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This was an interesting exercise as I couldn’t sand any of the external faces where I wanted to retain the original finish. Nor would reinforcing splines be suitable so I hope the mitre joints are well glued!
I meant to add that I left all fresh wood faces unfinished as I thought that was the best contrast to the old.
 
The design council and I are celebrating our wedding anniversary at the weekend and the council had asked a while back for "a box to fill the gap under the TV".

So I've gone rouge and built something without council approval as a surprise.

A keepsake box for all the bits we collect from the things we do together, have put in some bits from our honeymoon that I've kept. Expecting tears, hopefully not because the council thinks the box "doesn't complement the aesthetic of the Next TV unit"

Oak and walnut.
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Hello , that is very nice unit. I would like to make a similar unit , I have a bit of experience in making some basic projects like work bench and tool holder , are you able to share the construction details with me to give me a better idea how to make my own unit? Thanks.
Hi, so the way I've constructed it is using 18mm birch plywood panels connected with dominos. The top and middle shelves are between the two side panels, while the bottom panel is underneath the side panels.

It's a relatively simple construction, which you could also probably do with some other connectors like biscuits or dowels.

Some considerations:
- I have 3 back panels for stiffness, at the bottom, behind the drawers, and at the top.
- I have used solid wood lipping front and back for each of the three shelves. Since my unit is about 100cm wide, this was essential to provide stiffness and prevent racking. If you're making a less wide unit, then this might not be necessary.

Hope that helps!

Edit: found my old drawings of the dimensions, might be useful:
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3/4” skew rabbet/rebate plane made with the skew floats I made last week.

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Made using a 3d printed template system I created. One template for each side plus a little circular template to locate the forstner bit for the hole that turns into the escapement.



plus also a 3d printed jig for use with the shooting board to make skew wedges.

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Working pretty well… needs finish and a bit more fettling but it will soon be my go to rabbet plane I reckon.

 
New approach to an old craft but the results look great. Good to see the floats are earning their keep too.
Regards
John
Thanks John - funnily enough it wasn’t my idea really. The came from the 1962 video on YouTube showing Norman Bayliss, Marples’ last plane maker, using a very similar template to make moulding planes. Obviously his was not 3d printed. But you can imagine that a historical plane manufacturer wanted all their planes that leave the factory to be consistent, and this is one way they did it.
 
Thanks John - funnily enough it wasn’t my idea really. The came from the 1962 video on YouTube showing Norman Bayliss, Marples’ last plane maker, using a very similar template to make moulding planes. Obviously his was not 3d printed. But you can imagine that a historical plane manufacturer wanted all their planes that leave the factory to be consistent, and this is one way they did it.
I had a feeling the old guys would have used templates for bits of the work but it was the 3d printing bit you are doing that I was referring to. Brings it into the modern age.
Regards
John
 
A modest effort compared to some of the brilliant work showcased recently, but here's my latest litle project.

A fruitless effort to organise the clutter drawer under the hob. 3mm ply which IIRC was packing material for an order of veneered MDF circa 20 years ago.
 

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A small square. I really don't need any more squares: I've got loads of them. Nevertheless I thought it would be a quick and interesting project. I had never cut a bridle joint before and this seemed like a perfectly reasonable project to try one out on. I'm very happy to say that it appears to be square (based on the draw a line and flip it test).
 
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