planer thicknesser choice.

[Bodgers]

I keep reading reviews about lots of makes, but it comes back to two things for me. Apart from the makita, the noise levels are mentioned every time. extreme and painful noise levels. Cant have that. Makita confidently boasts of being the quietest.
The other is the snipe. Just read a triton review that said he likes the machine, but loses an inch either end of the wood. Cant be doing with that either.
Again, makita claim very small fractions of an inch snipe each time.
I'd like to save a couple hundred quid, but not with those downsides attached.

I really need to have a go with one of these makita's.

If noise is a factor you want one with an induction motor. Comparing noise levels on uni motor lunch box planers is like comparing various pain levels of hacking your arms off in different ways: it is all bad.

Cheapest Planer/thicknesser units with an induction motor is the Metabo which weighs in at about £500 (HC260). The his is what I would upgrade my Titan uni motor screamer too...I think Axminster do one similar.

What you have to remember is the act of the rotating planer blades munching through hardwood exceeds the sound level of even the loudest universal brush motor cheapy. So it is only really going to be quieter whilst the wood isn't touching the cutters. Then you are looking at helical blade support...



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[custard]

Just read a triton review that said he likes the machine, but loses an inch either end of the wood. Cant be doing with that either.
Again, makita claim very small fractions of an inch snipe each time.

I strongly suspect that by "small fractions of an inch" Makita means the depth of the snipe rather than the length of the snipe.

Snipe is a funny issue. Even on a perfectly set up machine you might still get it occasionally from a twisted board, but generally speaking you should be able to adjust snipe right out of the process. Get the feed rollers, cutter block, knives, and the in/out feed tables all properly aligned and snipe disappears. The difference between a good machine and a poor machine is how long it can hold these perfect settings without drifting out of true and re-introducing snipe back into the equation. Really excellent machinery will happily run a year or more, even in a busy professional workshop, without a hint of snipe. El cheapo far eastern tat can drift out of true within minutes of you getting everything just perfect. However, even in the worst cases, snipe isn't the biggest problem in the world, just leave your boards over length by a few inches and trim off the sniped section while cross cutting.

The noise issue you mentioned is just a fact of life with planer/thicknessers (maybe with the exception of spiral block thicknessers, but that's not relevant here). They're right up there with routers as the noisiest machines in the workshop. Luckily for hobbyist use you're unlikely to be processing thousands of feet of timber at a time, so a quick thirty or forty minute session might see you sorted for a fortnight or so. Surely that's acceptable to even the prickliest neighbour?

 

[screwpainting]

How about buying the appropriate hand planing gear and paying a local 73 year old to do the donkey work as and when required. This would be cheaper and you would have lovely hand tools to gloat over plus be able to harangue some poor old sod like yourself whilst sipping a cool one.

No dust extraction, sweat, or massive haulage costs.

Win win in my opinion

Steve

 

[sunnybob]

I like the theory of outsourcing. But Cypriots work to provide mercedes cars for their families. I cant see one working for the peanuts in the centre console.

I know theres no quiet planer, but it would be nice to save a few decibels where I can. My running time would be seconds compared to my current 10 minutes at a time, so that will help a lot.

Again my ignorance has shown up. I really thought the snipe measurement was length, not depth. But again, I am happy to sand the last mm down, I just can no longer sand 3 or 4 mm of every board that is currently needed.

All of this has helped increase my knowledge base, even if it hasnt helped in the slightest to narrow down exactly what would be the best for me. I need to get to a wood working show when I'm in the Uk. I'm hoping at this stage to get to yandles on the first day of my visit.

 

[Aggrajag]

I always used ear defenders as even though my scroll saw is pretty quiet (Excalibur) I am aware that constant noise is bad for you. When I then added dust/chip extraction obviously the noise level increased dramatically but with defenders still no biggie. Having recently bought the Woodstar (aka Woodster) PT85 Planer/Thicknesser I find the noise is irrelevant - again with ear defenders on it's hidden by the extractor and besides it's only working for seconds at a time.

For reference I use a Scheppach HA1000 extractor which plugs directly into the Woodstar and the clear up is damned near perfect.

 

[squib]

Just my thoughts...
The noise from a thicknesser is mainly down to the cutters and is directly related to the sharpness, when you first set the blades in the machine is very quiet and gets louder surprisingly quickly.
Without a planer (as in having just a thicknesser) you can achieve decent result by turning the board form under to over and can eliminate a reasonable amount of twist, or of course a very quick hand plane to the worst bits first. Snipe can be mainly eliminated but happens sometimes at incredibly annoying times, just make sure you machine your timber before selecting to cut.
The main point is that which ever machine you buy it will change your life and you will wonder how you managed before, they take out all the worst of the donkey work leaving the skill of the final hand finish. ENJOY!

Oh, and please,please note the post about not thicknessing short lengths, or ever glue a short length to a longer board!!

 

[Bodgers]

I always used ear defenders as even though my scroll saw is pretty quiet (Excalibur) I am aware that constant noise is bad for you. When I then added dust/chip extraction obviously the noise level increased dramatically but with defenders still no biggie. Having recently bought the Woodstar (aka Woodster) PT85 Planer/Thicknesser I find the noise is irrelevant - again with ear defenders on it's hidden by the extractor and besides it's only working for seconds at a time.

For reference I use a Scheppach HA1000 extractor which plugs directly into the Woodstar and the clear up is damned near perfect.

I have the Titan clone of that combo unit, and I think your extractor must have problems, as the planer/thicknesser is insanely loud.

I actually don't use mine as much now because it is so loud. I'm doing some oak face frames at the moment for some cabinets, and I'm just dimensioning the sawn oak up as much as possible on the tablesaw and bandsaw and then giving stuff a quick light lick on the planer/thicknesser to clean it up.

 

[Aggrajag]

I always used ear defenders as even though my scroll saw is pretty quiet (Excalibur) I am aware that constant noise is bad for you. When I then added dust/chip extraction obviously the noise level increased dramatically but with defenders still no biggie. Having recently bought the Woodstar (aka Woodster) PT85 Planer/Thicknesser I find the noise is irrelevant - again with ear defenders on it's hidden by the extractor and besides it's only working for seconds at a time.

For reference I use a Scheppach HA1000 extractor which plugs directly into the Woodstar and the clear up is damned near perfect.

I have the Titan clone of that combo unit, and I think your extractor must have problems, as the planer/thicknesser is insanely loud.

I actually don't use mine as much now because it is so loud. I'm doing some oak face frames at the moment for some cabinets, and I'm just dimensioning the sawn oak up as much as possible on the tablesaw and bandsaw and then giving stuff a quick light lick on the planer/thicknesser to clean it up.

I don't understand the logic of your P/T being loud means my extractor is faulty? My extractor sounds like any normal vacuum cleaner.

[edit: I think perhaps your P/T clone isn't actually a clone? Both the Titan and the Woodstar are sold by Screwfix with a price difference of £100 - I doubt the same shop would sell two identical machines for different prices? Perhaps the Titan is actually much louder?]

 

[Shrubby]

The Mafell planer thicknessers 160 and 280 were made in house. They are no longer produced due to the flood of cheap Chinese plagiarisms like woodstar
Kraeku (Flottjett) is the last German maker of small wood machines I know of but their smallest planer is 95KG - back to the Makita then Bob
Matt

 

[Jupeto]

Titan TTB579PLN from Screwfix. I have a titan TTB579PLN jointer planer, which is only supplier is Screwfix ,and in a recent house move the Extractor Port was lost. I contacted Screwfix to obtain a replacement only to be informed that they (Screwfix) do not stock replacement parts for Titan. As the TTB579PLN Extractor Port embodies a Safety inter Lock Switch the planer is unusable. This is a point to be considered when purchasing from Screwfix as you may find that you may be wasting £150.

 

[Seiken]

I've been looking at the Triton on and off for a couple of months, which is a fair chunk cheaper than the dewalt or makita. Obviously there could well be a big difference in quality but for my occasionally use it might suffice, haven't found anyone that's brought one yet to ask.

I've had a Triton TPT125 for two years, very little snipe, will thickness down to 3.2mm, weighs just over 28kg (according to specs-not weighed it), extraction reasonable imo, no blade setting to do as blades are located on pins. Very happy with it for the price.

 

[johnnyb]

I've read this post with amusement as I've had full size machines that wouldn't consistently work properly and produce 4 square material!
Once your material is all flat and square all the other techniques can be used with abandon and a good result follows. If your equipment isn't capable of 4 square then you will struggle. Every step after will be difficult. I know I would look for a good machine in Cyprus . Or somewhere shippable at least.

 

[Trevanion]

I think Bob managed to buy one in the end. This thread is over 2 years old!

 

[johnnyb]

Bosey digger!

 

[Seiken]

Bosey digger!

Blimey you're right just noticed the dates, dunno what popped this up to the top!

 

[sunnybob]

I bought a jet thicknesser. mainly because of good delivery price from axminster. i would not buy another one. As always when buying new stuff, its only AFTER buying that you become an expert and find out exactly what is important.
Anyone preparing to buy a thicknesser should make sure the planing head is locked to the coloumns while planing. That will stop snipe. Mine does not lock, and I have given up trying to get snipe free wood.