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sooty

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Don't know if this belongs here could not think where to post it
The question is can any useful woodworking( cutting tools ) be made from old metalworking files I know the steel is brittle but would it grind up take a sharp edge?
I was thinking mainly of wood turning tools
 
Scraping tools certainly.

They also make excellent engineers hand scrapers, used for seating the frog of a Bailey plane etc.

David
 
Sooty
If you anneal the steel (i.e. heat it red hot and then let it cool down slowly) it will soften the file so you can easily grind it and re-shape it. Once happy with your new tool you will then need to heat treat it again.
You may find it easier to buy some tool steel-much easier to work and heat treat. Grinding all those teeth off is not exactly fun...... :lol:
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
Correct heat treatment would seem to be rather vital if this thread is anything to go by. I've seen scrapers, dubious chisels, scraper burnishers and screwdrivers all made from recognisable files. Here's one of my favourites:



All you need is a forge and a crash course in smithing and you could make all sorts out of unrecognisable files I suppose. :D

Cheers, Alf
 
Sooty,

You should see what Jake has used files for! Of course a link would be good but I cannot find one, hopefully he will be a long and put that right.
 
Hi Sooty,

Jake Darvall on the Aussie forum has done some brilliant work making plane irons for Stanley 55s and other planes from old files (plus a lot of other unconventional modifications). Here's a link to one of his posts http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=36767 Have a scroll around - his stuff is great :wink:

Paul

Edit: if you left click on his picture (he's known as apricotripper on that forum) you get a link to all his posts and all threads started by him - well worth a read, very informative and some of them will give you a good laugh :wink:
 
He seems to have ground the blade "straight from an old file", if I read correctly. It's good to know that works. I stick them in the oven for an hour at 400 degrees just to soften them up a bit. I don,t see why you can't just temper them, since they are already too hard; why bother annealing, quenching, and tempering?
 
The thing is my mate has asked me to have a go at making him an Oland tool for his woodturning I scanned the web looking for the tool and came up with this site http://www.aroundthewoods.com/tools.shtml by Darrell Feltmate which got me thinking as to where I could source the material from thats when I thought old square or round file?

Looking at the picture of the tool the tip looked to be something like a cutting tool I remember seeing on metal lathes back at school (I could be wrong thats a long long time ago) anyway his site has inspired me to have a go at making some tools that may help with my woodworking.

Thats why I thought of old files or maybe I could use old cold chisels, I don't want to spend money sourcing material on something that may not work I live on a tight budget and any spare cash I have I want to spend on wood!
 
Frank D.":hexdwsc5 said:
...snip... I don,t see why you can't just temper them, since they are already too hard; why bother annealing, quenching, and tempering?

The main danger is that the bulk of the tool shank will still be brittle if you just temper the cutting area.

Even heating the whole of the file to 200-230degC may not be sufficient due to work induced (or mis-use) flaws in an old file.

Far safer to anneal it and start again, just hardening the intended cutting area.

On a different tack; I have a few metal scrapers and various blades and cutters made from old files some 50 years ago that still serve a useful function.
The first tool we were encouraged to make this way was a 'Three-square' scraper from a 4" triangular file, and just to prove that all rules are made to be broken we were expected to hollow grind them without tempering the material (grinding technique) as these are hand use only.
 
Hello Sooty,

I can give you some thoughts..... some might be wrong mind you. I'm no expert . Just some of my personal findings.

I've read plenty about blacksmithing....uno, the whole anneal/shape/re-harden/temper process.... but really haven't found the chance to try it all, partly because it scares me to be honest..... bit of magic to learn. So, it take a while to get consistant results I thought.

So as an experiment I tried grinding files into blades with the simple thought..... :oops: 'files are obviously hard,,,,maybe they'd be good'. . And too my amazement, I've found that, untouched, they make excellent plane blades. Which is great, because files are dirt cheap. And I personally can't justify buying aftermarket blades for experiments.

I Emailed 'Eddie the Eagle' (Andrew)on the Ubeaut site, whose a metalurgist, who wrote an excellent thread on blades.....
http://woodcentral.com.ldh0138.uslec.ne ... ;read=4444
(might be of interest)

....asking him about files....describing my good results.... trying to get some answers. To which he responded with this email... (I'm shore he wouldn't mind me posting it here)

*******
Hi Jake,

Thanks for your comments on the article/thread.

If I recall correctly, files are tempered to about 60HRC, a little lower
than a plane blade. (which is why they don't cut tempered steel).
They're both minimally tempered.

The steel in a file is about 1%C, which gives max hardness and some
toughness (which is why they shatter if you hit them)

http://www.key-to-steel.com/Articles/Art12.htm gives a summary of what's
going on.

As the file sees more tempering than the blade, it's going to be a
little tougher and less likely to chip than THE EQUIVALENT CARBON level
tempered as a blade (ie: less heat treatment.)
In your case, it sounds as though you've got a winner - the higher
carbon in the file gives a higher hardness than the plane blade steel.

Metallurgy is still somewhat of a black art - the proof of success is
that the file works as a blade quite well.

Best regards,

Andrew F
(eddie the eagle on the ubeaut board)

********

So there you go.....

I think it be unlikely for you to have any brittle problems using a file for handplane applications.....simply because there really isn't any impact cuts going on....uno, unlike say a mortise chisel. Hasn't happened to me yet. I've made about 20 profile plane blades from old files so far on no edge crumbling. But I may have been lucky. I stick to a 'Wiltshire' brand of old file.

They say the old serrations in the file can be break points as well. But again, there really isn't enough shock for that to occur. I won't grind serrations off if I don't need too. Just a waste of time. Just leave them there and no problem.

The edge retention of these blades seems good too. I've never tried a Hock blade or any other aftermarket blade, so I can't give an accurate comparison I suppose.......but I can say, they last longer than the regular blades that come with the profile planes I use. Good milage between sharpening.

The only daunting thing I suppose, is how you sharpen them ? yes ?

Well, they sharpen at a rate similar to a good hard blade I suppose. The first shaping of the tool can take quite a while as you can imagine, but I still think its worth it, cause your bipassing the whole anneal/shape/harden/temper process which takes time in itself I'd say.

Its all done freehand off bench grinders. But use a ALO(white) wheel, or else don't bother trying.

Freehands easiest, with a finger right on the edge to monitor heat.Very simply way of ensuring you don't temper your blade. If your finger goes ouch, its too hot,,,,,so pull back makes sense, since your fingers will burn way before it looses temper. :oops: it works...

Plenty of light,,,,,eyes in close,,,,burr the edge then knock it off with buffing wheels charged with green compound. You can polish up the backs as well with plane blades, unlike chisels, cause a little rounding is not a problem. I don't bother with your normal water and oil stones. Take the blade straight from bench grinder to buffing wheel I do. Quick.

I can't think of anything else right now. Hope that helps. I need to sleep. Goodnight.
 
Jake Darvall":255f07e1 said:
I think it be unlikely for you to have any brittle problems using a file for handplane applications.....simply because there really isn't any impact cuts going on...
Seems to me that's the key thing. Turning tools can get rather a lot of impact in rather a hurry. I wasn't very clear in my response, sorry. Turning tools - do the thing properly. Non/low-impact stuff - different kettle of swimming things.

Cheers, Alf
 
Thanks for that Jake it's an interesting read but it just makes my head spin.
Alf point taken, turning tools do take more impact than normal tools will have a rethink on sourcing the steel and save the files idea for tools with less impact maybe something like a drawknife.
 
Sorry mate..... too much info. I do that too often I think.

Have a good weekend. :)
 
Paul Chapman":2rcymvb6 said:
Jake Darvall":2rcymvb6 said:
too much info. I do that too often I think.

Never too much information, Jake :wink:

Paul

ta mate. ( your not an aussie on holidays by any chance are you ?) :wink: ... I spend enough time trying to get the grammer and spelling right. Forever re-editing these things to try and get the spelling right.
 
Jake Darvall":143wyif0 said:
( your not an aussie on holidays by any chance are you ?) :wink:

No, but the wife has loads of relatives who live down there. Must get out and visit them one day :roll:

Paul
 

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