Painting Woodwork to Last Outdoors?

[Sir Percy]

You get a surface mildewish dust if you don't clean them often, but it washes off. I presume it is mildew and not just dust. I don't know how effective the zinc is as I haven't tried it. Maybe I should have done!
NB this paint is not as shiny and self cleaning as modern gloss, but it does stay firmly stuck on, which is the important thing!

Great, thanks. It'll only be a small, accessible area.

 

[ColeyS1]

Just watched this vid
https://youtu.be/2Y8RPZVMdYU
She certainly seems impressed by the paint !


Coley

 

[screwpainting]

Bliss, just what I have been looking for. I have a mountain of elaborate gazebo's and trellis both existing and soon to be built that I think this paint will be perfect for.

Thanks for the info Jacob and that link Coley

Steve.

 

[Jacob]

It's different from modern paints. The main thing is to follow their instructions and brush it out very thin.

 

[Roughcut]

Just watched this video this morning where the "Restorative Carpenter" mentions the advantage of Linseed Oil paints:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5fhQstnHQE

 

[Jacob]

It's catching on slowly. There's a "real paint" movement developing - a bit like the real ale thing. Bound to happen because it really is much better then modern paints.
The main thing has been the realisation that it isn't the lead in old paints which gives it quality, it's the linseed oil.
Modern paint has been the death of trad joinery as once the old paint is removed its life is drastically shortened by modern paint.

 

[ColeyS1]

One thing the video did say was the cost of the paint, but heck, even if it lasted only 25 years (instead of the 50) it'd be amazing and more than worth it ! I'm looking forward to trying some

Coley

 

[Jacob]

One thing the video did say was the cost of the paint, but heck, even if it lasted only 25 years (instead of the 50) it'd be amazing and more than worth it ! I'm looking forward to trying some

Coley

Per tin it's expensive but it has fantastic covering power (has to be put on thin), needs no thinners, brush cleaners or even hand cleaners - soap and hot water gets it off if it hasn't been on too long.

 

[Sir Percy]

needs no thinners, brush cleaners or even hand cleaners - soap and hot water gets it off if it hasn't been on too long.

Hi again Jacob,

I'd read (on linseed oil paint in general) that turps or more raw linseed oil should be used to thin first coat on dense hardwood. Is that not so?

How do you clean your brushes?

Thanks

 

[screwpainting]

It's catching on slowly. There's a "real paint" movement developing - a bit like the real ale thing. Bound to happen because it really is much better then modern paints.
The main thing has been the realisation that it isn't the lead in old paints which gives it quality, it's the linseed oil.
Modern paint has been the death of trad joinery as once the old paint is removed its life is drastically shortened by modern paint.

Well, here's my tale of woe with paint. When I moved into my house it was about four years old and the owners had done nothing to it from new. Brilliant you may think, no bodges. Then I noticed how yellow the gloss work looked when compared to the new paint I was using, on I merrily went decorating every room in the house as you do. Six months or so later we are back to yellowing white again???. Apparently, according to my neighbor who is attached and bought his house from new, the builders idea of primer and undercoat was gloss and paraffin!!.

Being a lover of nice paintwork I set about ripping out all the original woodwork and doors right back to the door liners, and decorated the place properly. It looked fantastic and I was at last happy. I then bought an Irish Wolfhound pup! His one and only act of doggy destruction was to gnaw the first 12" of every door frame and newel post in the house in a teething orgy.
So, I then had the joy of repairing all this, which included a complete redecoration of our dining room. This had the boiler housed in it which I had just enclosed with a nice unit with glass shelves above, down lighting etc, and I have to say it looked a treat. So, all done and dusted! BUT, clearing up the last bits of carpet before a final hoover up I hear a strange rustling a noise coming from the boiler. 'Whats that' I wondered? so opened the doors, lifted the cover off and out flew a blackbird or it may have been a starling. This terrified bird shot out of the bottom of the boiler and flew in panic around the room and then the rest of the house. It had got down the boiler flue on the roof and as you know a boiler flue is full of the most intense black known to man and this sodding bird must have ricocheted off every surface possible. Ceilings, walls,wallpaper,curtains,you name it.

Then, just to round off the joy, I used Dulux satinwood ...Everywhere... Oh my god...I think most people will know how that has gone, yellowing, sticky,won't dry out properly and looks dirty in a matter of days (google it for more tales of woe)
It will all have to be done again one day, if I ever regain the will to live with decent paintwork

So, I hope I have made you feel that your experiences with paint could have been worse. I don't think mine could have been.

I just wonder what is wrong with Linseed paint... there must be something I should know first for a change.

 

[Selwyn]

Ive wondered about adding a liberon pigment to linseed oil and wondering why it wouldnt work as a paint. I have used oricalcum linseed paint and been very pleased

 

[Harbo]

My windows and outside doors have been painted with Sikkens HLS and Filter 7 for the last 30yrs or so.
Easy to maintain with a light sand and a coat of Filter7.
South facing probably every 4yrs but north facing hardly ever?
Dulux changed their spec on Trade Satinwood a year or so ago to prevent yellowing.
I've used it inside last year with no problems and no sign of yellowing.

Rod

 

[bugbear]

I just wonder what is wrong with Linseed paint... there must be something I should know first for a change.

Well, it was dropped like a hot potato, long ago (1920-1930, I think), so I suspect there may be some issues.

if was was as perfect as the current vendors and enthusiasts claim, it never would have gone away.

BugBear

 

[porker]

I was talking to a guy who restores wooden windows for a living (he's doing some work on my 100 yr+ windows right now). He is also an advocate of linseed paint but says that the economics of it are the reason he can't use it very often. It is not so much the cost of the paint itself although it is very expensive it is the process of putting it on and waiting for it to dry and then applying and waiting etc. that make it uneconomical.

I'm still weighing it up at the moment with a view to trying it (I will be applying it so the cost of this to me is negligible). Maybe I could do a side by side test with some more mainstream quality paint.

Interesting though he is not a fan of linseed oil putty and uses something else which name escapes me.

 

[Selwyn]

I just wonder what is wrong with Linseed paint... there must be something I should know first for a change.

Well, it was dropped like a hot potato, long ago (1920-1930, I think), so I suspect there may be some issues.

if was was as perfect as the current vendors and enthusiasts claim, it never would have gone away.

BugBear

i think it was about drying time and possibly glossiness

Certainly makes you think I've got a pitch pine wooden lintel that has only had oil and limewash for surely a century or more. And had a modern "hardwood" door from howdens that lasted 10 years under weathershield types.

 

[Rorschach]

I was talking to a guy who restores wooden windows for a living (he's doing some work on my 100 yr+ windows right now). He is also an advocate of linseed paint but says that the economics of it are the reason he can't use it very often. It is not so much the cost of the paint itself although it is very expensive it is the process of putting it on and waiting for it to dry and then applying and waiting etc. that make it uneconomical.

I'm still weighing it up at the moment with a view to trying it (I will be applying it so the cost of this to me is negligible). Maybe I could do a side by side test with some more mainstream quality paint.

Interesting though he is not a fan of linseed oil putty and uses something else which name escapes me.

Makes sense to me, time or rather labour is by far the biggest cost of just about any trade work these days.

 

[ColeyS1]

This makes interesting reading.
http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/holkh ... ld.370780/
Thanks to the poster for keeping his review of the different paints updated !
I stumbled across it after looking for a place to buy the paint. Reading lots and lots about it. The only downside I've found seems to be mould showing on white/light colours.
I found this other website http://www.linseedpaintcompany.co.uk/ that claim his paint doesn't suffer from the mould, also appears to dry slightly quicker too ?!
I've an outdoor bench to make using old scaffold boards. If I chose a darkish colour I think it'd be an ideal job to try it on.

Coley

 

[ColeyS1]

Also watched this https://youtu.be/x3XSQvabf0Y she makes removing the paint from the glass easy ! It'd certainly help stop water getting in between the glass and putty.

Coley

 

[bugbear]

I stumbled across it after looking for a place to buy the paint. Reading lots and lots about it. The only downside I've found seems to be mould showing on white/light colours.

So presumably the dark colours also get mould, but don't show it ?!

BugBear

 

[ColeyS1]

I stumbled across it after looking for a place to buy the paint. Reading lots and lots about it. The only downside I've found seems to be mould showing on white/light colours.

So presumably the dark colours also get mould, but don't show it ?!

BugBear

Yeah, pretty much I think

Coley