Premade Drawer Boxes

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Tony - thanks for the offer. I don't intend to make these drawers for a couple of months yet, but if the offer is still available by then, I may you take you up on that, thanks!

Scrit, Dom, Charley, Jason etc.. thanks for all the advice, I guess with the number of drawers I have to do; 20+ i'll need to start thinking in terms of workflow and batch processing to make it a painless task.

Jason, when you say 'this is how I make them' - do you mean with pocket screws, or the lock-drawer joint?

Scrit, these will probably be made out of 15mm or 18mm ply, with 6mm bottoms. Due to the material and it's want for splintering, i'm not sure a rebate plane would be an option for this?? Not tried to plough/rebate into ply before.

If I were to try and do the lock drawer joint with a single straight router bit, is there a certain procedure I would have to follow - I can't visualise it in my mind at the moment, probably because i'm clouded with the one-cut operation of the specific lock-drawer cutter.

Thanks everyone, some good info there!

Just thought of another decision I need to make, incorporate separate fronts, or not? Any impact on the methods recommended so far?
 
BB i just rip the sides , front and back the same size . Screw and glue them together with butt joints and rebate the bottom out to take a 12mm (18mm if its a big draw) base screwed and glued . Fit the draw runners and then line up the draw front . Depends what you are making i suppose as to how you make things , i wouldn't do this on an oak dresser but then your not making an oak dresser are you ?
 
Scrit":1geyvi1r said:
DomValente wrote:
Don't really see how you could use pocket screws and make the drawers strong enough

Providing the butted surfaces and the bottom are all glued in they will suffice for many domestic loads, Dom - our 'murrican cousins do use them (although personally I wouldn't normally use the technique); they have the front/rear inside the sides as opposed to the way we do it, presumably so that the screws are loaded when the drawers are opened and also to hide them from view when the drawer is extended.

Thats the way I make ply drawers (12mm) that are going to have a plant on face. Gives you a clean side and I would say that they are more than strong enough. I've had no call backs for repair.

Cheers

Tim
 

Latest posts

Back
Top