Power feed

[Corset]

I am really sorry to ask for help again. I am lacking some basic knowledge. I am setting up my shaper and powerfeed and i have a few questions.
1. I have a hammer b3 saw spindle with a maggis stef 2033 powerfeed. Where do the three wheels go in terms of alignment with the spindle. Do i have one wheel in front of the spindle and one on line or two behind the spindle on the out feed.
2. When i run my straight edge along the shaper fence it seems to be square but when running timber through it catchs on the outfeed fence. Not good (good thing I had power feeder). When i run the powerfeed with timber the power feeder is pulling the wood a couple of mm away from the infeed fence. Not sure why help appreciated.
3. How do I attach wooden fences as i wish to get away from just using the metal fences. Do i have to tap the fence or drill through or am i missing something obvious.
ANy ideas appreciated.
Owen

 

[JonnyD]

Hi i setup the powerfeed with one wheel in front and one behind. I have some 25mm plywood screwed onto my cast iron fence from behind. Sacrificial fences can then just be screwed onto the plywood. The feeder is usually set up so that it is leaning in towards the fence slightly so that the material being fed is kept close up to the fence.

jon

 

[markymark12]

Hi

I always set mine with more going in than out making sure that at least two are in contact before it begins to cut, otherwise i find when the next wheel comes on, the extra applied pressure causes a very slight delay and depression in the cut, it's very minor but if you go with 2 wheels on then the cut and then one of, it can be avoided.
I use a masterwood 4 wheel feeder so i set it up by placing a piece of what ever material i am machining on the bed under the feeder, but not the feeder wheels, lowering the feeder until it is parallel, and then lowering it another 3/8" or so. much depends on the feeder spec its self and the travel of the wheel, it should tell you in the instructions.
Then as the previous reply mentions you need to toe the feeder into the fence so it is always trying in affect to push the timber through the cheeks themselves if that makes sense.
If looking in plan [over the top] the outfeed side of the feeder would be angled so it is around 1/2" further in towards the outfeed fence.
As for clipping the outfeed fence, it is almost always happens. The only way to go if you want to avoid this and it is better pratice anyway is to make up the false fences and after setting your height break through the sacrificial fences to give the required depth of cut. In a health and safety way of course :wink: . Maybe full body armour and 5 courses at £100 a time. :wink: so you can not sue anyone me included these days :roll: just use common sense.
The same pratice applies if you rotate it and have it feeding against the fence. just give it a small inclination to the bed, be warned however if your feeder allows you to reverse the feed never do this whilst cutting as it will draw away from the fence very quickly and ruin your work, i know i have done it myself a couple of times over the years.
It all sounds a bit complicated but in fact it is very easy, if you are unfamiliar with it then just set it up as above and run a test piece,
And get to know it before putting that last piece of wood you have through.
Hope that all helps you
Mark

 

[Corset]

Thankyou for that. It is difficult to get any information on what is the norm, I think because it is mainly industry use rather than hobby the information is not on the web so much. I think making some sacrificial fences is the way forward.
I will just have to make some holes in the fence. :x
Owen

 

[ProShop]

Thankyou for that. It is difficult to get any information on what is the norm, I think because it is mainly industry use rather than hobby the information is not on the web so much. I think making some sacrificial fences is the way forward.
I will just have to make some holes in the fence. :x
Owen

The maggi power feeder has 2 rollers close together and there should be a larger gap and then the 3rd roller, the large gap sits right opposite the cutter block to allow the cutter block some room as the feeder is virtually up against the fence except for about 8mm to 10mm. The feeder then should be set with a toe in of about 3mm to 5mm at the outfeed side (depending on how grippy the wheels are) and should be horizontally level so all the rollers are applying equal pressure on the workpiece. The same applies when the feeder is face plate feeding.
I posted some pics a while back on the forum somewhere.

I have the Felder shaper, but doesn,t the Hammer have a vernier or other means of adjustment to align the fences on the outfeed side?? this would eliminate the workpiece catching as the timber passes through?.

As to wooden fences, just make an exact copy, but in wood either hardwood or thick ply, I'm not sure why you would want to replace the originals though ?.

Hope this helps