Thanks, it was intentionally formed - when I started to plane it I noticed a badly positioned split, rather than cut it flat I decided to make it into a feature of the piece.Nice. Very unique. Is the curve natural, or intentionally formed?
Love the ink well. Very nice touchOak and Wild Service desk I made for my daughter, still needs a couple more coats of finish and I can't make my mind up if the drawer needs a handle or not? What do people think?
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Been there done thatWe have all been there with broken drilles/screws. I have cut the heat off a scre and super glued it to the hinge to cover up my misshap.
That is handsome. The recipient will treasure it.Small memory box out of Tiger Striped Oak and Beech for the sides.
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CoolSmall memory box out of Tiger Striped Oak and Beech for the sides.
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Good idea, I should try itWe have all been there with broken drilles/screws. I have cut the heat off a scre and super glued it to the hinge to cover up my misshap.
no handle nice clean lines as it is FWIWOak and Wild Service desk I made for my daughter, still needs a couple more coats of finish and I can't make my mind up if the drawer needs a handle or not? What do people think?
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There is a great satisfaction doing things with hand tools. The more you do it the easier it gets.A couple of years ago we moved into our new home. The developers were still building other houses and chatting to the foreman one day I asked what they did with their waste wood. Next day I find a load of construction timber on the drive. Mostly 4.8m lengths of 6x2 and 8x2. All a bit manky, soaking wet and full of small grit and site dust. Not really knowing what to do with it, I chucked it all in the garage.
Eventually I had to do something with it, so found plans online for a garden chair. This is the result from some of the lengths. A bit agricultural and not yet finally finished. Its not a looker! But what I'm most pleased with is I made it entirely by hand, only power tool was the sander. Now I can finally say I can square an edge with a plane and saw a reasonably accurate straight line, and ripping and resawing with a hand saw ain't so bad, if not a little time consuming!
Not quite a silk purse, but certainly started out as a pig's ear
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As spalted wood is sometimes a bit soft in parts, would clear penetrating epoxy be an option? It needs UV protection I recall but makes a good base for yacht varnish. The ultimate varnish would be a 2 part product, if you don't like a high gloss it can be knocked back with fine wire wool. An expensive option but you aren't doing a huge area.I am putting this spalted beech top on an old sewing machine base. My wife will use her sewing machine on it so I am wondering about the best finish. It can’t be anything that might leave residue on material and needs to be tough enough for light bashes like dropping scissors etc. I think polyurethane varnish would do this, but it often yellows timber. I have thought about Osmo but have never used it. Any other options or advice would be appreciated please?
What did you do joint wise?A model for a course I'm doing. Working out all of the angles from drawings on paper. They're starting to look a bit nicer now so I'll start uploading them even though I'm not doing anything with them. This one has gone to my dad who will stick a top on it and use it as a table. It's reciprocating so the same cross and lip cuts repeated for 4 in total. Glue up was very stressful
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It is rippled sycamore. I had a fair bit more but wasted it by not checking measures and building an entire model wrong. Big mistake but it looks lovely and I'll be on the hunt for some more when I have spaceVery nice Harry, is that flamed maple?
Because it's a model all I did was half lap joints where the crosses meet. When this stage is over I'll redo (with slight changes) several of the models but with some more challenging jointing. I am rushed for time so can't spend extra on details like that for nowWhat did you do joint wise?
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