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So my tree surgeon is now teasing me, he confirms that @Phil Pascoe is correct that the red wood I'm using at the minute is not red Cedar, he also says that it's not Yew but won't tell me what it is yet, in the meantime today I made another (smaller) vase from a piece of it, drilled out to 20mm, shaped then sanded to 600, abrasive paste then waxed, the finish is ok but I think I prefer an oil finish on this wood.
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I prefer the second one, the edge of the top is better proportioned ( not as deep / thick ) in relation to the overall shape.I did think of saying that the top edge when seen in profile of the first one was a little thick when you first posted it, but decided that I was being "nit picky" and said nothing because it was nevertheless very nice . Now , next to the second one, that first one's top edge seems "clunky". But I've no doubt that trying to thin it down is too much of a risk to take, not worth it maybe tearing just for that minor "thing" which is probably just me.

As to the wood, looks Jupiterian :) or pitch pine ( but then I'm a sculptor, so am carp at identifying most wood, but can "faux bois" any if I have a specimen or good pics to go from ) ..is there a prize for guessing correctly ? :)
 
Built in wardrobe in a loft conversion. The budget didn't stretch to fully despoke carcasses, so these are Ikea units elevated on a CLS plinth, with doors and infills in MR MDF with Oak fingerpull detail.
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Please can you advise how you did this?
I would assume a jig to cut/router out the curved shape all the way through the material.
Followed buy some kind of finger pull detail!!
Then eased the back (router) to accept the oak??

Any details very much appreciated

Thank you
 
So my tree surgeon is now teasing me, he confirms that @Phil Pascoe is correct that the red wood I'm using at the minute is not red Cedar, he also says that it's not Yew but won't tell me what it is yet, in the meantime today I made another (smaller) vase from a piece of it, drilled out to 20mm, shaped then sanded to 600, abrasive paste then waxed, the finish is ok but I think I prefer an oil finish on this wood.
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I think it could be Hawthorn.
 
Please can you advise how you did this?
I would assume a jig to cut/router out the curved shape all the way through the material.
Followed buy some kind of finger pull detail!!
Then eased the back (router) to accept the oak??

Any details very much appreciated

Thank you
Pretty much exactly as you describe. I used a tracksaw to cut away the fingerpull width (in this case 25mm). I left a little excess near the top of the pull, as I wanted to have radius in the corner.

I used a very simple template to finish the shape of the the cut-out with a top bearing template bit.

Then, I used a 3/8" bearing guided cove bit to route the 'undercut' profile for your fingertips. I clamped an offcut to the edge of the door to avoid accidentally profiling the door edge by slipping round the corner.

Finally, I reused my template, shifted over, to route the recess for the oak insert, with a top bearing hinge rebating cutter.

All of this was done from the back of the door, to avoid having to flip the (big, heavy!) door over multiple times. Remember to mark *everything* out first, as each operation removes the reference you'll need to mark out the next step. For once I worked this out ahead of time, so I don't have to type DAMHIK!

I used 18mm doors, 5mm oak insert, and roughly 3mm square edge left after cutting the cove profile. This created enough space to get a decent grip on the pull - the design was heavily 'inspired' by TWBespoke on Instagram, who uses 22mm doors, but I can't handle the weight of 22mm mdf!
 
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I prefer the second one, the edge of the top is better proportioned ( not as deep / thick ) in relation to the overall shape.I did think of saying that the top edge when seen in profile of the first one was a little thick when you first posted it, but decided that I was being "nit picky" and said nothing because it was nevertheless very nice . Now , next to the second one, that first one's top edge seems "clunky". But I've no doubt that trying to thin it down is too much of a risk to take, not worth it maybe tearing just for that minor "thing" which is probably just me.

As to the wood, looks Jupiterian :) or pitch pine ( but then I'm a sculptor, so am carp at identifying most wood, but can "faux bois" any if I have a specimen or good pics to go from ) ..is there a prize for guessing correctly ? :)
You're correct it is a bit chunky as is the neck, there are some cracks running up the neck that go right through to the inside and I didn't want to risk it exploding, I did think about having a thinner rim but with the neck being thick I thought it would look odd if the rim was not also thick
 
Pin Maritime ( pinus pinaster )
The range is further than the usual maps claim, it grows here too and we are not far from the Devon / Cornish coast, have some with that bark in my firewood pile ATM.

Ps.if you have the trees, probably wont be long before you have these, Pine processionary - Wikipedia they have been in Brittany for 10 years or more , we also have Asian hornets ( murder hornets ) since about 10 years too , now becoming a major problem, they are attracted by the blossoms of many plants especially ivy.
Global warming climate change.
 
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Looks like yew to me. I say that because I've got something very like it which the donor told me was yew. Or was it cedar? Very old conifer of some sort - there's a lot of species.
it's the heartwood that confuses me, bearing in mind i don't have a clue what I'm talking about...
i've been searching as it's quite educational...

i'm going for:
1. plum
2. Douglas fir
3. sycamore
 

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