Pva for Iron on veneering

[woodedtop]

First post here , so hi to everyone.
I have got myself some paper backed Cherry veneer and I am going to use the Iron on method to appy this to a pair of mdf speaker cabinets. I was going to use this PVA(diluted)
https://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-super-concentrate-pva-5ltr/989hpI wasn't sure this is the right pva , or should I be looking at pva glue... is it all the same stuff?
Thanks

 

[Cabinetman]

Somebody else will be along who really knows, but no you are up the wrong street completely I’m afraid.
PVA is not an iron on glue, I think you should be using veneers that have special rubbery type glue already applied to the back which when you iron it melts the glue and sticks the veneer. Ian
Unless of course it’s a method that I just haven’t heard of.

 

[woodedtop]

Thanks cabinetman,yes you can get pre glued veneer for iron on method but here is an old post of what I am talking about..
Iron-on PVA Veneering
Chris Knights post.

 

[dzj]

Somebody else will be along who really knows, but no you are up the wrong street completely I’m afraid.
PVA is not an iron on glue, I think you should be using veneers that have special rubbery type glue already applied to the back which when you iron it melts the glue and sticks the veneer. Ian
Unless of course it’s a method that I just haven’t heard of.

I've heard of it, but never tried it. I still use hide glue for jobs like this.
They use runofthemill PVA if I understood correctly.

 

[Cabinetman]

Well I stand corrected! I shall be very interested to see how this works, so come on let’s have an expert please. As I have a three dimensional sculpture in mind. Ian

 

[woodedtop]

Cheers djz.

 

[Doug71]

I know nothing about veneering but it did look like the guy from New Yorkshire Workshop used the iron on dry pva method making the turntable in this thread at about 9 mins in.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/anyone-got-13-grand-for-a-turntable.130728/

 

[Cabinetman]

I know nothing about veneering but it did look like the guy from New Yorkshire Workshop used the iron on dry pva method making the turntable in this thread at about 9 mins in.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/anyone-got-13-grand-for-a-turntable.130728/

Well I’m with you there Doug, it’s obviously I don’t know anything about veneeing either. So there you have it woodedtop, you’ve taught an old dogs a new trick today, thank you very much. Ian
In answer to your other question I’m not sure that’s the right sort of PVA it’s not so much a wood glue as a sealant used by builders. May as well get the right thing, I think I would experiment before messing up your veneer or your speaker cabinets though.

 

[novocaine]

Pva is pva. Only difference between that and your exuperantly priced titebond is the speical blend of erbs and spices added to play around with curing times and thickening agents.

Fot a fiver, reckon its worth a try on a bit of scrap.

Have to admit I've never seen the iron on method until the other day when someone was using an iron to joint t bits of veneer on a stave.

 

[Droogs]

That will do fine, especially as your ground will be mdf. Apply to both faces and leave to dry, then use a non steaming ironing at a lowish heat and away you go. It is exactly how edge banding is manufactured. Where it becomes iffy is if you are using "real" wood as the ground. This is due to the wood moving due to changes in humidity and this cause creep and can lead to the veneer spliting at a later date.

 

[woodedtop]

Doug, What a lovely job that guy did on that turntable,lovely veneer as well.
Cabinetman, I do have my doubts on that pva link I posted, that's why I posted here, I know Titebond as been used as well, but others have used pva

 

[woodedtop]

Good man Droogs, was hoping that would be grand....works out cheaper than Titebond also.
Iron-on PVA Veneering
Chris Knight also said to dilute pva as well and 2 coats on both veneer and mdf.
Cheers

 

[Droogs]

I don't dilute the PVA as if you get it too thin it will seep through to the front face of the veneer and interfere with any finish

 

[Adam W.]

I think I'll be quiet about the old fashioned way, as you'll all soon be getting cheesed off with me.

 

[Droogs]

I usually use the old way too

 

[TheTiddles]

The problem with that method is the PVA expands the wood and the iron dries it out again, having just stuck it to something that doesn’t want to move, so it can crack quite easily, same with the iron-on glue. I’m more of a wet PVA and vacuum bag person now but if I didn’t have them, I’d probably try hide glue

 

[JobandKnock]

I think I'd stick with glue film (which can be ironed on as it is a PUR type glue) or good old contact adhesive, partly because there is always a can of Evostik 528 in the van. Both long standing, proven methods of work.

Call me conservative, but I reckon that some PVAs, like the modern D4 waterproof ones, simply won't work with an iron. In fact I'm dubious that any cross-linked PVA (such as the older D3, "weather resistant" types as well as more recent D4s) would work with technique

 

[Droogs]

Contact adhesive is the absolute worst possible choice to apply a veneer with, within months you will have creep and splits (very big visible ones)

 

[recipio]

Glue film doesn't work for me. It might be the batch I'm using but it simply doesn't melt even under a hot iron. The heat isn't good for the veneers either and joints will shrink and open up under the heat. I now use Titebond cold press glue and stick to a homemade veneer press or a vacuum bag. If anybody knows of a source for a small quality veneer press please let me know.

 

[JobandKnock]

Contact adhesive is the absolute worst possible choice to apply a veneer with, within months you will have creep and splits (very big visible ones)

It sort of depends on the area and width in my experience. I wouldn't use contact adhesive for a large area, I would consider it for an edge banding or narrower strip.

As to no success with glue film I have to ask how old the film was. The glue can break down over time or with incorrect storage