Plane Conundrum

[ByronBlack]

Hi

I have a small conundrum. I received the Maranti for the greenhouse project that i'm about to start today, and although it's PAR it does need some final smoothing.

I have a pretty decent 4 1/2 stanley smoother, but the blade is pretty knackered, it only has a quater of an inch left on the blade and has some quite large 'knicks' in it. So instead of trying to grind it out I would like to get a replacement. (Hock or Clifton)

However, i'm very tempted by the Veritas bevel up jointer (I do need a jointer).

Is it worth my buying a new blade for the stanley, or should I just go for the jointer, and use that for that smoothing?

 

[Lord Nibbo]

You should ask your swmbo, not us :lol: :lol: You know what you "really really want" :lol: :lol: Welcome to the slope Byron. :lol: :wink:

 

[ByronBlack]

Nibbo, to be honest SWMBO isn't fussed aslong as she gets her greenhouses. I'm just trying to justify it myself, as I like the stanley, but have to think that if I buy the LV jointer, would it be become redundant? or would I still need it? If so, then it's worth my upgrading the blade and getting the jointer at another stage, i can't afford to do both, espeically as I need a half-decent block plane for endgrain work.

 

[Philly]

Go for the jointer BB! You'll appreciate it a lot when making your greenhouse.
Cheers
Philly

 

[paulm]

I would think there is a fair chance that the timber, despite being par, will need some additional straightening before use, and I would go for the jointer as a result.

The jointer can probably get close to the finish of the smoother, with a bit of care and unless the timber is really difficult to work, but the smoother won't be able to get things straight unless they are very short lengths.

Go for the jointer, make sure everything is as straight and parallel as you can get it, and then your joints should be that much easier and better.

You can always smooth afterwards with some sandpaper :shock: :lol:

Cheers, Paul.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Go for the jointer BB! You'll appreciate it a lot when making your greenhouse.
Cheers
Philly

Got to agree, then when it's delivered he can order the new blade for the stanley. :lol:

 

[ByronBlack]

Thanks for the feedback and reasoned advice - I think i'll go for the jointer.

Now, here's a question: Would the LV jointer give me as good a finish as my Stanley 4 1/2? If it does, then I don't have to bother with a replacement blade and can save the cash for a BUS.

And finally, would the Jointer be too heavy for use on the shooting board?

 

[mr]

I may be wrong but I don't think you can use the LV bevel up jointer on a shooting board because of the "wings" on the sides. I haven't seen one in the flesh though so as I say I may be talking through my hat.

Cheers Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

And finally, would the Jointer be too heavy for use on the shooting board?

No. I regularly use a #6 or #7 on my shooting boards - I find they work much better than shorter planes.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS Just looked at the BriMarc website and I think mr might be right about that particular model being unsuitable for shooting board use.

 

[ByronBlack]

Hmm, so, if I can't use the jointer for shooting, how about the 4 1/2 - would that be an option, or would you say it's too short?

 

[Paul Chapman]

You can use any normal bench plane (or block plane for that matter) on a shooting board, as long as it's an appropriate size for the piece of wood. I just find that for me the bigger planes work better. I find that the increased weight helps and the longer length gives a nice bearing on the shooting board.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[ByronBlack]

Thanks for that paul. So it seems, that generally, 'weight' is good for shooting, well the 4 1/2 is slightly wider than a regular 4 is a bit heavier so it seems it might be a good idea to eventually replace the blade in this and have it as a dedicated shooting board plane that's it sorted then. LV Joiinter is now ordered, and a new blade will be purchased next month for the stanley. Cheers for all your help guy's, i've finally after many months taken the step and finally bought a proper jointer..

 

[Jake]

It's the smoother (the BUS) that has non-flat cheeks.

 

[Paul Chapman]

So it seems, that generally, 'weight' is good for shooting

Yes, that's my experience. When using the plane on a shooting board, your grip is different because you obviously can't hold the handle of the plane. I find that if you keep the base of the shooting board polished (I use Liberon wax polish), and use a heavy plane with the blade very sharp and finely set, you can get a nice momentum going and the plane works really well, even on end grain of very hard wood. Lighter planes will work, but not as sweetly I find. I've concluded that the lighter the plane the more it will be inclined to get deflected when it meets the resistance of the wood being planed. But like all things, it's a matter of trying it out and seeing what works best with the tools you have.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Alf]

It's the smoother (the BUS) that has non-flat cheeks.

And the jointer. Personally I feel that was a mistake on LV's part because a significant number of people do like to use a jointer for shooting, but I think it came down to the price point issue.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Jake]

It's the smoother (the BUS) that has non-flat cheeks.

And the jointer.

So it does.