Occasional/"lamp" table (long, lots of photos)

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TobyB

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This is a first for me ... both recording a WIP, and making something like this ... done more things with a lathe than on a bench. Learned a lot doing this though ...

Bought some beech planks - would have liked to have used walnut, but thought I could learn (ie make mistakes) with something cheapish.

Found some pictures of a design I liked. Bought some 2" thick and cut (hand and bandsaw) out 4 legs. The thinner 1 1/4" planks got cut into 4 rails and 3 planks to join for the top.

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Hand planed the 4 rails smooth, square and equal thickness

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Similarly hand planed/widthed/thicknessed the legs, having cut tapers in 2 planes with the bandsaw ...

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... and then marked them up for the mortices.

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Which I then chopped out using my new mortice chisels (good value items from WH - thanks Matthew!) although the normal chisels helped tidy up inside too.

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Cut the tenons (forgot pictures!) with saw, "tuned" with chisel and shoulder plane ...

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... and then press-fitted it all together ...

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Prepared the boards for the top by hand as well ...

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... and them glued (titebond) and clamped them together - here's after cleaning up.

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I thin planed a chamfer around the underside edge, and sanded it all smooth

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After a bit of faffing about, I took a deep breath and glued and clamped the whole base together ... including finding out how easy it is to put too much glue on then hurrying and there's glue in adjacent mortices!

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Tabletop attached with block into grooves done with a biscuit-joint router bit. Finished it with 3 coats of Danish Oil and a lot of buffing.

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It's no masterpiece - but I'm reasonably happy with it as a "first go". I think I could have put a more pronounced shamfer on the table underside, and should have made the one on the bottom of the rails more obvious as you can hardly see it in these photos. Might take what I've learned and build a smaller "side table" version in walnut ... perhaps with a shelf or even a drawer ... didn't do either on my first go, thought it'd be too much room for error ...

Any ideas/advice on what to do next time ... better, different, or whatever?
 
You've done a good job there, Toby. My only criticism is that I think the legs are too thin (particularly at the bottom) and look out of proportion with the rest of the piece.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Paul Chapman":2uc7spoz said:
You've done a good job there, Toby. My only criticism is that I think the legs are too thin (particularly at the bottom) and look out of proportion with the rest of the piece.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
Agree with Paul...some nice tool gloatage though - Rob
 
Personally i think it looks quite elegant, but in my opinion would definitely look better in a darker wood.

lovely job though, i certainly wish i had the patients to make something like that.

Andy
 
hi

I would have made a bead or a similar profile in the lower edges of the rails
to add some detail. the way it is, it looks a little bit "spartan" IMHO.
otherwise it's a nice crisp job.
 
Thanks for that.

Yes - legs might be a bit thin - felt I was stopping it from being too clunky and heavy - but might have gone a bit far. Feels solid enough for an occasional table - wouldn't survive in a busy hallway or a kitchen though I realise ...

Lower edge of the rails - I have put a moderate 45 degree chamfer on with a router, but in trying not to go over the top (my usual sin), it's so subtle you can't actually see it can you. Like the shallow chamfer on the table edge, clearly need to make it more visible. I did wonder about making a pierced pattern in the middle of each rail with large and small forster bits - toyed with a oOo (but overlapping) idea but thought it might distract from a few clean(ish) lines. Would it be an idea to reconsider?

Good ideas to take on board if I have a 2nd run with walnut ... thanks
 
Excellent for a first project. Well done!

I can't quite see from the photo but usually just the inner 2 faces of the legs that are tapered. It rather looks like all 4 faces have been done?

Bob
 
That looks fantastic - very well done indeed! :)

I do agree with the others' reservations over the thinness of the legs but, equally, there would be people out there who love it. I think I know what you mean about the chamfers on the top... You almost want to 'undercut' the edges at a wide angle that takes the edge back to the frame?

Well done for hand-planing all that wood - beech, as well!! :shock: =D> :wink:
 
Bob - it is just the inner two faces of the legs that are tapered - photo may not be clear, but it's a straight vertical on the outer faces at 90 degrees to the rails and top.

Olly - think the chamfer on the top was measuring about 5 mm of thickness and 60 mm of the width ... wondering if the same 5 mm (or perhaps 6-7) with 30-40 mm of thickness would have been better (a more obvious "feature", and lightening the feel of the top whilst leaving plenty to get screws into safely) ... and that would fit in with ...

Matt - too much overhang of the top? Think that's a good thought - perhaps reduce by a third or so? I stuck to the proportions in a plan for a much smaller side table ... but sometimes these things don't scale up/down in a linear fashion do they...

Useful feedback!
 
Agree with what the others have said re critique and praise, for a first job that's pretty impressive - or even a second or third or....

Another thing to consider when doing your glue and clamp ups, rather than do it on its side on the bench, I would glue it up standing on the floor (assuming the floor is flat). That way you ensure that the piece is level and it's easier to measure and adjust for square. It's rare something will glue up dead square at first go and you have to adjust your clamps to bring it into square, hard if it's laying on its side

Good work

Damian
 
Very Nice work there and using hand tools to flatten all those boards and bring to square is no mean feat.
However I must raise issue with this clean workshop trend that is sweeping the site. I feel too embarassed to post any of my work as my workshop is a right mess.
Owen
 
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