Precision router joinery jig

[Anonymous]

Devonwoody,

The length of the tenon that can be cut on my jig will depend on the cutting length of the bit that you are using, and on how deep your router can plunge. If you have a router like the Triton, which can plunge its collet below its baseplate, you will be able to cut a longer tenon than on many other routers that cannot do that.

It should not be necessary to pare down the thickness of a tenon cut on my jig, assuming that you are using stock of a consistent thickness. The procedure is to cut a trial tenon on a piece of scrap of identical thickness to the stock that you are using, and measure the trial tenon's thickness with a caliper. If, for example your mortice thickness is 8 mm, but your trial tenon is 9 mm thick, then you adjust the fence position by half of the difference, i.e. by 0.5 mm, so that the bit cuts another 0.5 mm from each cheek of the tenon.

Rockerau

 

[devonwoody]

Hi Rocker

Do you have to fix a backing piece to avoid tear out making tenons this way?

P.S. By the way the wife wants another two planters

 

[Anonymous]

Devonwoody,
So long as you cut the shoulders of the tenons first on the table saw, you should not have any tearout problems using my jig for tenoning. However, if you have a number of tenons to cut, it is better to use a table-saw tenoning jig. See

http://community.webshots.com/photo/143 ... 9334tINaLw

I am e-mailing you a copy of my jig article, so that you will have details of my joinery jig.

Rockerau

 

[devonwoody]

Thank you Rocker for saw tenoning jig picture.
I have just finished 4 planters and 64 M/T joints, but have another two planters coming up so I am most probably going to try your jig set up before I start again.

 

[Anonymous]

I have moved the pictures and exploded diagram of this jig to the Yahoo site, which is presumable free of viruses. They can be found at

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dldund ... as,8%3af,0

Rockerau