Plane makers floats

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Another good reason to go to the MAC Timbers event on the 30th November then...

You can probably ask him...he's usually there and Mike is calling him to check to see if he can make it again.

Jim
 
Jimi: Two thoughts:

1. can you use a small diamond plate on the float, instead of a saw file, to reduce wear to the sharpening tool? Not owning a float, I was wondering how you sharpen it - do you flatten the angled "back" of the "tooth" or what?

2. Would your "90deg bevel" chisel work wth a very slight bevel - say 3deg off a right angle - or are you setting it up like a scraper? It looks like a nice precision way of cleaning up certain types of surface.

E.
 
Eric The Viking":3c3mvcu3 said:
Jimi: Two thoughts:

1. can you use a small diamond plate on the float, instead of a saw file, to reduce wear to the sharpening tool? Not owning a float, I was wondering how you sharpen it - do you flatten the angled "back" of the "tooth" or what?

2. Would your "90deg bevel" chisel work wth a very slight bevel - say 3deg off a right angle - or are you setting it up like a scraper? It looks like a nice precision way of cleaning up certain types of surface.

E.

Watcha "Eric"....

I am currently trying to put my hands on the diamond plate I have...little credit card one...and I'll have a go mate and report back..but frankly..it's soddin' sharp as it is with the file. The Nicholson as I say..does not appear to have suffered in the encounter.

The chisel is definitely a scraper so no..a bevel would destroy the effect methinks. Check out Bill's techniques page...it is rather special what he uses all sorts of profile chisels to do...and the best thing is..they are "knackered" anyway...love it!

Jimi
 
I thought I had a good idea when I tried sharpening my float with a triangular slip store, but the results were not so good as a saw file -don't really understand why.

With regards filing technique, I treated it like a thick rip saw.

I have exchanged PMs with Noel Liogier, nice chap. But I'm no nearer to understanding why it didn't work well out of the box - the grey coatings or paint is my suspicion.
 
Not a Logier Float. Just ordered the Luthier Rasp in Sapphire. Looking forward to trialling it.


Rectangular cross-section, this model has a fine stitching grain (#11) on one side and very fine (#13) one on the other side . Its integrated handle improves its manoeuvrability Used for many finishing works in violin making, but also in woodworking and furniture restoration. Width 25 mm, thickness 4 mm, hand-stitched length 200 mm.

Stewie;

http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.c ... thier.html
 
Not sure if this helps, but I bought some lie Nielsen floats a while back, and strait from the manufacturer they would not have cut butter, but a quick touch up with a saw file transformed them. Having said that I still prefer Bills square edged chisel method for final bedding of the iron on bench planes.
Cheers, Richard
 
Hi Richard. I found the same thing when I purchased the LN Bed and Side Floats. I am not totally convinced the tooth shape on these floats are overly compatible with the hardwood beds I generally work with. That's the primary reason I am keen to try out Logiers flat Luthier Rasp with the Sapphire finish. The hand stitched teeth should enable me a much more effective cutting action.

Stewie;
 
Re the square ground chisel.

Salaman in Dictionary of Tools, under plane making tools, mentions a chisel with the end ground off square but only by 3mm, ie the 90 degree "bevel" is 3mm high. So it seems it's an established tool, and if you're going to do this to a chisel, you don't need to grind off the whole existing bevel.
 

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