on off switch for router table

[devonwoody]

Thanks Jim,

 

[jimi43]

The switch I ordered arrived today and I have to say that it is a FAR better quality than the one that was fitted to my drill press in the first place!

For a start it has a dust cover for both switches and the instructions are very simple and accurate.

HOWEVER...it is a naked switch i.e. it does not come in a box so if that is what you are after then the other ones suggested are probably better for you. If not and you are going to fit it into a cavity..it is ideal.

It has two tags with crimps supplied for the OUTPUT side...and two leads for the SUPPLY side and that is it. So all you would have to do is wire a lead from any supply (say piggie backed from an existing socket) through this switch and out to another 13A socket. Job done.

Hope this clarifies that option further.

Cheers mate and let us know how you get on!

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Jim, it will be an excuse to make a box. :wink:

 

[9fingers]

Thanks Jim, it will be an excuse to make a box. :wink:

Don't forget to earth the wooden box DW :lol: :lol:

Bob

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Jim, it will be an excuse to make a box. :wink:

Don't forget to earth the wooden box DW :lol: :lol:

Bob

Yeah, otherwise it will turn to ash.

 

[9fingers]

Thanks Jim, it will be an excuse to make a box. :wink:

Don't forget to earth the wooden box DW :lol: :lol:

Bob

Yeah, otherwise it will turn to ash.

If you are careful it should be oak -a

Bob

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Jim, it will be an excuse to make a box. :wink:

Don't forget to earth the wooden box DW :lol: :lol:

Bob

Yeah, otherwise it will turn to ash.

If you are careful it should be oak -a

Bob

ir OK o

 

[jimi43]

Thought it might help you DW if you had close up pictures of this switch:

As you can see there are supply leads (which you can connect to a flying lead via a chocblock to a 13A socket.

Then you need another socket - the one you want protected/switched with a flying lead crimped to those two spare spades (in blue) and you are done. Don't forget to pass the earths through too! (all joking aside!)

Hope this helps

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Jim

where is the green earth wire?

 

[9fingers]

Nothing to earth DW, it is all plastic.

Pass the incoming earth wire straight through to your output socket.

Bob

 

[jimi43]

Thanks Jim

where is the green earth wire?

Feed that independently. From the source socket...out through to the switch box...earth this if metal...then on to the next socket.

On my drill press for instance the earth is taken off to a screw tag

FYI the length of the switch as you can see is 100mm and the between centres for the mounting holes is 80mm



Cheers

Jim

 

[George_N]

I got one of these from Axminster. I set it up on a board and wired it to a separate 13 amp socket, just as DW is suggesting. In effect it gives me an NVR extension socket to use with my router table, band saw, hand-held CS etc. I have a 2.1 kW router in my table and it handles that without a problem.

 

[jimi43]

That looks remarkably similar George...I think it is the same but in a box...good value for the box really and about 2A higher rating on the switch too.

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

My triton router is 2400 watts. 9 fingers said if a 13 amp fuse runs OK why do Axminster have so many different models at different wattages?

Can I run to a 4 way socket extension from the nvr switch and then have the router and dust extractor running at the same time bearing in mind these switch ratings. (1400 watts dust ext. 2400 watts router, wait a minute! I am already running that lot through a 13 amp fuse plus the Jet mounted air filter)

 

[DaveL]

Can I run to a 4 way socket extension from the nvr switch and then have the router and dust extractor running at the same time bearing in mind these switch ratings. (1400 watts dust ext. 2400 watts router, wait a minute! I am already running that lot through a 13 amp fuse plus the Jet mounted air filter)

John,
You may find that if you turn everything on in one go with the NVR, the fuse may blow due to the startup surge, that's why some of the vacuums with power take off have a delayed startup.
You are relying on none of the motors pulling full power, your total power for that lot is 3800 watts, 13 amp fuse on steady load will only supply just ove 3000 watts.

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Davel, I agree with your figures, funny thing is I have been running all three items from one of those 4 way extension socket for around 5 years and never had a blow out, (Did have to replace a 4 way switched socket a couple of years ago, perhaps its because the router is the last to go on via the socket switch (router is switched on permanently) that I have got away with it for so long).

Must start the new season with some electrical fitting changes?

 

[jimi43]

HI DW

The NVR switches are single phase 240VAC devices but you can supply 240V equipment from a switches spur for instance delivering 30A (assuming you have adequate supply to your workshop) so I guess that they are available for any feed.

A ring main or multiple spurs from a consumer unit will be able to deliver current to multiple devices up to the rated output of the ring or sum of the spurs.....

The standard domestic supply does not expect you to use high current devices (except maybe grannie's three bar!). This is why cookers and electric showers generally have their own dedicated supply.

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

Yep, supply to my workshop is using 10mm cable from main consumer box , and then feeds a ring main from a rsd.

 

[jimi43]

Yep, supply to my workshop is using 10mm cable from main consumer box , and then feeds a ring main from a rsd.

10mm Twin and Earth can take about 53A maximum current according to spec and this is usually protected by a 30A or 40A maximum trip miniature circuit breaker in the consumer unit.

As long as you don't demand more current than the maximum trip current at once (including startup loads which can be higher) -you should be ok.

The switch I showed is rated at 6A maximum load which is 6x250V or 1500W load continuous.

So if you want to start your router AND a dust extractor from the same switch this is probably not high enough as most 1/2" routers draw about 1200 to 1300W on their own.

You don't need the dust extractor on an NVR switch as it is not dangerous if starts accidentally so I would switch your extractor elsewhere and use the socket only to drive the router or get a higher rated switch unit.

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

Thats what I expected to be the outcome. My triton is rated at 2400 watts.