Problems with finishing solid oak and walnut

[elandras]

Hi everyone,

I've been visiting this site for a while now and I think it's great! I'm really new to woodworking, but want to get into it more. So on to my problem.

Basically I am after a finish that feels like wood when you touch it ( a very smooth wood but not plastic like), and looks relatively Matt (not reflective). These pictures below are some furniture I've seen about that I really like the finish on.

The last one (the HM Desk) is a little bit shinier than the others but doesn't feel plastic like at all. What would be the best way to achieve these finishes (At this time I am not worried about resistance to water etc. as this will make another million permutations, I'm just looking from a pure aesthetic view at the moment. I will move to the complications as I gain experience.)

I've read the books for ages (Tauntons complete finishing guide etc.). But I just can't get that sort of finish. Mine always come up really shiny and glossy or feel like they are coated in a thick film of plastic!

For the record I am using danish oil and have experimented with slurry fills with 600 grit paper, shellac sealers and wax finishing. But always turns out similar to a degree.

Also if anyone knows a really good place to learn more about finishes that would be great.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[elandras]

Also I think I'm doing something wrong with the slurry fill, I put it on with the 600 grit then no matter how short a time I leave it, it's incredibly sticky and almost impossible to rub off without really pushing hard with the cloth and running lots. Is this normal or have I made a rookie error by only using a small amount of oil or something like that.

 

[Oryxdesign]

Have you tried Osmo Polyx?

 

[elandras]

No but I want the dark colour imparted by an oil. Unless I've made another mistake their.

 

[Oryxdesign]

It takes nicely to walnut and oak, try the satin one, it might do you its a wax/oil. I think the number is 3032 from memory.

 

[elandras]

Thanks, Ok I'll look into it, do I just replace the danish oil in my usual process. Seal -> Coat -> Slurry fill pores -> Coat -> Wax top coat. Or do I just use the Osmo alone. Will it be similar to the above finishes do you think?? Do you not think the Matt would be better?

 

[tekno.mage]

Personally, I would just use the Osmo Oil on it's own - apply two thin coats onto bare wood as instructed on the tin. I've used this finish on oak before and it brings out the grain and leaves a lovely satin-matt finish, however, used as instructed on the tin it does not fill the pores. I suppose you could use the slurry fill technique with it, it's slightly thicker than Danish Oil and I've found it takes longer to cure - I always leave 24 hours between coats - so you'd have longer to do the slurry filling part of the application. The most important thing I've found is to make sure you do wipe off the excess oil with a cloth to avoid leaving application marks on the finished surface.

 

[Oryxdesign]

Well I'm kinda guessing the look you're after but I would agree with Kym. If you do need to fill the pores more fit another coat after a fine finish with something like Webrax. If you get a finish that is too shiney remember you can knock it back, on the walnut you could use wire wool but don't use that on oak. You need to experiment really to see if it suits you, if you are near me you could drop in and I could maybe show you some techniques that might suit you.

 

[Harbo]

Another one for Osmo.

I have also had success with Sam Maloof's mixtures - use a matt or satin polyurethane varnish in the mix.
Again wipe off any excess. Finish off with his wax polish mix.
I have recently redone our kitchen table with it.

Rod

 

[elandras]

There's a lot of love for the OSMO stuff.

I'm going to try finishing it with the danish oil (as I bought lots) and cutting it back with the wire wool to take the shine off but it will always be plasticy. The OSMO stuff is so expensive. But i'll try and buy a small sample of the matt and satin to have a look.

 

[RogerM]

There's a lot of love for the OSMO stuff.

I'm going to try finishing it with the danish oil (as I bought lots) and cutting it back with the wire wool to take the shine off but it will always be plasticy. The OSMO stuff is so expensive. But i'll try and buy a small sample of the matt and satin to have a look.

Yes, the Osmo is pricey, but it's absolutely bullet proof. It's designed for oak flooring and a little goes a very long way. It's my finish of first choice these days. 2 coats with a single pass of worn 240 grit in between to denib it, and then 2 or 3 coats of furniture wax on top.

 

[NorthernWoodMan]

In answer to you main questions:

1) How to achieve the finish similar to the above and you are not worried about protection

You are looking for a very natural finish, you can achieve something similar with danish oil but it will always have some seen and coating as it is an oil/varnish mix. Also I think you shouldn't be filling the pores, you are after a natural finish. I don't think Osmo would work for you either, your just replacing one mix with another.

You can achieve the look with Tung oil and Beeswax. First thin some tung oil 50% and then liberally cover your surface (leave then wipe off), if you don't thin you will find the heartwood/sapwood accentuated. Then cover with some beeswax, you can improve this by mixing it with some tung and thinning too.

2) Your danish oil is shiny and plastic like, and dries too quickly.

It shouldn't be that bad. Your probably not putting enough on and wiping it off quick enough, flood the surface liberally, and then wipe off after 5 minutes. Sand between coats too (400 grit).

If you fill the pores, you must use lots of danish oil and sand with 600 grit for about 1 minute then leave for no more than 10 minutes.

Stop after 3/4 coats as afterwards you are probably just laying up the varnish.

 

[elandras]

Thanks for the advice!! I will try it that way and see what happens rather. I will buy a little sample pot of osmo to test since the opinion is split on it.