Beautiful qualityMade myself a Paul Sellers router plane. Had a piece of beech I'd earmarked for this kicking around for over a year. Finally pulled my finger out over the weekend and got it done.
View attachment 176618
Beautiful qualityMade myself a Paul Sellers router plane. Had a piece of beech I'd earmarked for this kicking around for over a year. Finally pulled my finger out over the weekend and got it done.
View attachment 176618
That looks great I was watching one of Paul's videos a little earlier today, one where he's using wooden spokeshaves. I'm collecting a couple of them tomorrow.Made myself a Paul Sellers router plane. Had a piece of beech I'd earmarked for this kicking around for over a year. Finally pulled my finger out over the weekend and got it done.
View attachment 176618
We are gonna need a bigger lorry
left over iroko handrail made into plant pots
the extreme heat this week sure has caused a few splits an shakes, I'll leave them to weather naturally.
a laundry basket skip
had to buy the lorry for £1.50 when I saw it in the charity shop
A replacement panel or the whole chair?Underway, a 17th century chair panel.
Finishing off stuff which has been neglected for a year or so.
View attachment 176875
Amazing workUnderway, a 17th century chair panel.
Finishing off stuff which has been neglected for a year or so.
View attachment 176875
New chair, I think you've seen the rest of it before.A replacement panel or the whole chair?
perfect for the ladies. Not designed for men obviously, ha haI went back and rounded off all the corners with a spokeshave, here's the completed stool finished with de-waxed shellac.
Saw this -- not sure where ?
Made this from off-cuts
Lovely job. What method did you use to get the grain match on the drawer front?Writing desk for a customer. European ash, grain matched drawer cut out from front apron via a few steps. Turned out quite nice. I tried my best to keep the apron height down but still having a usable drawer height, as a tall apron on a writing desk is not desirable. Recessed 15×15mm solid metal bars (final picture) on the inside above and below the drawer to keep these thin (18mm) and long sections straight over time, drawer bottom mounted from below to maximize usable drawer height.
View attachment 176940
View attachment 176941
View attachment 176942
View attachment 176943
View attachment 176944
Thanks! I started with an over wide apron (approx 10mm material outside the bars), routed grooves for the metal bars and screwed these in place. With the bars in place I could after that go really thin on the dimension, sent the apron through the planer a few times until I had about 1.5mm thickness outside the bars.Lovely job. What method did you use to get the grain match on the drawer front?
Brian
Can you post a link to the videos please, I am about to make a Hall / Sofa table and on a few practice attempts the join is visible even though the grain is a good match, in your picture as Eric Morecambe used to say "you can't see the join"Thanks! I started with an over wide apron (approx 10mm material outside the bars), routed grooves for the metal bars and screwed these in place. With the bars in place I could after that go really thin on the dimension, sent the apron through the planer a few times until I had about 1.5mm thickness outside the bars.
Followed with ripping the front into 3 pieces, then replaned the ripped faces, cut away the drawer front part and then glued back together. I chose a board with very straight grain in the areas where the drawer was cut away, if wavy grain here even only a saw blade thickness would give a mismatch.
I have build videos for this but didn't want to spam this thread with those.
OK, the front apron cut out is done starting around the 16min mark in this video. But, for the joint to be invisible some luck and the right board for the job is needed. Grainmatch on the sides of the drawer is the "simple thing" since this is predictable, to have it invisible in the rip lines a bit luck is needed. One trick to play with here is that you can shift the short pieces outside the drawer sideways to match the grain as good as possible (not too far out though as then the drawer front will be too short, inwards you're free to move them without any constraints more than that the drawer will be smaller the more you move them). You can also shift the narrow pieces above and below the drawer individually, with the same constraint.Can you post a link to the videos please, I am about to make a Hall / Sofa table and on a few practice attempts the join is visible even though the grain is a good match, in your picture as Eric Morecambe used to say "you can't see the join"
Enter your email address to join: