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Thank you for the information. I already have tool for shaping and cutting out necks, I was thinking specifically of gauges to mark out where the frets go. I will eventually make jigs for routing truss rod cavities when I am ready to make my first neck. I was also thinking I needed fret files. It looks like I maybe picking up another plane sooner than I thought lol.
Aye, I admit the wee fret end file is a nice tool, mine went away ner to be seen again with some nut files.
Ive got one of those stainless diamond fancy ones which I still have, it definitely wasn't what I was expecting and doesn't seem a great tool to me.
The chamfering/bevelling can be done with a single cut file, like a "farmers own" file for lawnmower blades and such, some are wider than others which is nice if you wish to make a block for holding it.

Seems there are a few sellers in the UK nowadays, and maybe Greece, and likely elsewhere.
Might find some more European links if you use the keyword Mandinter.
Hope that helps a bit

All the best
Tom
 
D_W
Sir, ur wife must be like mine....very tollerant of my excess's....
Sure be lost without her.....and she's a good'un in the workshop.....

Well, she actually hates them. I've argued kicking and screaming along the way that the bottom part of the house is my domain and that making things and experimenting and examining things in volume and then moving them on is just about my only vice. So, she's not like your wife, but I have done all of this stuff, anyway! If I were weak willed, none would've been allowed. Just being honest!
 
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anyone have any idea of age of this sranley 4 it has a chapman tools by stanley decal on tote I know stanley took over j a chapman in 1937 I also used to work at the woodside site from when Stanley's took over rabone chesterman and they killed the quality and name within 10 years
 
well, I'd never even considered that and will be making one of those. I've always cut the finial with a coping saw and then chiseled and scraped it to final finish knowing that at some point I"ll make a larger set of planes than a pair of H&Rs at a time and will want to make the wedge stock in a block and the resaw into wedges.

Thanks for that! May not be a great idea for a beginner, but it's dandy for a planemaker.
Generally, for a couple of reasons I believe the wedges were tapered and fitted into the plane before notching.
This allows you to use the waste (enough for two) that is created when cutting away the upper body.
The video evidence is here at 20.46

Although, the plane in the video has been altered and no longer uses the fence on the clamp to guide the plane but an integrated guide running off the wedge tops.
Cheers Andy
 
Ooh Andy, you’ve gone straight through ‘special interest’ and out the other side with that.

Anyway, I was trying to work out the front half, looks like a nicker but is it just hammer set, no wedge?

Cheers
Phil
Thanks Phil, yes just hammer set without a wedge.
There's another plane while develops the rest of the curve on this face.
Cheers
 
Generally, for a couple of reasons I believe the wedges were tapered and fitted into the plane before notching.
This allows you to use the waste (enough for two) that is created when cutting away the upper body.
The video evidence is here at 20.46

Although, the plane in the video has been altered and no longer uses the fence on the clamp to guide the plane but an integrated guide running off the wedge tops.
Cheers Andy


what he's doing is exactly what I do (I have a small jig that holds a blank that has no finial at the top so that I can plane the wedge to thickness quickly). He must have a different fixture for wedges for skewed planes.
 
I've just picked up another two planes, a Stanley No 5 1/2 and a No 7
5 1/2 is a late one "Ribs on bed".silvery fixings and wheel are later issues compared to brass.
No7 is that a USA made one? looks good check around mouth/sides for hairline cracks it is a later US one which should have thicker sides and better casting than ancient ones!. Blade looks good wider Square top. Knob style denotes later over older low knob types and think looks more in the sweeter spot where better made but not cheaper parts/lower quality steel.
Ive the same'ish 5 1/2 weighs a ton but planes well was a £20 job on ebay mind also picked up a nice no4 boxed with everything inc receipt box i'd never seen before it's a sort of beige/cream colour with print all over compared to orangey one and instructions are in old type face think just post war? as has 60 right at bottom in one corner in tiny type.
I got an 1850's no6 other week but bit too fragile so swapped with friend who didn't have one in his Harem of tools!(Lot's)for a Millers Falls no6/18 as have a 9 and now 2 10's(4, 4 1/2)It needs right cap iron someones stuck a no4 stanley on it! and blades a bit fraught as someones scuffed it with grinder so one of the 10's going to be used. Just restored handles as finish was bits of lacquer here and there so rubbed down stained and going to get a coat of something!.
 
My collection so far....
Your lot looks a bit like mine have similar wooden coffin plane plus i have a long one like a 6ish.also have similar plough/combi plane.
I bought a job lot which they came in with a boxed no3 plus coping saw old fret saw.record 043 cutters.old Stanley ratcheting brace plus a load of other bits like dial height stand with third hands clamps and more plus an old cabinet with double doors which is pretty old.
 
Your lot looks a bit like mine have similar wooden coffin plane plus i have a long one like a 6ish.also have similar plough/combi plane.
I bought a job lot which they came in with a boxed no3 plus coping saw old fret saw.record 043 cutters.old Stanley ratcheting brace plus a load of other bits like dial height stand with third hands clamps and more plus an old cabinet with double doors which is pretty old.
Wow, that sounds like quite a find.
 
5 1/2 is a late one "Ribs on bed".silvery fixings and wheel are later issues compared to brass.
No7 is that a USA made one? looks good check around mouth/sides for hairline cracks it is a later US one which should have thicker sides and better casting than ancient ones!. Blade looks good wider Square top. Knob style denotes later over older low knob types and think looks more in the sweeter spot where better made but not cheaper parts/lower quality steel.
Ive the same'ish 5 1/2 weighs a ton but planes well was a £20 job on ebay mind also picked up a nice no4 boxed with everything inc receipt box i'd never seen before it's a sort of beige/cream colour with print all over compared to orangey one and instructions are in old type face think just post war? as has 60 right at bottom in one corner in tiny type.
I got an 1850's no6 other week but bit too fragile so swapped with friend who didn't have one in his Harem of tools!(Lot's)for a Millers Falls no6/18 as have a 9 and now 2 10's(4, 4 1/2)It needs right cap iron someones stuck a no4 stanley on it! and blades a bit fraught as someones scuffed it with grinder so one of the 10's going to be used. Just restored handles as finish was bits of lacquer here and there so rubbed down stained and going to get a coat of something!.
Thanks for the info, would you be able to put date in the 5 1/2. It has brass fixings not steel, the lighting makes them look pale. The No 7 is indeed made in USA and there are no cracks anywhere, both work like a dream. I`ve cleaned them up and put wax on them to protect them from the humidity and they are stored in plastic containers over the winter months. I on looking for about three more planes and then I will build a plane till/cabinet to put them all in.
 
Thanks for the info, would you be able to put date in the 5 1/2. It has brass fixings not steel, the lighting makes them look pale. The No 7 is indeed made in USA and there are no cracks anywhere, both work like a dream. I`ve cleaned them up and put wax on them to protect them from the humidity and they are stored in plastic containers over the winter months. I on looking for about three more planes and then I will build a plane till/cabinet to put them all in.
Put some pics up of it all round inc frog without blade/cap. Later blades have angle marked>in mm's and narrower rounded tops as progressed from what ive found out mind that's if not had bits swapped out!
Handles are they wood or resin?

There are a few websites that list types and changes mind many pesky sites try to take you to poxy Amazon as listing under false pretences.
 
Put some pics up of it all round inc frog without blade/cap. Later blades have angle marked>in mm's and narrower rounded tops as progressed from what ive found out mind that's if not had bits swapped out!
Handles are they wood or resin?

There are a few websites that list types and changes mind many pesky sites try to take you to poxy Amazon as listing under false pretences.
Sorry I've taken so long, here are some photos. I hope they provide enough info for you. Oh and the hand;es are wood not resin.
 

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This is my latest acquisition. A Record No 405 dated from the sixties I believe.
 

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Sorry I've taken so long, here are some photos. I hope they provide enough info for you. Oh and the hand;es are wood not resin.
Hi that's a late'ish one. Stanley down the lever. Ribs on top of sole/base.Steps in top/back of frog.Narrower top of blade.
But if works ok use it similar to mine.
 
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