plane technique

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A wheel gauge or cutting gauge -ie with blade should be less prone to follow the grain that a marking gauge with pin, or a pin ground to a bevelled edge.

Cheers Mike.
 
mr":24sax3cw said:
A wheel gauge or cutting gauge -ie with blade should be less prone to follow the grain that a marking gauge with pin, or a pin ground to a bevelled edge.

Cheers Mike.

Mike.....depends what sort of gauges you use :wink: - Rob
 
woodbloke":2mk3rqi1 said:
Mike.....depends what sort of gauges you use :wink: - Rob
And then there's always a pencil in the end like my panel gauge :)

Cheers Mike
 
more developments, i am finally getting the convex side almost finished, i have decided i need more light in the workshop, and a way of checking the straightness without removing the wood from the bench dogs, to minimise spring. all that bending makes me think the new bench is too low for that job, still :lol:

what i have decided though is that my bu LV's were not properly sharp, so i have re fettled them and got even better cutting and shavings. :twisted:

i also have reminded myself that the one thing i learnt as a metal work apprentice about the longer the file the more easily it was to get things flat and square. the same applies with the planes. but when you are fettling a curved piece it is important to ensure that you stop the plane rocking at the curved intersection. that i think is a practice thing as much as anything else. next thing is to learn about checking windage. must either make or buy some winding sticks. anyone tried the axminster ally ones. are they any good???

thanks again for all the input
paul :wink:
 
Paul rather than clamp the boards betweeh bench dogs, have you tried using a planing stop? One end of the board remains "free" and it means you can flip the board over to test straightness against your bench top. This is how I do it. Bench dogs might be useful for scrubbing diagonal to the grain and when you start flattening a panel (again diagonal to the grain) but even then not neccesary .

Cheers Mike
 
interesting mike, had not tried recently because of experience with the d thing moving, but now i am more confident again, because of the practice.
there i have said it it takes practice :cry: :twisted:

will try later and see how i feel about it. must get more into the full and free flow i guess :lol:

paul :wink:
 
engineer one":3n3te2b3 said:
must either make or buy some winding sticks. anyone tried the axminster ally ones. are they any good???

Just get two pieces of wood, say 2"x1"x18", clamp them together on the bench top and plane them up. They don't even have to be perfect, but need to be the same (which is why you should plane them together). In use, keep the orientation the same (so mark them) and off you go :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Paul Chapman":39qg24ny said:
Just get two pieces of wood, say 2"x1"x18", clamp them together on the bench top and plane them up. They don't even have to be perfect, but need to be the same (which is why you should plane them together). In use, keep the orientation the same (so mark them) and off you go :wink:

As a further hint, a dark one and a light one makes it easier to see. If you have two light ones, I hear that marking one of them along the corner with a sharpie achieves the same thing.
 
Paul Kierstead":2wygq6ly said:
Paul Chapman":2wygq6ly said:
Just get two pieces of wood, say 2"x1"x18", clamp them together on the bench top and plane them up. They don't even have to be perfect, but need to be the same (which is why you should plane them together). In use, keep the orientation the same (so mark them) and off you go :wink:

As a further hint, a dark one and a light one makes it easier to see. If you have two light ones, I hear that marking one of them along the corner with a sharpie achieves the same thing.

Agree, on my mahogany sticks I've put a strip of white melamine plastic along the top of one to sight against. There is also a bevel along the top of each one so they can only be used one way as a matched pair - Rob
 

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