Problem with Woodrat Bits

[Philly]

Hi All
Thought I'd knock up a box on the weekend out of some scraps of maple. Decided to cut dovetails on my Littlerat but had a lot of trouble with the HSS router bits. The first bit snapped off after the second cut (and I was very gentle with it ) Quick re-think and used the next size bit. Didn't snap but some terrible burning. Not a nice relaxing session....... :lol:
The first bit had seen some use, the second was brand new. Both were sharp. So was the problem with the Maple being too hard or am I doing something wrong?
Cheers
Philly
(who was looking forward to knocking out a simple project)

 

[Waka]

Philly

Must be the maple, I can't believe his Phillness could do something wrong.

Why not try the bit with some maple on the router table and see what it comes out like.

 

[devonwoody]

Philly:
A bad weekend all round

I expect you had extra calories over the last month and as they say "you don't know your own strength"

Resort to a bit of hand chopping should solve the problem

 

[JFC]

I take it they where quater inch shank and not half inch :shock:
Ive had the same problem when trying to copy route with a quater inch bearing guided cutter and MDF when on site once . I went through 3 of them all brand new before i gave up .

 

[Adam]

Were you using them at maximum depth? E.g. was the neck at the top of the bit at the narrowest part at the top of the wood? If so, had you lowered them further so you were winding them through but their isn't a cutting edge in that position?

Doesn't he sell them in pairs as they are so fragile? I snapped one once (a larger one), and got a free replacament.

Adam

 

[Chris Knight]

Phil,
I have done what Adam mentions but in the router table - a slightly loose collet allowed the bit to slip out and cut deeper as vibration from the cutting affected it. The cut got harder to make until I could hardly push the wood through.

 

[AndyBoyd]

I use mine on maple, except the smallest ones (which are sold in pairs as they break) and all seems fine.

Henry recommends only using the smallest on the softest of hardwoods. Mike Humphrey recommended me not to buy the small bits from Henry as even in softwood they break.

Philly which bits were you using?

 

[AndyBoyd]

Another tip from Mike Humphrey I've just remebered is to hop the router over the wood, so only cut half way from both sides, it will be easier on the bit if you do this, and also avoids any breakout at the bit never exits the wood.

this may help Philly :?:

 

[devonwoody]

dont know anything abouts rats, but if the timber is hard, how about putting a 1/4" straight bit through to remove a lot of waste first and then use a dovetails cutter?

 

[AndyBoyd]

yup, good call devonwoody

 

[shirehorseman]

Hi all,

Philly.
I agree with DW.
I am not an expert like a lot of you, I am only a D-I-Y man. So I tend to overkill on the safety aspect, but like DW said, I use that Idea all the time as I only use 1/4" shank bits. It does make things a littlle slower and can be a BIT frustrating changing back and forth I agree but it does save a lot of strain on the cutters. And I do get there in the end.
Regards.
Trev.

 

[SketchUp Guru]

I recently saw Mike Humphrey's technique of starting the cut on one side and then coming in and finishing the cut from the other. Seems like a good idea although I haven't had an opportunity to try it.

I've never had a WoodRat bit break. I tend to start the cut and back out to clear chips and come back in. Depending upon the thickness of the stock, I may do that twice or three times. Seems to work for me anyway.

 

[Philly]

Thanks for all the helpful replies!
The bit was a Woodrat 8mm shank HSS 12mm 7degree. I've used it previously on poplar and sycamore with no problems. Didn't have the bit fully depthed out as the sides were only just 10mm thick. I also did the "hop" thing, cutting mostly from front to back as the bit was really "moving" the wood and I was afraid it would be knocked loose. :?
I think it must of been the Maple-it is some birds eye stuff I've had lying around. Real tough. If I hadn't spent the holiday period stuffing my boozy face I would of got the dovetail saw out but I REALLY need practise and this box project was just to "whet my appetite" :lol:
Cheers
Philly
Who was wearing eye, ear and lung protection

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Philly, you said the wood was moving? Is it possible the wood moved and bound up on the bit?

 

[MikeW]

Hi Phil,

I have yet to snap one, though I did ruin one of the large straight bits routing Pine of all things [no knots].

When I cut thin material with the Rat, I remove any of the shims that raise the guide off of the extrusion so the wood sits lower into the clamp. I also batch cut thin parts to avoid the wood flexing. And I always use a diamond hone on the cutters before use...

Pardon if none of this applies.

Take care, Mike
who now most certainly will snap a bit...

 

[Adam]

Yep, the wood moving is another option. Do you have any abrasive grip on the either sides of the clamp faces?

Adam

 

[Philly]

Sorry-should of said. I had both sides clamped together to cut the tails. It moving wasn't the case-the bit got just over half way through and snapped off. I only noticed because I could see the head of the bit not moving!! :lol:
Here's a pic of the offending timber pre-router bit destruction...

The second (next size Woodrat bit up, 14mm) bit I used was brand new but still burnt the timber something rotten, even though I tried changing my rate of feed (without snapping the head off as per the previous victim).
I decided to go with mitres as opposed to dovetails-kinda put the dampers on my pep-up project mood. :twisted: Here's a w.i.p. shot to give you a taste.....

Cheers
Philly