Planer Knife Setting Jig

[Digit]

My jigs are two peieces of plastic 5 inches long with three small magnets embedded in them. Two hold the jigs down onto the outfeed table.
If your table is alli then drill and tap two holes. I hold the cutter block at TDC with a pin attached to the top of the bearing housing and engages in the slot where the knives are.
The magnets are arranged to set the knives 2-3 thou below the outfeed table.
Replacing three knives takes about 20 minutes.
If necessary the jigs can be made with a hook that locates the knives at TDC, this requires that the jigs be located in place on the outfeed table. Drill and tap, or another hook to hang the jigs over the edge of the outfeed table etc.
Once made the job is quick and fool proof and accurate.

Roy.

 

[Giff]

That sound very accurate but simple to use. I have an iron table so the magnets will work. Thanks again Giff

 

[Tim Nott]

The jig thingies are simple, if you can set them off the block rather than the tables. With a knife in place, align the outfeed side magnet with the back of the blade. Click the other magnet on to the infeed side of the block, then screw the blade magnet down till it just touches the blade. Tighten the locking screw on the jig, Repeat in the same position for the other jig.
You should now never have to change the settings again - with all three magnets touching on both jigs at each end of the block you can be sure that your blades will be aligned precisely to the block.

 

[stuartpaul]

I splashed out today and bought a set of these:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod804558/

Yet to use them but hopeful that they'll do the job as I find blade setting a PITA!

Should at least hold the blades steady while tightening the lock nuts.

 

[Digit]

That's exactly what my home made ones look like SP. But I fail to see how they can work acurately unless the cutter block is rotated exactly the correct number of degrees from knife to knife.

Roy.

 

[grahamar]

Hi,

Here's the link to the Steve Maskery setup for the planer knives. This is part
of his "How to remove snipe" video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHfjSatKITQ

The process/setup works just fine for me, I have a Metabo 260. Indeed this is
the process Metabo recommend in their manual.

graham

 

[Digit]

I'll have to look at it later Graham as all Wales is on the net tonight and videos are slooooow!
I can well understand that you can rotate the cutter block to bring the knife to TDC visually but I wonder just how accurate that is?
I have even argued with myself that it might not be that important, that two or three knives effectively cutting one after the other might be a better arrangement.

Roy.

 

[stuartpaul]

That's exactly what my home made ones look like SP. But I fail to see how they can work acurately unless the cutter block is rotated exactly the correct number of degrees from knife to knife.

Roy.

Roy,

You know I never thought of that very simple fact!

I'll have to figure out some way of ensuring TDC otherwise that not so lovely ripple effect will appear.

 

[Digit]

Will it though SP?
I played safe and made a fitting on my planer that enables me to rotate the block exactly, but I'm still uncertain as to whether I needed to go that extra mile or not.

Roy.

 

[stuartpaul]

You're probably right Roy but I reckon it needs to be reasonably close or it will ripple?

When I first got the P/T the blades were slightly out and there was a most definite ripple. Resetting solved it but it took ages and I was hoping this device would speed the process.

Time will tell!

 

[Giff]

Roy I have seen the new posts and I think the crucial thing here as you have said is setting TDC on the block. Does your block have a hole drolled for a pin or have you drilled one. Giff

 

[Digit]

SP sorry about the delay in getting back to you but I've had my PC in pieces.
That is what I was afraid of. If you now have the knives set to your satisfaction try this.
Using a DTI clock one knife for TDC then make a jig that sits on the out feed table with a lip that butts against the leading edge of the table and the trailing edge of the knife.
This should give you TDC on each knife each time.
Hope that makes sense.

Roy.

 

[Giff]

Thanks again Roy that makes perfect sense and I think I am getting there now. I have had the planer for nearly a year but just used it as it came. I have only been planing narrow ( 70 - 80mm) sections.....but now I have tried to put the re-ground blades back in have found that both in and out-feed beds were a long way out....out-feed 1.80mm and the in-feed 0.70 the other way. I think I got away with it before as I was only using a small part of the blade, or the blades had been set out as well to compensate...
Thanks for all your help just waiting for the magnets to finish the jigs....Giff

 

[Shokunin]

Hi Dave, did you by any chance find that pic of the Wadkin knife setting jig? Would be most interested - planning to have one made by an engineer friend, but we are stuck with dimensions. In the manual the reference is always to the jig as far as the knife protrusion is concerned.

 

[Woodmatt]

I have just tried this method which seems to work well

 

[Sandyn]

Very interesting, You should post this in a current thread which has moved on to planer/thicknesser adjustment