Old hand saw buyers guide.

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Si_Ricketts

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Honiton, Devon
Good evening all, I have had it with throw away hand saws. You know the sort, £5.99 from the builders merchants, cut a piece of plywood and there're blunt. Many years ago I had my grandads Spear and Jackson cross cut saw which seemed to go on for ages. I bought and still have from those years a setting gauge and file so I thought I'd buy a couple of old, or in new parlance, vintage :roll: , saws and restore them. So, any recommendations for the older makes, which there seem to be plenty of on flee bay. I'm looking to buy a Cross cut and Ripping saw.
 
You’ll get lots of suggestions on buying Disston D-8 series saws and they can be fine. Last year I picked up a Disston D-23 on the Bay and it turned out to be my regular crosscut user without any further tickering on my part. It was probably factory sharp and will do well for me while I’m learning to sharpen saws.
 
I'm not sure that going by maker is the best way to obtain a good saw - well, not in the UK anyway.

Saw manufacture in North America was dominated by about four companies, of which one, Disston, eventually hoovered up the opposition and effectively became a monopoly supplier. In the UK, there were hundreds of makers, some large and some small, and pretty well all of them made decent saws, some of them for only a few years, some for a couple of centuries. Thus, there are some names that crop up a lot, and some that are rare, but there's no real correlation between quality and whether they're common or scarce.

If you're buying a couple as users rather than setting out to collect, perhaps better to look for something with a straight blade, not too rusty, and perhaps with a handle design that you like. I find the older 19th century style handles to be more comfortable than the modern pared-down aesthetic 'blocky' ones, but preferences do vary. As a woodworker, you can do something about handles - reshape or replace - but from experience, doing something about bent blades is a lot more challenging!

Buying from internet auctions can be a bit hit and miss, and it's probably wise to accept a fairly high 'lemon' rate if you buy cheap ones. It may be wise to pay more (web auction or dealer) for sizes and tooth configurations you want, rather than spending the same to end up with three good 'uns and six scrappers.

That's my experience, anyway!
 
I recently bought a Spear and jackson skew back as I had got fed up with hardpoints too.

I wasn't expecting much from a new saw at 26 quid, but it arrived nice and sharp, filed crosscut and without too much set on it. It cuts beautifully leaving a great finish.

Not as beautiful as an old D-8 but cheap, low risk and less work to set up...
 
I think that you will find that almost any old Saw is a really good investment. A nice beech handle and a straight not kinked blade along with a decent doth of bkade are about the only pre-requisite. The only one that’s also a really really nice Saw which has a plastic handle is a Svandic saw (at least that’s how I think you spell it!) they have really good quality steel blades. I have one that I made a new handle for.

I wouldn’t worry too much about rust, that’s easy to clean off, and equally a little pitting won’t harm the performance in the slightest. I often feel that the pits allows wax to congregate acting as a reserve helping to lubricate the saw for longer make it the Saw work that little bit better. Controversial opinion I know!

The Warranted medallion seems to have been used by numerous manufacturers to sell off cheaply their stocks whilst preserving their brand. You can often work out what they really are (many seem to be Spear & Jackson). I have bought and used and given away / sold a number of them all of which have been really nice saws.
 
If you are going to teach your self saw sharpening, you will need to practise.
The best source for cheap saws, is car-boot sales.
The blade must be straight, at first all teeth should be present, rust actually helps! The worked on teeth show more clearly.
This is the route I took, paying no more than £2, many less than £1, you can afford to practise.
Some will turn out to be real gems, but if you foul one up, then not much lost.
The gems can then be polished, handles oiled, and used!
The rest, back to the car-boot.
Bod
 
Gentleman, what can I say. Thank you all for taking the time and coming back to me with excellent advice. I'm watching a few on eBay and I like the idea of picking them up at boot sales.
As for rust, I'm sure some of you may have tried it but electrolysis works brilliantly for removing small and large amounts of rust. I've had a rig set up in my garage for about a month working my way through a few metal working tools that were given to me. There’s loads of stuff on YouTube if you're interested. Anyway thanks again.
 
deema":2anm734g said:
The only one that’s also a really really nice Saw which has a plastic handle is a Svandic saw (at least that’s how I think you spell it!) they have really good quality steel blades. I have one that I made a new handle for.

Sandvik, though they now sell their saws under their parent brand, Bahco. I have a few that I keep around for plywood etc. As you say they're the best of the Western-style dispose-a-saws.

They make saws with both conventional 60 deg teeth and Japanese-style triple-beveled teeth. The latter work particularly well in ply.
 
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