the sheep population ). Once it's cooled, wipe off the excess. I've done this with numerous plane bodies and they've remained rust free for years. You can still use regular lubricant afterwards when necessary.

Is Lanolin not sticky? Sounds like useful stuff though, and sorts out those sore nipples too... errr

It's not sticky once you've wiped off the excess (think of waxing wood then buffing off). Heating the metal opens the pores and allows the lanolin to sink in. The metal bodied planes I've treated this way don't leave deposits of lanolin on the wood.
Sorry to hear about your sore nipples...

:lol:

I see, I hadn't realised the signficiance of the heating bit.

Thanks for the info