Planer/Jointer vs Thicknesser, which one should I buy first?

[samuel235]

Hi all,

Looking for a little advise on if I should purchase a planer/jointer first or a thicknesser? I'm looking to make some cutting boards, mainly end grain to start with but will be the odd edge grain too and I'm just starting to equip a little home shop, so far I have a DeWalt DW745 Table Saw, a Metabo KGS216M Mitre Saw, Bosch Palm Router, Titan Tracksaw and various hand tools and cordless drills. I'm looking to purchase either a Planer/Jointer or a Thicknesser, I would love to purchase both but I really dont have the money at the moment.

Option 1: Make a nice quality router sled using some V-Slot extrusion and V-Slot wheels and use my router to surface and edge the stock and then purchase a thicknesser to get it to the correct thickness for my projects.
Option 2: Purchase a jointer to surface and edge the stock and then use the table saw to rip the wood down to the correct widths?
Option 3: Purchase a Thicknesser and make a surfacing jig for the thicknesser, 2 birds with one stone approach?

I'm completely open to advise at this point and would welcome any words of wisdom from you all.

 

[Jameshow]

I have a titan 250mm planer jointer that we purchased for my son to make chopping board for a school project. (I didn't need much persuading!) Does the job but you really need to think about dust extraction too. A hover dosen't really cut it. A proper dust extractor to deal with the chips is needed tbh.

Cheers James

 

[Sheptonphil]

If you are intending to make end grain boards to start with, I’d get the thicknesser. You can hand plane the sides as you are planing along the grain. The thicknesser, especially with a spiral block cutter, will take better care of the end grain surface than you can hand plane.

 

[marcros]

Have you ruled out the combined planer thicknesser? It will give you more choice too, standalone machines are less in number than the combis.

Of the two, I would go for the thicknesser. It is less work to knock the high spots off with a hand plane and get it fairly flat than to reduce the thickness of several boards by hand. For a couple of boards, there are people on here that could grab a plane and dimension it quicker than I could get the thicknesser out. I would be very wary of putting end grain through either a planer or thicknesser. By this I mean it isn't for beginners, and were it not for others managing to do it successfully with tiny passes, I would say don't do it full stop.

 

[Ollie78]

Just get a planer/ thicknesser machine.

A combined machine is the best option in my opinion. Go easy planing end grain though it can get a bit, er splintery.

Option 1: Make a nice quality router sled using some V-Slot extrusion and V-Slot wheels and use my router to surface and edge the stock and then purchase a thicknesser to get it to the correct thickness for my projects.

For this method you dont need to get fancy with it, I have surfaced wide boards and slabs using a simple plywood sled. A nice thick bit of ply glued up in a U shape the same width as the router base, cut a slot down the centre but not all the way down, for the bit to pass through. Just rest it on two equal sized boards on a flat floor and put the wood to be milled in the centre. Its not perfect but practically free. Also you could do both sides with the sled and not use a thicknesser.

V slot wheels will not like the amount of dust created by this type of operation, sealed linear guides would be favourite if you were going that far.

Ollie

 

[marcros]

Something like this.

https://machineatlas.com/machines/elektra-beckum-hc260/
Various brands did a version- record power, EB, DeWalt, metabo etc.

I would steer clear of any benchtop models because you will outgrow them very quickly. If it was a choice between a cheap benchtop planer or thicknesser or nothing I would save the money. A hand plane or 2 is a suitable workaround, or a router sled.

 

[samuel235]

Have you ruled out the combined planer thicknesser? It will give you more choice too, standalone machines are less in number than the combis.

Do you have any other models that you could recommend or are these "260" models across the various brands a good starting point? I've start my search for a Metabo/Elektra one already. I'm not too inclinded to run the whole board through a thicknesser as I'm aware of the splintering that could come from it, it was mainly for prepping the stock ready for the glue ups. I will more than likely end up using a router sled/CNC for the final flattening for the end grain boards. Thank you for point that out though.

Thanks Ollie, I was trying to keep it simple and able to put into storage easily with the V-Slot but I didn't consider the dust getting under the wheels, thank you for pointing that out.

 

[spb]

Do you have any other models that you could recommend or are these "260" models across the various brands a good starting point?

What's your budget, and how much space do you have? The various 260 models are a good starter at their price point and footprint, but a little more of both will get you a machine that'll last longer and be more capable.

I have the Record Power PT260 - partly for budget reasons, but mostly because I knew that within a year I'd have to load whatever I bought into a hatchback, and I didn't fancy trying to do that with something weighing 150kg or more.

 

[samuel235]

I would like to keep it below £400 if possible. Which is why im looking at the used market. I too have to load anything into a hatchback if I needed to move it, my floor space is at a premium right now as I only have a small shed to work out of at the moment.

Currently looking at a used Metabo hc260 for around the £350-£400 mark, does that sound a reasonable price?

 

[Just4Fun]

Asking from a position of total ignorance ... would a drum sander be a more suitable tool for end grain chopping boards?

 

[ScaredyCat]

My advice would be do not put an end grain chopping board through a thicknesser.

Not only is it dangerous - wood can eject at speed from every orifice on the machine, but after spending £400 you're not going to be pleased when the end grain catches and attempts to force itself through the top. Tears, there will be many.

Just4fun right, get or make a drum sander - much more appropriate tool.

 

[samuel235]

Thank you @ScaredyCat - Like I mentioned above, I wasn't planning on running the entire board through, It was simply for stock manipulation. Thank you for point it out though, safety is the number 1 concern for all of us here, its nice to see. My understanding is a drum sander or router sled/table for thicknessing it and then RO sander to smooth it past the first initial coase sanding pass on the drum.

 

[Cabinetman]

Well Samuel, just to say, I’ve put all my end grain chopping blocks across my planer, slowly with a light cut, then turned over and through the thicknesser, I certainly wouldn’t have done it if it was dangerous, hardly any breakout on the last bit that went through the thicknesser even. Big heavy machine with Teresa blades, maybe that helped. Ian

 

[samuel235]

Thank you Ian, entirely possible on the right machine then, the level of machinery i'm looking at for my price point is probably not worth trying it. I'm happy to run through a router/drum sander/belt sander then a RO sander, no issues there for me.

I'm looking at the used market for a Elektra/Metabo hc260 and a kity 636 just caught my eye. Is there any other machines that people would advise on looking into and a sensible price for these machines if anyone knows anything that would be a big help, thank you.

 

[recipio]

I would look for a secondhand Scheppach 260. They are easy to service and the rubber rollers will not mark the wood.

 

[Jester129]

Cabinetman.
In fairness, you've 'been around the block' and the OP is a relative newbe. You know what you're doing, he doesn't. I'm afraid I disagree with your advice, for the first time ever. Fair point?

 

[Trevanion]

With some careful knife doctoring and the correct techniques, you could have perfectly smooth results planing end-grain through a thicknesser. But that may be a bit beyond the amateur hobbyist.

The thing is with Surface Planers and Thicknessers, one doesn't do the others job, they work together in twined harmony so they are both absolutely necessary. A good compromise is a Planer Thicknesser which is the best of both worlds compressed into one machine.

 

[Doug B]

If you do go down the thicknesser route I’ve just received an email from FFX saying they are doing a Black Friday deal on a Metabo thicknesser, don’t know if it’s a bargain just thought I’d pass it on
https://www.ffx.co.uk/Product/Get/M...er-2020-star-buy&tmty=e&tmcv=382&tmcs=ncyqqg9

 

[samuel235]

Thank you @recipio, I will keep an eye out for one on my searches.

I completely understand @Trevanion, thank you. I'm just aware that with a little work you can surface in a jointer. But come to think of it, its probably easier to thickness a piece of timber on a jointer than it is to joint a piece of timber in a thicknesser. Note I said easier, not quicker. Either way, I think a combination of the two in one machine is making much more sense now I know that they are actually worth their cost. Coming into this I was not aware that they were any good as I'm aware that machines are better doing a single job but well rather than multiple jobs, to an okay standard. But if these combination machines are any good then I'm now searching for one.

Thanks @Doug B - I also noticed that sale they had on, if for some reason I can't get a combination machine, I will probably look to purchase this Metabo one.

 

[Nelly111s]

I’ve produced quite a few chopping / serving boards in both face grain and end grain. I’d go for a wider (310 or 410) thicknesser if you have room and the cash. You can use a hand plane or sledge on the thicknesser to get it flat first. A 260mm wide chopping board is a bit limited. I have also put end grain boards through the thicknesser, both during construction and when complete. Taking v light passes works OK.