Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Strops?
Post a pic of something you have recycled
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Johnwa
Established Member
Don't mention sharpening, you'll start em off again!
Keith 66
Established Member
Heres a bar i made for our yacht club's centenary bash last saturday (10th), Recycled stainless steel kitchen unit frames, mdf out of a skip, secondhand scaffold board top & a worn out damaged grp rowing skiff that was to be cut up.
Took me about 4 days to knock it together & paint it up. Came out pretty well!
Took me about 4 days to knock it together & paint it up. Came out pretty well!
Jameshow
Established Member
Nice!
Ready for Pimm's o'clock!!
Keith 66
Established Member
Pimms? Two barrels of East coast Ipa, two barrels of lager & a barrel of Aspalls cider went across her deck that day, lot of sore heads the next day.
Jameshow
Established Member
Southwold?!!
Keith 66
Established Member
No unfortunately, Greene king, outside bar had keg beer on.
Table, combining the (reshaped) legs from one table with the top of another table. All solid oak, finished with Osmo. The table will be stored in the garage during winter. To this end, the legs are removable - they are held in place with two wedges that are visible in the close up picture. This works better than my first try which yielded an unstable table.
Buying furniture second-hand is a great way to obtain wood for a small price here - typically less than €25 for a piece.
Buying furniture second-hand is a great way to obtain wood for a small price here - typically less than €25 for a piece.
I've shown this in another post. Two mallets made from Green Bowls from a car-boot and Ash handles from the blokes' tree across the road.
Gorgeous
that Ash looks very white, have you coloured it?It is quite white especially when you compare it to my Ash bowl on the Last Thing You Turned post. They are from different Ash trees. Maybe they are different Ash types.Gorgeous
Eshmiel
Established Member
Very nice. Very nice indeed!
Just lately I've set out on the road to carving things; but also taken up an afternoon doing indoor bowling with a gaggle of other olepharts. That Chris Pye, who I've adopted as me on-line teacher since he's made all his vids free to watch, mentions his preference for a mallet such as those you've made. In looking for some second-hand bowls for me oldphart-bowling afternoons, I noticed various lignum vitae items on e-bay, usually £50 - £80 a pair.
So, I'd like to get a lower-cost, more-knackered pair to make my own lig-vit mallets. Would you be willing to post a bit more here about your process of making them, especially the how-to of orienting the grain to get the best out of a bowl?
The Bowls were a pair made in Accrington where I understand, years ago, most UK Bowls and snooker balls were made. I bought this pair for £5 at a car boot but on most occasions, they go for £10-£20 a pair. I removed the two plastic inserts from each bowl to find a nice convenient centre point which was probably made when the bowl was originally turned which auto-determined the correct orientation of the head for a mallet. It was easy enough then to turn them between centres. I took references from photographs on the internet for the shapes. I made a slip on the first one which ruined the pattern I was trying to preserve so turned it away. I managed to preserve the pattern on the second one. Also on the second one, I remembered to make a flat end to stand the head upright on the pillar drill. The hole matches the diameter of the disk hole (some imperial measurements). Because I was drilling into the end grain, the hole was producing dust instead of shavings. I collected the dust into a pot for interesting filler for my fruit bowl cracks and holes. The old finish was shellac-based so easily removed. I finished the mallet with mineral oil. I drilled the through hole to match the disk hole The Ash handles were straightforward and finished by burnishing with shavings and a coat of oil. I also took references for these from photographs. I cut a split in the end, inserted it into the head then inserted a thin Ebony wedge. I'm sure this is the first time I've turned Lignum Vitae. It felt similar to turning Teak.
Eshmiel
Established Member
Perfeek! Thank you very much - I'll acquire a pair of those to have a go at. I'll need to borrow a lathe-use somewhere as I have no room for one. ...... Well ...... maybe a small benchtopper that can live in a cupboard when not in use. (Glances over shoulder to see if wife is spying on me typing this).
£5 at a car boot would be good but I doubt there's such a thing within 40 miles around where I live; and maybe once a year. But if we go modern and reduce the matter to cash costs, even two for £50 fron e-bay would make two very nice mallets that commercially would probably cost £75 each or up. Not that I'd be marketing any I manage to make. One for me and one to a friend. She'll get the first one I made the errors on when practicing.
Sauna in the garden built out of a lot of FREE things:
Made one good shed out of the two knackered ones using all the timber we could, including the shiplap, roof etc. Had to replace sole plates with proper treated timber and likewise patch various bits that were shot in both sheds. base of 9 tonnes of reclaimed type 1, pads were reclaimed concrete pavers, though a new sub-frame had to be built along with a proper floor of waterproof T&G MR Caberfloor P5. A further subfloor of 18mm ply was needed in the sauna area to support the tiling.
Internal subfloor & studwork built, windows installed, ripped out old plastic sheets & installed new uPCV windows horizontally rather that vertically (which is what they were originally designed for), trimmed patio door frame and then installed that horizontally too, tiled sauna area floor with non-slip tiles, installed 50mm rockwool insulation throughout (recovered from another project) and vapour barrier, then panelled the sauna with new (expensive) Linden t&g - the panelling was a very tedious process as there are 100s of pieces to cut precisely then secret-nail with special clips. Non-sauna areas all insulated mainly with rockwool and then panelled with 6mm ply. The DeWalt compound saw was an absolute life-saver for the sauna panelling.
Door to sauna was our old freezer door: I made up & welded a steel frame then had that powder coated to stop it rotting in the heat & steam, and hung the door. About half the shed is sauna - the rest is just carpet tiled cand can be a garden office etc.
Electrics was a bit of a nightmare as the sauna is 100mtrs from the utility input and takes between 9 & 11kW, so had to hire a trench slotter and do a lot of electrical work to get the earthing etc right - checked signed off by an authorised sparky - the regs around saunas are quite involved. Along with the SWA in the trench, I ran a blue water pipe and a conduit for cabling, including ethernet, so that we have WiFi etc. in the sauna.
We use it about twice a week and it costs approx £5 a time - 1 hour to heat up and then 1 hour in the sauna, however for the time spent in the sauna the heater is probably only on 25% - 30% of the time.
The sauna faces North - in the winter, you can sit in the sauna with the double-doors to the shed open and look at the view which goes 25 miles to the North Downs...
- Two fairly knackered/rotten sheds from local girl's grammar that were used to keep pets in...
- Two NEW uPVC windows rescued from a skip - rejected by customer as wrong size. Asked nicely and were given to us
- Large hardwood-framed patio door with toughened double glazing. Rescued as per "2" above
- Insulation recovered from other projects
- Freezer door & hinges from our old Zanussi
- ...and lots of other bits like salvaged bulkhead lights etc.
Made one good shed out of the two knackered ones using all the timber we could, including the shiplap, roof etc. Had to replace sole plates with proper treated timber and likewise patch various bits that were shot in both sheds. base of 9 tonnes of reclaimed type 1, pads were reclaimed concrete pavers, though a new sub-frame had to be built along with a proper floor of waterproof T&G MR Caberfloor P5. A further subfloor of 18mm ply was needed in the sauna area to support the tiling.
Internal subfloor & studwork built, windows installed, ripped out old plastic sheets & installed new uPCV windows horizontally rather that vertically (which is what they were originally designed for), trimmed patio door frame and then installed that horizontally too, tiled sauna area floor with non-slip tiles, installed 50mm rockwool insulation throughout (recovered from another project) and vapour barrier, then panelled the sauna with new (expensive) Linden t&g - the panelling was a very tedious process as there are 100s of pieces to cut precisely then secret-nail with special clips. Non-sauna areas all insulated mainly with rockwool and then panelled with 6mm ply. The DeWalt compound saw was an absolute life-saver for the sauna panelling.
Door to sauna was our old freezer door: I made up & welded a steel frame then had that powder coated to stop it rotting in the heat & steam, and hung the door. About half the shed is sauna - the rest is just carpet tiled cand can be a garden office etc.
Electrics was a bit of a nightmare as the sauna is 100mtrs from the utility input and takes between 9 & 11kW, so had to hire a trench slotter and do a lot of electrical work to get the earthing etc right - checked signed off by an authorised sparky - the regs around saunas are quite involved. Along with the SWA in the trench, I ran a blue water pipe and a conduit for cabling, including ethernet, so that we have WiFi etc. in the sauna.
We use it about twice a week and it costs approx £5 a time - 1 hour to heat up and then 1 hour in the sauna, however for the time spent in the sauna the heater is probably only on 25% - 30% of the time.
The sauna faces North - in the winter, you can sit in the sauna with the double-doors to the shed open and look at the view which goes 25 miles to the North Downs...
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