Polyurethane varnish recommendation

[Bigfoot1980]

Hi all,

I have a few sheets of hard wood plywood being delivered tomorrow which will be stored in the garage. Having not bought full sheets before I'm wondering if a) I need to seal them pretty much straight away to stop moisture getting in to them and b) having had a look through the forum it appears a water based polyurethane would be good to use when I do seal them so was after any recommendations of any in the UK I can look to use.

Thanks very much.

 

[gcusick]

Depends on (a) how the ply is going to be used - “decent” furniture, or workshop fittings, (b) what sort of finish - gloss, matt, satin - you want.

For general purpose, functional items, I’ve found Ronseal quick drying varnishes work pretty well. I guess that the cheaper brands (“No Nonsense” etc) may also be OK. For a better finish, particularly one that exposes the grain better, and gives a better tactile effect, I’ve found that Polyvine wax effect varnish works well.

Whatever, preparation is key, and working at a high enough temperature is necessary. I’m waiting for warmer weather to finish the piece I’m working on at present!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

So long as your garage isn't wringing wet and you store them properly why the need to do anything with them?

 

[Bigfoot1980]

The plywood is going to be used for a French Cleat Wall in the garage so will be used where it will be stored. I actually had a new roof put on the garage yesterday so I am hoping there will be no water to worry about but will be moisture in the air. I had also considered that it might be too cold to actually dry anything I put on it so maybe I'll have to wait anyway. From what I had read I thought I needed to seal the edges and the faces to stop moisture getting in. I'd also like a satin finish.

 

[clogs]

I used an oil based decking treatment....sometimes in Lidil in 2.5ltr tins......
My ply boards often have to do double duty as protection from rain.....as well as ending up for proper jobs....best bit it can be touched up easilly, flows and covers well....
BIGFOOT,
Remember to coat both sides...
I just use a fluffy roller.....
I use the same product for all the wood around the house.....
and there's a lot to do.....plus no UV damage after extremes of sun...not in ur case....lol.....
gave up on buying modern Tarps as they are useless after a week...

 

[Jester129]

@clogs, I am one jealous *****!
Edit: spellcheck changed 'puppy' from 'bi tch'!!

 

[recipio]

Do you mean Baltic ply ? I have trouble storing it in my shed. After about a year a green mould develops and it's nearly impossible to sand off. I wouldn't say my shed is ' wet ' - it has block walls and insulation in the roof but I have had to stop storing Baltic ply because of this. Old ply will definitely expand as well - I have measured the edges with a Mitutoyo vernier and they can be a mm or so oversize . Rather than commit to a finish I think wrapping the ply in plastic would be a better option and when you come to use it at least it will be dry.
Avoid solvent finishes on baltic ply - it will turn it an unattractive ' honey' colour.!

 

[Bigfoot1980]

It is just this hardwood ply from Wickes

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non...UuNEyvJFauyBUY_H2csaAv-AEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Bigfoot1980]

So long as your garage isn't wringing wet and you store them properly why the need to do anything with them?

Hi Phil,

What would you class as storing 'properly'?

Regards,

Richard

 

[Bigfoot1980]

I used an oil based decking treatment....sometimes in Lidil in 2.5ltr tins......
My ply boards often have to do double duty as protection from rain.....as well as ending up for proper jobs....best bit it can be touched up easilly, flows and covers well....
BIGFOOT,
Remember to coat both sides...
I just use a fluffy roller.....
I use the same product for all the wood around the house.....
and there's a lot to do.....plus no UV damage after extremes of sun...not in ur case....lol.....
gave up on buying modern Tarps as they are useless after a week...View attachment 127340

Thanks Clogs. Yes I'll be doing both sides and the edges and will use a roller or wipe on wipe off depending what I get to seal it with.

 

[Bigfoot1980]

Do you mean Baltic ply ? I have trouble storing it in my shed. After about a year a green mould develops and it's nearly impossible to sand off. I wouldn't say my shed is ' wet ' - it has block walls and insulation in the roof but I have had to stop storing Baltic ply because of this. Old ply will definitely expand as well - I have measured the edges with a Mitutoyo vernier and they can be a mm or so oversize . Rather than commit to a finish I think wrapping the ply in plastic would be a better option and when you come to use it at least it will be dry.
Avoid solvent finishes on baltic ply - it will turn it an unattractive ' honey' colour.!

It is just this hardwood ply from Wickes

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non...UuNEyvJFauyBUY_H2csaAv-AEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[sometimewoodworker]

What I always do is to use an initial thin coat of shellac before putting on any finish, though I usually wait until the pieces are cut to size it would do no harm to coat the full sheets and will protect without causing any problems later.

 

[johnnyb]

that wickes ply is dreadful anyway. a bit of moisture might straighten it out a bit.
store it use it then finish it.

 

[Bigfoot1980]

What I always do is to use an initial thin coat of shellac before putting on any finish, though I usually wait until the pieces are cut to size it would do no harm to coat the full sheets and will protect without causing any problems later.

Thanks I'll have a look at shellac as well. Just wasn't sure what to use so after some advice. I'm not a woodworker, just a very average DIY'er finding myself some little projects to keep myself busy

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Thanks I'll have a look at shellac as well. Just wasn't sure what to use so after some advice. I'm not a woodworker, just a very average DIY'er finding myself some little projects to keep myself busy

The advantage of using shellac (½lb cut in this case) is that it will go over any finish or raw wood and all finishes will stick to it. Virtually all sanding sealers are ½lb cut shellac, or should be.

 

[Bigfoot1980]

The advantage of using shellac (½lb cut in this case) is that it will go over any finish or raw wood and all finishes will stick to it. Virtually all sanding sealers are ½lb cut shellac, or should be.

Great, thanks for the advice. Will see what I can find.

 

[recipio]

It is just this hardwood ply from Wickes

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non...UuNEyvJFauyBUY_H2csaAv-AEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

That's Luan faced ply - about the cheapest you will get and very poor quality. Its fine for attaching the French cleats and softwood battens would work well.

 

[Bigfoot1980]

That's Luan faced ply - about the cheapest you will get and very poor quality. Its fine for attaching the French cleats and softwood battens would work well.

Thanks for the info. It's only for the garage to put a few tools up so didn't want to go mad on top quality ply. Hopefully it'll do a job. It's a learning curve knowing what to buy for what job and where from.

 

[Matt_0222]

That's Luan faced ply - about the cheapest you will get and very poor quality. Its fine for attaching the French cleats and softwood battens would work well.

As a matter of interest, what better quality, cost effective plywood would you suggest instead? I’d been planning to use this kind of ply to make some basic cabinets and drawers in my garage workshop. Already made a garage storage unit with it and it seemed ok, or am I missing something? Happy to look at alternatives though.

 

[clogs]

sometime wood worker
the last sanding sealer I bought smelt like Cellulose.....?