Pits in my turning

[A.Turner]

Thanks for all the suggestions, so many things to consider!

I am going to Axminster Nuneaton tomorrow and will take a piece with me. I'm getting their sharpening jig and also a pink stone.

 

[Dave Brookes]

Take your tools with you so that they can demonstrate how good the equipment is; then you will have had them 'expertly' sharpened!

Dave

 

[leisurefix]

The timber looks a bit like Tulip wood, I have found this wood extremely difficult to cut cleanly when dry (cuts lovely when wet though), and had similar break out, reminded me of balsa wood. It was possible to get a reasonable finish by using the gouge on its side a bit so that the cutting edge was at about 45 degrees from vertical, so making a more skewed slice. Just treat it as a test piece for style/design, and turning technique, then burn it. Using difficult timbers can be quite good as you will have to have really good technique, but it can also be really frustrating if you try and produce a perfect item.

 

[KimG]

Getting a clean cut on end grain like that is very tricky and if the wood is punky (half rotted) then no matter how sharp the tool, you will still get some tear out (the pits).

One tool I have found that does make the very best end grain cuts with absolute minimal tear out though is based on Cindy Drozda's Vortex tool. I made my own from carbon steel and it cuts very well indeed, but the actual product she sells is almost certainly going to be a lot better still if it's within your budget.

Video of the tool.

 

[A.Turner]

The wood is a common tree from a colleagues house out in the country, I don't remember what though.

I bought the sharpening jig and a white stone. On the existing pieces I could clean up the pits on most surfaces, but the steep cut on the one piece is still pitted. I will try and do a new piece this evening and see what results I get.

 

[Dalboy]

Getting a clean cut on end grain like that is very tricky and if the wood is punky (half rotted) then no matter how sharp the tool, you will still get some tear out (the pits).

One tool I have found that does make the very best end grain cuts with absolute minimal tear out though is based on Cindy Drozda's Vortex tool. I made my own from carbon steel and it cuts very well indeed, but the actual product she sells is almost certainly going to be a lot better still if it's within your budget.

Video of the tool.

That looks like a great tool will have to make one.

 

[A.Turner]

That has made a noticeable difference but I find it is still pitting on the ends where I used a parting tool to make the ends straight (I saw the stubs off) and also in the bottom of steep cuts where I guess it is turning into end grain.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlTaNq9lO...WVg/DVxzRVsxL8A/s1600/2015-08-25+17.31.12.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S_ogoEgwR...WVc/UIEbNso-iE0/s1600/2015-08-25+17.31.31.jpg

I think I may have found a local place where I can get some regular help https://www.facebook.com/umakeworkshop, see what happens when/if I go.

 

[Dalboy]

That has made a noticeable difference but I find it is still pitting on the ends where I used a parting tool to make the ends straight (I saw the stubs off) and also in the bottom of steep cuts where I guess it is turning into end grain.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlTaNq9lO...WVg/DVxzRVsxL8A/s1600/2015-08-25+17.31.12.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S_ogoEgwR...WVc/UIEbNso-iE0/s1600/2015-08-25+17.31.31.jpg

I think I may have found a local place where I can get some regular help https://www.facebook.com/umakeworkshop, see what happens when/if I go.

This is where the skew chisel comes into it own but you would need to use the parting toll a little away from the end and use a very sharp skew chisel to clean the ends

 

[heronviewer]

I'm interested in the vortex tool - it looks useful - but I'm not going to buy one at that price ! It would be fairly easy to make, harden and temper but I wonder about the shape.
Unfortunately http://www.cindydrozda.com/Assets/html/ ... pening.pdf gives a 404 and is not available any more. Anyone got a copy of the pdf or the details of the shape and would be willing to passs them on ?

Robert.

 

[Rhossydd]

I'm interested in the vortex tool -/.../ is not available any more.

The route to it has changed, it's now at http://www.cindydrozda.com/handouts_Pdf ... pening.pdf

Although the photos aren't really good enough to really work out the subtleties of the shape and cutting geometry.

I'm not sure that this particular tool would help the OP with his particular problem though. The Vortex is designed specifically for work on tiny finials.
From what I can see and have read here; the OP's main issue is not using the most appropriate tool for the cut and not having sufficiently sharp tools either, with poor quality timber being the final aspect that prevents success.

 

[A.Turner]

What would be good timber and more importantly where do I get it? I have asked this before elsewhere and nobody can point me to a supplier in Birmingham.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you have to buy wood for turning, look at Home of Wood (on line) - they do some decent offers and good prices. Nice quality stuff, as well.

 

[A.Turner]

Interesting, I'll have a better look/drool when I get home. Thanks for that.

 

[Dave Brookes]

Have a look on the AWGB Website, there are at least three clubs in the Birmingham area and I would be amazed if you didn't get endless help from members.
If that is not the case then the offer of help from the Didcot Club still stands. We have a wood supplier who comes to our meetings with a plentiful assortment of timber for sale although it is pot luck as to what he brings.

Dave

 

[heronviewer]

Thank you !

Yes, the photographs are not really good enough to work it out. I'll try a bit of photo enhancing to see if I can get a better idea.

 

[Rhossydd]

Yes, the photographs are not really good enough to work it out. I'll try a bit of photo enhancing to see if I can get a better idea.

I doubt that'll help much.
I've just been watching Cindy's DVD on making finials and having seen it in use now, I'm still not completely sure I understand the exact geometry of that tool.

I think it's success is due to the niche nature of it. It only gets bought by experienced turners like KimG that already know how to put a perfect edge on it and how and when to use it. I don't think it would be a helpful purchase for a beginner that lacks the core skills of sharpening and tool selection.

 

[heronviewer]

It looks like a 25 degree bevel on the tip and sides rounded off to the full 6mm diameter with a flat on the top. I can't decide how pointed the very tip is.

I have a 3/16" gouge that I use sometimes but it will chatter unless I take very light cuts, which is what is recommended for the vortex tool. It seems to be just a very small pointed scraper to me and only useful in limited circumstances. Might be worth making one though.

 

[Rhossydd]

It seems to be just a very small pointed scraper to me

No, it's very specifically designed as a cutting tool not a scraper.
http://www.cindydrozda.com/html/Tool_Info.html
"The vortex tool is "a gouge with no flute and a skew with no heel". It can slice endgrain like a skew or make very clean vee-groove details and define the v-shaped space between beads. Excellent for finishing a bead next to a square pommel. Used for light finishing cuts.
Vortex is not to be used as a scraper."

only useful in limited circumstances. Might be worth making one though.

Quite. An awkward shape to grind nicely and symmetrically, but for the cost of a length of HSS rod, worth experimenting with the form to suit yourself.

 

[Silverbirch]

Post deleted

 

[Silverbirch]

What would be good timber and more importantly where do I get it? I have asked this before elsewhere and nobody can point me to a supplier in Birmingham.

Beech and sycamore are both good timbers to practice with and easy to get hold of, though I can`t tell you specifically where in your area.