essexalan":260b5cfo said:IFAIK the 1.2K is Alox and the 1K SiC. The 1.2K is quite porous as in you can see the water soaking in and is definitely a fast cutter quite happy to handle any steel I have used it with. Comparatively soft as in you do get particle release but you are not down and playing in the mud like the Kings. I do not like the much vaunted Shaptons and wish I had never bought them. I sharpen in my kitchen so no frozen buckets of water for me.
The Stanley #7 seems to be quite flat from toe to mouth and then falls in a convex curve to the heel , my guess it that it has been sat for years with the frog screws over tightened and the cap lock tightened down. Draw filing is an option, hand abrasive paper or I did read about somebody using a scraper on cast iron planes, dunno never seen one.
Never seen a IM 313 but you can buy them for 295 quid, silly money you can buy a ProEdge for that!
I wouldn't buy a pro edge over an I'm 313, but I wouldn't buy either for 300, either. The shells with old stones can be gotten really cheaply here, and the oil bath setup makes it so you literally never do any stone upkeep. It's really nice.
I think I gather what you're saying about the stones, but I always thought the 1.2k was the hard one in white alumina. I did have a 3k of the sic sintered type, but it was too sloppy for me.
Don't know what causes 7s to be like you say, but I've gotten 7 like that. Another option if you have a reference surface is to use a 2x3 inch wooden block and really coarse paper to spot remove. That's the fastest method I've tried because the area on the block is small enough to allow the paper to dig in.
Filing requires a file that flexes a little and doesn't have an area of no teeth at the end. Simonds maxi cut is a good choice.