Quick Poll

[keithy1959]

I used loft panels for mine. By for the cheapest M2 price at the time, easy to get in the car, and I was working around a Defender in bits at the time, so easy to move into place.

 

[user22161]

I was going to use osb but found a load of second hand 1/2" ply, which had been used for lining ship's hold @ £10/sheet. Screwed slate lats vertically on dpc to single brick walls and then ply on those. No signs of damp or rust on tools.

 

[julianf]

I'm going to plaster board mine!

(And skim)

Mainly because I'm cheap.

 

[scholar]

I used some OSB3 as temporary garage doors 4 years ago (the actual doors are/were made and just need painting - it’s a long story).

Anyway, I slathered some white emulsion on the OSB (outside face only) and they are still absolutely fine, even though the 2/3rds leaf is sitting on the concrete kerb of the garage. I have been quite surprised how the material has held up. I may have put some end-grain sealer on the bottom, I don’t remember now.

Pretty sure at the time the OSB was cheaper than plywood, although now who knows?

Cheers

 

[Oraclebhoy]

I am going to buck the trend and say neither. All my sheds are lined with 18mm 8x2 chipboard T&G flooring sheets, waterproof easy to work with, nice tight joints and a smooth finish. Cheaper too if you go to the right place and get a decent discount for quantity.

I’m glad you said that, I had thought about using it but wasn’t sure how good it would be.
Any good for holding French cleats?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Glue them to it.

 

[JimB]

I'm going to plaster board mine!

(And skim)

Mainly because I'm cheap.

I wondered about that. A year or two back I lined the bathroom with the plasterboard designed for wet areas and it was surprising cheap and easy to apply - after I bought my first electric screwdriver

 

[julianf]

I wondered about that. A year or two back I lined the bathroom with the plasterboard designed for wet areas and it was surprising cheap and easy to apply - after I bought my first electric screwdriver

The fancier impact drivers allow for user profiles with, I think, custom torque settings. You can imagine the beauty of using one of them on a large plasterboard job.

I'm still in two minds as to the plasterboard in the garage. I'm fairly careful but it's bound to get whacked at some point.

It's largely as I like the reflectiveness of it also, when painted Matt white.

But mainly as it's a fraction of the cost and easy to fit.

 

[Fergie 307]

Depends what you want. The chipboard has the advantage that it adds considerably to the overall strength and rigidity of the structure, which plasterboard wont. If you use the Torx flooring screws made for the job then you just drive them in with an electric screwdriver. They're not cheap but have a double gapped thread so they really clamp them down tight. If you really want it super strong then you can glue the sheets together, and to the framing. I haven't bothered with glue myself. The other good point is that being T&G on all sides you don't have to worry about cutting them to exactly match the spacing of your uprights. Just put them on horizontally and stagger each row like bricks. I have just painted the walls with a light grey floor paint, looks good and when the lathe flicks oil up the wall it just wipes off. Not sure what they cost now but I bought about a hundred in one go to do the floors in my extension, and the shed. Brought the price down to way under the cost of osb at the time.