Plane Cabinet - WIP!!!

[Orcamesh]

Thanks Eoin & John

Sorry I didn't see Rob's comments on the frame & panel suggestion. Now I've read all the comments about this it makes total sense, so thanks also to Rob!

So I will try to do the same now in Ash. 10mm rebate with 10mm thick frame having ~8mm T&G panels. The panels sitting in 4mm grooves in the frame. I will use the bridle joint for the frame corners as suggested by Rob, again using 4mm wide slots.

As for the dovetails, yes I agree, it makes perfect sense. I am not sure why Joyce & even Wearing's books show examples where the tails are in the top/bottom parts, but anyway. For this purpose as it will be wall mounted it is best to have them as you have done.

For fixing to the wall I am going to use an old router bit I've got which cuts a keyhole like this one
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/35_0X1_4TC/4/117/keyhole_slotter.html

this way I can add as many anchor points as I need to hold it up!!

Anyway, thanks very much all and I must say I am very impressed with your work on your cabinet, it's looking great.

cheers
Steve

 

[eoinsgaff]

Thank you very much Steve. I think the 'keyhole' approach to supporting the unit is a great idea and will probably end up on the final arrangement.

Eoin

 

[Benchwayze]

Steve,

Looking forward to seeing your ash cabinet. One of my fave timbers too. Should look the business when it's done.
Be Happy and Lucky

John

 

[woodbloke]

If it's of any help to see what a half-decent back panel looks like:

this is the back of a little elm chest that I did a few years ago. The carcass was made and the back rebate routed, with the corners then squared out...it's around 12mm deep but I reckon 10mm is about the thinnest you could get away with. The corner joints on the frame are hand cut bridles but could be Domino'd if you have one. Were I to do them again I'd use machine cut bridles instead. Each of the panels is around 8mm thick (I think) and is made from a bookmatched pair with a central muntin in the frame. I know that nobody will see it when the chest is against the wall, but if you're doing a decent piece, it gives piece of mind to know that the back panel is in keeping with the rest. If I'd use a piece of veneered ply it would have irritated me, but the overall visual effect would have been very similar - Rob

 

[Benchwayze]

That looks good enough to be the front Rob. I just thought you had forgotten to fix some pulls!
Nice looking cabinet, especially in the wood, so to speak!

regards
John

 

[Orcamesh]

I'll start a WIP soon, at the moment I am still scratching my head though! Only a few boards part planed prepared (not final thickness yet) and which have been in stick since last October in the house. Anyway, progress will happen soon...

Rob, that elm chest of yours is amazing, I can only dream of being able to achieve this sort of standard. I have much to learn. But it certainly helps, so thanks for that. I will be machining most if not all of my joints as I have limited hand tools. I do have a few planes but no router planes or other specialist planes. I notice that your frame & muntin parts are quite wide, I am still dithering over how wide mine should be for an 800 wide by 500mm tall cabinet. Whatever I do, you will see the frame and panels from the glass side of the cabinet of course, so whatever I do it has to look good too! No pressure!

Eoin, glad the keyhole idea is of use. It is a great little router bit for making flush fitting wall mounted items. I have used it on numerous simple shelves.

John, I hope my Ash lives up to your expectations, time will tell!!

thanks all
Steve

 

[woodbloke]

I notice that your frame & muntin parts are quite wide, I am still dithering over how wide mine should be for an 800 wide by 500mm tall cabinet. Whatever I do, you will see the frame and panels from the glass side of the cabinet of course, so whatever I do it has to look good too! No pressure!

thanks all
Steve

Steve, it really doesn't matter as long as you have adequate gluing area in the joints. On a cabinet 800x500mm I guess anywhere between 45 and 65mm would do, depending on what material you've got...it's certainly not a critical feature and won't have any structural part to play in the finished piece, but if they're too narrow (say less than 40mm) it'll look a bit skinny when it's seen from the inside - Rob

 

[Chems]

If it's of any help to see what a half-decent back panel looks like:

I was looking at that; yes thats nice, thats the front, wheres the picture of the back then? =D>

 

[eoinsgaff]

Ha ha, exactly. It tool me a while to realize it was the back too

Eoin

 

[woodbloke]

Ha ha, exactly. It tool me a while to realize it was the back too

Eoin

...the first pic was the back, this is the front:

just so there's no confusion :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[eoinsgaff]

Nearly finished.

Just the glass front to attach when ready. On order.

Finally the cabinet filled for purpose. Just a space left for a LV LA Jack. At least thats the plan.

Eoin

 

[woodbloke]

Nice job done there...back panel looks good too =D> when viewed from the front - Rob

 

[Orcamesh]

Eoin, it's looking fantastic, lovely job. I feel absolutely no pressure whatsoever!! :shock: I don't think the timber I have for my panels are anywhere near as nice, but I'm sure my son won't mind!

What have you used for a finish?

Keep up the great work!
Steve

 

[woodbloke]

I don't think the timber I have for my panels are anywhere near as nice
Steve

If you've got thicker material that can be bookmatched it's surprising what you thought an insignificant piece of timber will turn out like - Rob

 

[eoinsgaff]

Thanks lads,

Must say I'm glad to be finished. The glass is proving a problem, not to get but I thought I had an agreed price of about €50 and I'm now being asked for over €100. The chances...

Steve, the finish is three coats of danish oil on the oak and wax on both the oak and ash. Not ideal for this type of cabinet but about all I had the patience for.

Now, whats going to be the next project?

Eoin.

 

[woodbloke]

Now, whats going to be the next project?

Eoin.

Now that the plane cabinet is done n'dusted, how about something with a bit of subtle curvature? Straight and square is good, but putting some curves into a project ramps it up to the next level - Rob

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Eoin,

Is the cabinet open fronted? Or have I missed a picture somewhere of the doors/shutters or whatever you used to cover?

John

 

[Chems]

Piece of glass is going in.

Just the glass front to attach when ready. On order.

 

[Benchwayze]

OK Thanks Chems...
I hope it's going to be one of Pilkington's floral patternS. To go with all that shiny jewellery inside :lol: :lol: :lol:

Regards
John