Plunge saw deflecting?

[Mark A]

My Makita plunge saw has been great til this morning when I was cutting some MRMDF. The blade seems to be deflecting away from the guide rail as I make the cut, so that over 20" it is around 2mm off. Towards the end of the cut the blade started to burn the MDF, and wouldn't spring back up because it was that tight against the board?

I thought the guide rail had slipped, but was clamped down so it hadn't. After the initial cut I had to trim it square, so ran the saw along the edge of the board and it did the same thing again. Then I plunged the blade down a 1/4" in middle of the cut and it was fine, but when I pushed the saw forwards after the plunge the cut was off again?

I cleaned the blade with Mr Muscle window cleaner stuff last week, though there is a slight deposit of gunk on the carbide it's been worse and I've had no problem. Does my blade need a sharpen (feels pretty sharp to me though), and if so, where abouts in South Wales because there seems to be more surf shops than tool shops around here.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[9fingers]

Have you lost a tip or has the set been upset? That would tend to make the blade wander.

Bob

 

[Mark A]

Have you lost a tip or has the set been upset? That would tend to make the blade wander.

No - all teeth are there, and I've never accidentally hit a screw or a stone with it. The blade has never been sharpened so the shape of the teeth shouldn't have changed much either.

Mark

 

[tomatwark]

Mark

I had the same problem with my Dewalt one.

A new blade sorted it, and I then got my other one sharpened.

But don't buy from Aximinster online as the kerf is to small.

They had to order my ones in as I found theirs did not work.

Tom

 

[Mark A]

I think the kerf of my blade is 2.2mm and the plate is 1.6mm? Can't remember off the top of my head. I'll probably buy the 28t blade for it so I can rip timber as well.

Anyone know of a reputable saw doctor around the Swansea area/South Wales? The only one I know of also sell second-hand lawnmowers and going by the one we bought from them for £60 I wouldn't let them anywhere near my blades!

Thanks
Mark

 

[Lord Kitchener]

Sounds like you need to check the toe-in of the saw first. Festools have a toe in of about .1mm at full blade depth. Most cutting problems (unless there is something wrong with the blade) come for incorrect saw alignment.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Mark, there's a good guide on-line (as a PDF) for the Festool (I think the link is the right one - if it's the factory guide you'll need to Google - been discussed here recently).

It's very applicable to the Makita too (far better than their own "instructions"!), and includes quite a bit on setup. The author, who I think is someone in the Festool USA importers, suggests a slight toe-in (thickness of a piece of paper at the back of the blade). It's only to achieve a cleaner finish to the cut though.

I hate to disagree with Bob M., but, assuming you've got the runners adjusted well on the rail, it sounds like something's coming loose, or wearing out. Given the way the system works, it should be hard for the blade to deviate that much without something dramatic happening to the rail!

Makita's system is not as good as Festool's in one important respect: the guide friction bushes (for the track) can't be rotated, so they wear quickly in one place. I just went to look at mine before typing the last sentence. The saw has had very little use so far, and - sure enough - the blue plastic rings (well, "C" shapes, below the black knobs) that actually control the friction are worn already. It won't be helped by me having to join two tracks for 8ft boards, as they'll inevitably scuff at the joint.

If they wear, the saw can move sideways during the cut.

At a pinch, I think you might get more life from them by cutting a notch opposite the existing opening for the locating lug, so they can be installed 180deg rotated. Makita are infuriating - if they'd moulded the base casting with the lug facing backwards on one guide and forwards on t'other, you'd get twice the life from the bushes.

I hope they're not expensive, as I'll need some myself soon, grrr.

E.

PS: Just looked it up: The part in question is MSP-419627-9.0 (the link is to the relevant page on MTMC's site, #75 or #81 on the diagram).

They're £1.20 each, ouch!

 

[9fingers]

I hate to disagree with Bob M., but, assuming you've got the runners adjusted well on the rail, it sounds like something's coming loose, or wearing out. Given the way the system works, it should be hard for the blade to deviate that much without something dramatic happening to the rail!

Don't worry about that Eric! I don't have one of this type of saw and my comments were simply that if a blade is cutting more on one side compared to the other, it can tend to cut off the line.

Bob

 

[Mark A]

Thanks Eric, I really appreciate it... and 1000th post too - I'm honoured!!

Unfortunately I'm away from my shed tonight so I wont be able to check, but I don't recall any wobbling or movement of the saw on the rail. First thing tomorrow I'll have a look to find out.

If the plastic C's are the problem then I'll try cutting a notch in them, then I think I'll order a new pair anyway, for the extortionate sum of £1.21 each! I bought my saw in November last year and have used it quite a lot since so it doesn’t matter really.

Overall I'm very happy with the saw, it's just my well over-stretched budget couldn't elasticise itself to a Festool.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[cutting solutions]

Hamilton Edge are the saw doctors I would suggest you use:
GRANGE IND ESTATE
LLANFRECHFA WAY
CWMBRAN
01633 838900

No connection but having worked with saw doctors up and down the country for the past 25 years I should know who they are :mrgreen:

 

[Mark A]

Thanks Doug

I'll write that down and stick it to the fridge!

Mark

 

[Mark A]

Hi everyone

I couldn't get into the shed to have a go yesterday but could today, and... it seems to be working now. I think a combination of a clean blade, properly set guide rail adjusters and using the spare rail instead of my usual one did it.

Eric - the plastic C's don't appear to be hardly worn at all, and I've used my saw quite a lot over the 9 months I've had it, though I don't join my 2 rails up much to make long cuts.

One more thing - the zero clearance strips need replacing on my rails but I don't know what it's called and D&M tools sell 3 different things with no descriptions. The Makita site is useless as well. Here's a screen print from the D&M site... does anyone know which one it is?

Cheers, Mark

 

[Chrispy]

Hi Mark

If your saw blade is that blunt it may have over heated? when this happens it can distort which makes it wander which in turn will make it over heat even more if this is the case your saw blade may need re tensioning to re-flatten it or even replacing.
This happend to me on a 300mm table saw when ripping

 

[Mark A]

Hi Mark

If your saw blade is that blunt it may have over heated? when this happens it can distort which makes it wander which in turn will make it over heat even more if this is the case your saw blade may need re tensioning to re-flatten it or even replacing.
This happend to me on a 300mm table saw when ripping

It seems to cut ok and feels sharp to the touch? I'll try it for a bit longer, then I'll have it sharpened by the company Doug recommends.

Thanks, Mark

 

[Charlie Woody]

Hi Mark

I had problems with my Makita cordless saw last year so I contacted Makita for the name of their nearest service dealer to me. After a few emails it became clear that they did not have anyone in my area. They arranged for the saw to be collected by courier, fixed and returned to me - no charge and all within about 4/5 working days.

Needless to say I was very pleased!

The note explaining the fault was illegible so I don't know what the cause of the problem was ..... kept wandering off when I tried to run it against a straight edge.

So if you are still having problems I would suggest you email Makita.

 

[Mark A]

Thanks Charlie

I'll try it again now and if it's still playing up I'll contact Makita.

Mark