Plane set-up

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Big Fat Pig

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31 Dec 2007
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Hi, I`m a newbie on here and have just bought myself a Stanley No 5 plane.Just before xmas i was browsing through the magazines in Smiths and saw an article on sharpening/setting up a plane. Not thinking i would be buying one for a while i put the mag back down .(Plonker !!) Does anyone have the magazine or just the article that i could scrounge please ?
Thanks
 
Hi BFP,

Sorry I can't help you out with the article, but if you get in touch with the publishers they might be able to send you a back issue?

The No 5 is a good all rounder, you can smooth with it, shoot with it, joint and flatten with a reasonable degree of success, or even use it for its original intended purpose of trimming off the crests left by a scrub plane.

How you set it up depends largely on which of these functions you intend to use it for, but the first thing I would do is have a go with some scrap timber and establish in your own mind what you like and don't like about it now. Try planing a board as hollow as you can, then as flat and square as you can to begin with, then try to get the surface perfectly smooth.

There's bags of good information here on the forum, so doing a search for 'plane tuning' and reading through a few old posts will provide you with a lot of information about how to change specific characteristics. There is a broad base of knowledge provided by some very experienced hands, and if you get stuck you can post a message and wait for help to arrive.
 
Thanks Mat,

I`m a bit of a plane virgin to be honest, not having used one since schooldays ( back in the `70s) so i`m not exactly sure what i fully want from this plane. I was driven to buying it as i have just built a fire surround from old reclaimed timber and had a devil of a job jointing the edges satisfactorily with my power tools. And i can`t recall what `shooting` means, is this the planing of end grain ?
Anyway, the weekend will see some action in the workshop, the blade needs a bit of attention from the oilstone and then it`s chocks away.

Thanks again,

Piggy
 
I use a jack for hogging off material fast. If I want straight and true I use a trying plane, If I want to smooth I use a smoother. The Jack is for rough work, which makes it a doddle to set up.

Whatever use you put it to you'll want it sharp. A good camber on the edge is ideal for a jack.

No need to flatten the sole unless it's really badly warped, in which case send it back or chuck it in the bin.

The chip breaker should be set further from the pointy end of the blade than normal. Closer than 1/8th inch will likely lead to clogging.

If needs be, adjust the frog so there is ample gap between the edge of the plane iron and the front of the mouth. Chances are it came with a huge gap, which is just right.

Tweak the lateral and depth adjuster so the shavings are as thick and even as you can manage and still push the plane with an even stroke.

A big chunky replacement blade will be stiffer, good news for hogging off extra thick shavings. You'll almost certainly need to file the front of the mouth wider to accommodate it comfortably - you can't have too wide a mouth on a jack. David C. (who's probably having kittens about now) recommends filing the front of the mouth so you end up with a slight bevel to aid the escape of shavings to the front of the plane. Sometimes the depth adjuster won't be long enough to engage with the chip breaker with a thick blade, which is a bum.

Strip the nasty goo off the handles, sand and finish with oil, then paste wax. Then rub paste wax into the sole and the kiddies slide and buff.

Win.


Shooting refers to the use of shooting board to aid the trimming of edges and end grain.
 
BFP - Mr J is quite correct, a No5 jack can be used in this way and if used like this doesn't require a great deal of 'setting up', the main thing being to have a reasonable camber on the blade and to make sure that it's sharp. However, you'll find that a traditional woodie with a 50mm cutter will do this sort of work with less effort and will take off shavings almost as thick as a leather belt... still needs a bit of push though, but will do it. I have my metal jack (LA Veritas) set up to take a more refined cut, so that if I were removing a large amount of material, the woodie is used first and I would stop maybe 1mm away from the gauge line and then I would use the metal planes to come down and finish on it - Rob
 
Your on the slippery slope now BFP, by next weekend you'll have bought a No4.

Just out of interest where did you purchase the No 5?
 
Wow, lots of info there. Thanks chaps.I bought the plane off Ebay for £16, which seems about right from what ive read on here.The condition is fair, there is a long scratch on the sole from behind the blade, not too deep and i don`t think will affect the cut.There is a small nick in the blade around the start of the scratch, obviously hit a nail or something.A bit of sharpening and a rub over of the sole will see it right i think. As for getting camber on the blade, i think thats a bit advanced for me just yet, if i manage to get the thing sharp i`ll be happy for now. :shock:
Thanks again for the help, i`m off now to sit in front of the fire to read my woodwork books so i know what frogs, cap irons, chippers,lateral adjusters and woodies are.
:)
 
BenchPlanesIllus.jpg
 
BFP - Mr J has posted a very good diagram of a section thru' a standard bedrock pattern plane which may very well be different to your Stanley No5 in the way that the 'frog' is fixed to the main casting of the plane. If you take yours apart you'll find that there are two bolts that hold the frog onto the casting instead of 'hold down pins' and a 'woodie' is simply another term for an all wooden plane, similar in style to the one in my avatar, but maybe a fraction shorter :wink: and with a different style of handle - Rob
 
Big Fat Pig

The mag article you are looking for is in Woodworking Plans & Projects Issue 10-Jan 08.

No 5. is a great all rounder-virtues of its length and I also like the bit of extra weight.

I will try to get a chance to scan the article and send. Shops should still have one ot two though and there are one or two other good articles in it(chest of Drawers plans etc.)I will also send a link to a couple of good basic plane tuning sites when I get a chance to dig them out.

Dan
 
More info, so more thanks. Dan, i tried WH Smith but they are now selling Febs issue of `plans & projects` and all the old ones have been sent back. I DID buy this issue though, as it carries on the series about setting up, and guess what? they are using a Stanley No 5 as an example.!
Thanks to you all for your help/advice.I`m glad i found this site.

Piggy.
 

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