Planer Blade Setting Device - Method Tools

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi all

In the last couple of days I saw a link to Method Tools for planer blades and as a result I saw that they sell a planer blade setting device for 49 GBP inc vat and carriage.

This seems expensive, but does anyone have one or can suggest something else?

Thanks
Neil

 

[CHJ]

Rutlands version at £40 + £6 carriage.

 

[wrightclan]

I've made my own. Very simple and inexpensive. But only works with iron tables--based on magnets. Does your planer have iron tables? I'll explain if it would be assistance to you or anyone else.

Brad

 

[Scrit]

I use a magnetic one (which only works with steel blocks, so Kity owners can't use them), but before that I used to use a mk 1 straight stick and a pencil....... Slower, but really cheap

Scrit

 

[ike]

I use a 12" steel rule - saves sharpening a pencil. Takes me maybe 5-10 minutes tops, per blade.

Ike

 

[engineer one]

what about a dial gauge and stand.
indeed you could even use a metal scriber on a stand, most engineering
shops seem to be giving these away with stamps these days
because of computers.

paul :wink:

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Brad

I've made my own. Very simple and inexpensive. But only works with iron tables--based on magnets. Does your planer have iron tables? I'll explain if it would be assistance to you or anyone else.

Yes please. I've got cast iron tables.

Thanks
Neil

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Chas

Do you have the Rutlands one? If so, what do you think.

Cheers
Neil

 

[CHJ]

Hi Chas

Do you have the Rutlands one? If so, what do you think.

Cheers
Neil

Hi Neil,

Sorry I don't, my thicknesser, an el-cheapo Charnwood, came with a blade setting tool of a different type.

It is a one piece unit about 2/3 the width of the blade that has fixed pads each end for the spring loaded blade to locate on for correct protrusion.

Not in UK at moment so no picture I'm afraid, but any semi-circular template that fits the block and has a register matched to the factory set blade protrusion is all that is needed. If the blades do not have base springs then magnetic registers are beneficial to hold blade out at correct protrusion.

I just remembered seeing the Rutlands units which are much the same as those supplied for the electro-bekum (sp?) etc. (but cheaper) when I last saw them in local German store.

 

[wrightclan]

Ok here goes. I hope my explanation is as easy to understand as the jig is to make. You take two sheets of 18mm MDF. They should be nearly as wide as your tables (exact measurement not critical), and at least half as long as your outfeed table. Laminate them together, making sure they are, and remain dead flat.

Buy some rare earth magnets (disc shaped). Bore some holes, just the size or slightly larger and to the same depth as the magnets. There should be two or three magnets at each end of the board. And another two or three that sit on the outfeed table, near the cutter opening, when one of the end rows is sitting above the blade at it's highest point. Epoxy the magnets in, making sure they are not proud of the board.

That's it for making it. You may have already guessed how to use it, but I'll explain, just in case.

Lay the board on the outfeed table. Make sure it is clean and the table is clean (no shavings to keep it from lying dead flat). Have the end magnets sitting over the cutter block with the blade loosely in place. Move the cutter block to the point it is at it's highest point. You will have to move it back and forth slightly to ascertain that point. If you have height adjusting screws, adjust them until the blade just makes contact with the magnets. The magnets hold the blade, absolutely flush with the table, as you tighten the gib.

Hope this helps.

Brad

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Chas

Thanks for getting back to me.

Cheers
Neil

PS Hope you're enjoying your trip.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Brad

Excellent, thank you for the explanation. It was very clear.

I'll be making one soon.

Cheers
Neil

 

[CHJ]

Just for the benefit of newcomers to the slippery slope of woodshop machines as I introduced 'Thicknesser' into this Planer thread:

The above very cost effective method is only viable with Planer/Thicknessers where setting can be achieved in Planer mode.

Stand alone Thicknessers need a tool/jig independent of the 'table' (i.e. using the cutter block as reference) because of access to the fixing nuts.

 

[woodbloke]

Scrit wrote:

but before that I used to use a mk 1 straight stick and a pencil....... Slower, but really cheap

That's all I use on my Kity. Agreed, its slow and fiddly but you can get a tiny amount of 'lift' using this method so that the blades are just the smallest fraction higher than the outfeed table, works for me - Rob

 

[Anonymous]

This tread confuses me somewhat

Why do you need/want a planer blade setter?

I have replaced the blades in both my SIP P/T and Delta thicknesser and only needed a spanner, allen key and a ruler. For the SIP, I simply lay the ruler on the outfeed table and lock the blades with them just touching it - if they are raised above the table as recommended in the manual (which makes no logical sense to me), one gets snipe in my experience (which does make sense).

I really can't see why a setter is needed and hope someone can explain clearly

 

[engineer one]

tony,
i think this comes back from our cussins across the water.

and indeed some of the older machines were more difficult.

different machines have different ways of keeping the blades
at the same height whilst you are tightening all the nuts/ or
screws. my ad160 has little or now adjustment, but some i
understand have more and the weight of the blades causes them to
move in the holder.

does that make more sense????

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

Possibly Paul, clearly I only have experience with 2 machines

 

[wrightclan]

This tread confuses me somewhat

Why do you need/want a planer blade setter?

I have replaced the blades in both my SIP P/T and Delta thicknesser and only needed a spanner, allen key and a ruler. For the SIP, I simply lay the ruler on the outfeed table and lock the blades with them just touching it - if they are raised above the table as recommended in the manual (which makes no logical sense to me), one gets snipe in my experience (which does make sense).

I really can't see why a setter is needed and hope someone can explain clearly

You're absolutely right--it's not needed, it's a convenience. IMO not worth £50, but worth £5 and 1/2 hr. labour to save time in the future. It's like having an extra pair of hands.

Brad

 

[Anonymous]

but if you have a thickness/planer, then for the thicknesser part your blades MUST be leveled exactly with your cutter block, the table plays no part in it?

So i set my knives using a small jig which works off the block and then set the outfeed table level with the block also.

If the knives were perfectly in line with the out feed table but my outfeed table was not level with the block then I'd be happily planing, but getting off results when thicknessing 30 mins later.

I think.

This is handy http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11093

 

[mailee]

I have just made wrightclan's setting jig and although I haven't used it yet think it will do the job a treat. My planer doesn't heve any springs under the blades so would be a right pain to set. Looking forward to trying it when I have time.