Post a photo of the last thing you turned (!)

[Tris]

Thank you, it was fun to do and as a full time gardener, something I'll be using a lot.

Most of the better quality handles are riveted so I thought I'd follow that method.
When I have to make another I will make a better jig for steam bending rather than try to clamp two surfaces that aren't parallel. #-o

 

[Chris152]

A new shape to me. I turned the foot and the initial part of the bowl using the large-bowl extension on the banjo but was getting some vibration, so rotated the head to nearer the spindle position and carried on at a different angle. I really like the shoulder that appeared as I removed from the side of the bowl and kept it.

I'm going to try some taller versions - the tricky bit for me is the inside which has steep sides (compared to what I'm used to) and rounds sharply into the base (I didn't even try following the outside profile on the inside).

 

[Chris152]

Beech, finished with grape seed oil. I didn't notice the bruising on the rim til I saw the photo, so might put it back on to be rid of that.

I saw Chas's piece with hard wax oil in another thread and thought it could look great on this - will that oil work as well on top of the grapeseed oil I've already put on this or have a blown my chances of getting such a high-gloss finish?

 

[Dalboy]

Beech, finished with grape seed oil. I didn't notice the bruising on the rim til I saw the photo, so might put it back on to be rid of that.

I saw Chas's piece with hard wax oil in another thread and thought it could look great on this - will that oil work as well on top of the grapeseed oil I've already put on this or have a blown my chances of getting such a high-gloss finish?

It is surprising what can be missed until a photo is taken. Looks pretty good from here. The shape will develop over time.

Why are you using the extension on a smallish piece?

 

[Chris152]

Thanks Derek - but how did you know I was using the extension?! :shock: You're quite right, tho.
A few reasons:
1. it's a lot of work shifting from extension to no extension on my lathe and I do more needing it than not;
2. vibration was annoying me when using the extension since I moved the lathe to a new location and I really wanted to get it sorted (I think it is now, more or less - I'd blame the bruising in this one on bad workmanship); and
3. I've had to set up lights so I can see properly, and I set them up for use with the extension - when I turn the head toward the bed, I'm working in my own light.
And - 4. Most of the turning I've done since I got the lathe has been needed the extension and I now find it awkward to turn over the bed (actually, bars on mine) - mainly because they get in the way of the handle of the gouge if I try to cut steep sides (which I generally try to avoid doing because I'm not good at it!).

I think the long-term solution might well be a free-standing tool rest. annoyingly, there is one in the workshop but its lowest setting is too high for mine, and it's not mine to cut down...

edit = sorry for rambling answer, but I've been struggling with the lathe/ extension the last week or so and your question hit the nail on the head!

 

[CHJ]

I think the long-term solution might well be a free-standing tool rest. annoyingly, there is one in the workshop but its lowest setting is too high for mine, and it's not mine to cut down...

Does your lathe reverse?
Can you turn internally with the Gouge 'wrong handed'

Just a thought as it sometimes makes it easier to work on the internals.

Alternate if the lathe does reverse and you can't master the 'awkward' tool handling is to use a sharp round nosed scraper to work on the internals. Means you can stand 'straight on' to the lathe.

edit = sorry for rambling answer, but I've been struggling with the lathe/ extension the last week or so and your question hit the nail on the head!

Ramblings on topic side lines often throw up a load of answers that were failing to surface.

 

[Chris152]

Unfortunately, no reverse option! I think I'm ok for the moment in that the extension seems stable, but I find the lathe a bit like a complex string instrument - if something's out of balance, it starts creating its own vibrations. (I know next to nothing about string instruments, so the comparison might be nonsense. )

 

[Dalboy]

Thanks Derek - but how did you know I was using the extension?! :shock: You're quite right, tho.
A few reasons:
1. it's a lot of work shifting from extension to no extension on my lathe and I do more needing it than not;
2. vibration was annoying me when using the extension since I moved the lathe to a new location and I really wanted to get it sorted (I think it is now, more or less - I'd blame the bruising in this one on bad workmanship); and
3. I've had to set up lights so I can see properly, and I set them up for use with the extension - when I turn the head toward the bed, I'm working in my own light.
And - 4. Most of the turning I've done since I got the lathe has been needed the extension and I now find it awkward to turn over the bed (actually, bars on mine) - mainly because they get in the way of the handle of the gouge if I try to cut steep sides (which I generally try to avoid doing because I'm not good at it!).

I think the long-term solution might well be a free-standing tool rest. annoyingly, there is one in the workshop but its lowest setting is too high for mine, and it's not mine to cut down...

edit = sorry for rambling answer, but I've been struggling with the lathe/ extension the last week or so and your question hit the nail on the head!

I have a lathe that the head can be swivelled and if I want to turn it I only do so for a small amount so that I am turning away from the bed but I only ever turn it enough so that I use the tool rest without having to resort to using the outboard tool rest. This allows me to use longer tools as well as make it easier to allow me to turn hollow forms.

What extension are you using

 

[woodbloke66]

Lazy Susan, finished this morning, which proved 'difficult' :evil: and time consuming to make.

The inlay is a random geometric confection of all sorts of different timbers that I've accumulated and include the root of a Laurier Canelle tree, an extinct wood from St. Lucia which forms the main 'X' in the centre. Also around the rim are inlaid Bog Oak, Ebony, Walnut, Holly, Rosewood, Haze (the yellow stuff) from Japan and Bog Yew. The main body is turned from English Oak and has a diameter of 430mm, so it had to be turned in reverse on the lathe as the tool rest wouldn't reach once the headstock had been swung through 90deg. The inlaid circular rim is in English Walnut. As it's going to be in daily use, it's been finished with three coats of Osmo satin with Renaissance Wax over the top - Rob

 

[Treveansalt]

I'm very new to wood turning! Go easy (third bowl) old bit of mahogany..it wasn't meant to but somehow I made a 70s nut bowl that wouldn't look out of place on some Gplan furniture....

 

[Treveansalt]

ARG can I not use Google photos links!? Sorry... Couldn't figure how to upload a photo

 

[CHJ]

David, you can't link to off site url's until you have made several posts.
You can upload (attach) images without number of posts restrictions.

The Dynamic Links you provided are not viable.

Dynamic Link not found
If you are the developer of this app, ensure that your Dynamic Links domain is correctly configured and that the path component of this URL is valid.

 

[Treveansalt]

Thanks chj. I read through the guide and edited my post.

 

[Yosarian]

Some rattles for the little one. Iroko and black walnut.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[CHJ]

Extreme caution with Iroko, It can cause severe reactions.

I personally would not let a small child in a workshop that's working it let alone allow them to play with it.

If they develop a reaction it may make them sensitive to many other woods for the rest of their life.

See the Reasons and wood lists Links in the Turning Section Help and Safety thread

 

[Yosarian]

Extreme caution with Iroko, It can cause severe reactions.

I personally would not let a small child in a workshop that's working it let alone allow them to play with it.

If they develop a reaction it may make them sensitive to many other woods for the rest of their life.

See the Reasons and wood lists Links in the Turning Section Help and Safety thread

Thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[Dalboy]

I will also add to what CHJ has stated. If you intend to let them as rattles the ends need to be a certain diameter. I have a PDF which the site will not allow me to post that will give the sizes.
Take into consideration the finish that you use on them if any.
We are not trying to put you off but rather trying to make it safe for you and the child.
When I have made rattles in the past they have been keepsakes rather than usable items, but if I was to make for use by a child I would go for safe woods like beech and for the rattle noise I have used ceramic baking beans.

Lets try this for the rattle info Rattle Guidelines

 

[Yosarian]

Thanks. I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".

What other woods are considered safe? I note from the toxicity table beech is a sensitizer, can cause nausea, can cause irritation in eyes, skin, the respiratory system, dermatitis, decrease in lung function, eye irritation and nasal cancer.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[Chris152]

What other woods are considered safe? I note from the toxicity table beech is a sensitizer, can cause nausea, can cause irritation in eyes, skin, the respiratory system, dermatitis, decrease in lung function, eye irritation and nasal cancer.

Maybe have a look at this thread:
post1257718.html#p1257718
The uncertainty is caused by charts being non-specific about the state of the wood - if you look for the links Chas posted in that thread, you get a much better idea of the conditions under which particular woods can be harmful/ toxic. (So, for example (as I understand it) beech can cause nasal cancer if you keep inhaling the dust when working the wood.)

 

[Yosarian]

Interesting, thanks. Well, wood dust from any wood isn't a good thing to be inhaling.

According to that table, oak (for example) would seem a better choice than beech (rare incidence rather than common), have I got that right?

There is some suggestion in that thread about beech being safe as it is used for cooking implements. On the other hand, Iroko seems a popular choice for kitchen worktops (along with oak), so I don't know where that leaves us.

Sorry if this is going off the threads intended topic, but I am learning a lot.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk