Planing Oak

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Joe

Established Member
Joined
29 Nov 2007
Messages
200
Reaction score
0
Location
South West
I'm recycling an old school table-top, cutting some 70mm x 20mm x 60mm boards out of it. The problem is that it seems to be shredding my plane iron - I can barely clean up a single face of the timber (which is fairly flat anyhow) before the blade's cutting edge appears minutely serrated and a wire-edge forms on the back. I started off with a 30 degree secondary bevel and 32 degree micro-bevel then increased both these angles by 5 degrees, but it doesn't seemed to have helped much (the blade is A2 steel). Is this normal, or am I doing something wrong?

If anyone can offer some advice it would be much appreciated!
 
Joe, from what you have said I would question the steel, perhaps there has been incorrect heat treatment. How hard was it to sharpen? A2 at 32 degrees should not result in a wire edge being formed. Has the blade ever been overheated during grinding?
 
Thanks Newt. I've not used a grinder on the blade, only waterstones, and it certainly seems pretty tough when re-establishing the primary bevel by hand. It is a Lie Nielsen iron, so I'd rather hope that it was manufactured to a high standard.

Joel
 
Joe":13iqwb74 said:
cutting some 70mm x 20mm x 60mm boards out of it

What you making? A fag packet?? :D

Seem to recall reading somewhere that there were some dodgy LN blades in th early days. Maybe it was on here. Is it an old blade?

You tried another plane/blade?

Is this happening when you plane the original surface? i.e. could it be impregnated with all kinds of cr*p? Is the sole of your plane scratched? If so, clean it up with a belt sander before planing.

Apologies if teaching granny to suck eggs etc

cheers
 
I think here I would agree with Scott in that there's probably about a century's worth of cr@p on an old school desk. My approach would be to use a cambered blade in a 2" woodie and take a narrow, fairly deep shaving off to clean up the surface an then attack it with the better quality :? steel - Rob
 
I use a lot of reclaimed timber and it does have its hazards. A decent nail detector helps but I wire brush or run a belt sander over all surfaces before doing any serious work. Your description of damage to the plane iron seems to indicate a lot of rubbish in the wood. I can see no reason why you should have this problem suddenly unless the timber is to blame.
Roy.
 
I agree, reclaimed timber can have a very gritty surface, not to mention the remains of thumb tacks if its from a school! I have improved the life of my plane blade by giving the surface a good sanding - orbital or belt - before planing.

Bob
 
Oops, should have said 70mm x 20mm x 600mm. Thanks to everyone for the advice. The surface seems fairly clean, but I guess rubbish could have worked its way into the grain over the years.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that sanding before using a cutting tool might be a bad idea because grit left in the wood might dull the blade - is there any truth in this?
 
Never noticed it myself. I certainly have a lot less blade damage since I adopted sanding and wire brushing.
True, there might be some damage, but it's certainly a damn site less than if no cleaning is done, and as I sharpen my own machine blades the slight wear increase that might occur hasn't been a problem.

Roy.
 
This is what can happen if you don't take a few preparatory swipes with an old woodie or similar.

2109787300_0d9b54556e.jpg


This is the sole of my LV LA jack badly scored by silica embedded in the wood surface. A lesson learned there. All wood now gets at least the once over with a spid brush - anything recylcled gets the top layer removed with my woodie fore plane from ****.

Cheers Mike.
 
I would not recommend planing a previously (fresh) sanded surface. That is sure to muck up your plane sole. A hand scraper might remove the top crud. It will also be easy to refresh the scraper's edge when your are done. The wood may also be "work-tempered" near the surface, making it less planable.
 
That photo of your plane sole looks rather familiar Mike. I guess I should dig out the old wooden fore-plane I inherited from my grandfather.

Thanks again to everyone for the tips...
 
Joe":3ehikeij said:
That photo of your plane sole looks rather familiar Mike. I guess I should dig out the old wooden fore-plane I inherited from my grandfather.

Thanks again to everyone for the tips...

Thats exactly what I did. It gets used on anything recycled and is quite useful just used in its role as a fore plane.

Cheers Mike
 

Latest posts

Back
Top