Outfeed table build for SIP t/s.

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martlewis

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Chesterfield, UK
Have been asking advice lately on building outfeed tables for which I thank you all for your help. Here is my build for a SIP 10" cast iron t/s.

The main problem is the fence on this saw locks at the back of the table so there has to be clearance for this, you'll see hat I mean towards the end of the build.

Here goes, sorry the camera quality isn't very good...


Removed the rear aluminium rail and attached some hinges I had lying around the shop. Attached a spare lump of wood to this also.

outfeed1.jpg



Just to the right you see my first attempt, the screw sheared off, took it steady after that.

outfeed2.jpg



With the rear rail back in place this is what you end up with.

outfeed3.jpg



Screwed on another piece of wood which gives the clearance for the fence and also raises the new table to the right level.

outfeed4.jpg



Rail in place once again with the new melamine attached.

outfeed5.jpg



The hinges are screwed onto the diagonal part of the rail.

outfeed6.jpg



The cleat that will hold the legin place, and another spare lump of wood to make the leg from.

outfeed7.jpg



Closeup of cleat with leg in place, will make more sense in next few pics.

outfeed8.jpg



Told you that cleat would make sense.

outfeed9.jpg



The bottom of the leg rests quite nicely on the mobile base, allows the saw to be moved with the outfeed still up.

outfeed10.jpg



A closeup of that clearance I had to leave for the rear lock on the fence.

outfeed11.jpg



And another.

outfeed12.jpg


Still a bit of work to do on it, have routed channels for the mitre guide now, and when I can find that damn edge banding I'll finish the edges of the table.

Martin.
 
Very nice idea martin. Makes me think if I should do somethin similar.

How are you getting on with your SIP by the way?
 
Slimjim81":1lwxq8ul said:
Very nice idea martin. Makes me think if I should do somethin similar.

How are you getting on with your SIP by the way?

The saw is great, the only complaint, like every saw seems to have, is the sloppy fit of the miter gauge. The EB-3 should arrive in a couple of weeks tho :lol:

Could I ask, did you have a problem with the finish on the edges of the cast table? The corners on mine were razor sharp and the gauge slot edges were the same. Had to get the Dremmel out and grind off the sharp corners. Cut myself twice on the edge of the table!


Martin
 
No, my table edges are not sharp. I did have to enlarge the right hand mitre slot slightly though as the mitre guage was binding a little. Used the Sip mitre guage, wrapped some w&d paper round the bar and slid it up and down the slot a few times. Perfect now.

I think that for the price of the saw, it has to be expected that certain parts are of lower quality.

One thing I would suggest is to get a dial guage and make sure that the mitre slot is parallel to the blade and flange on the arbour. Mine was about 1mm off. Doesn't sound much but it does make a difference. You should also make sure the fence is parallel to the slots.
 
Very nice, Martin
Have been thinking of making one too for over a year now but hadn't thought about attaching it to the rear fence rail - nice idea.
It's definitely on my list now!
Cheers
Stewart
 
Slimjim81":53xy7116 said:
One thing I would suggest is to get a dial guage and make sure that the mitre slot is parallel to the blade and flange on the arbour. Mine was about 1mm off. Doesn't sound much but it does make a difference. You should also make sure the fence is parallel to the slots.

How do I adjust the table if the blade isn't parallel?
 
Well done, Mart!
A very handy table-Like the support leg too. Guess it only takes a few seconds to put up/take down?
Cheers
Philly :D
 
martlewis":2y6d4afi said:
How do I adjust the table if the blade isn't parallel?

The table is mounted with 4 or 6 bolts (I can't remember which) If the mitre slots are not parallel, you just need loosen the bolts slightly and give it a few taps with a fine adjustment tool (hammer). Then recheck with the dial gauge. You will then need to tap it from the other side as you will probably have moved it too far. Then check it which dial gauge. then tap it from the first side cause you will have moved it to far the other way... etc.

Have a little look at these article/video
 
I'll dig out my best fine adjustment tool ](*,) ... that's gotta hurt, perhaps I'll use this one instead (hammer)

Timed it, 4 seconds to put the table up! I need to get a life :lol:
 

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