Oak shed door hinge bolt through mortise and tenon joint

[Helixfarm]

Hello

Just hoping for some guidance. I’ve built a large oak door with mortise and tenon joints holding the stiles and the three ledges together. I now need to attach three large hook and band hinges. To do so I will need to drill through the stiles exactly where the mortise and tenon joints are located so that I can insert the bolt for each of the hinges. Do you think I am okay drilling through the joint (the hole for the bolt will be smaller than the joint and I guess it will hold it all together when the bolt is tightened). Just seems a bit odd having carefully made the joints I now need to drill through them all on the hinge side of the door. Am I worrying needlessly or have I screwed up? Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[AJBaker]

Could you add a picture?

 

[Helixfarm]

Hello - please see attached photos. The first three show the door under construction, with the third one showing the three ledges jointed into the stiles on the rear of the door. The last photo is of the door I was copying which, as you can see, has the black bolt holding the long hook and band hinge slotted through the stile. On the door I am copying the joint is a double tenon joint, so the bolt hole goes in between the tenons. On my version I just did a single large tenon and the bolt will have to go through the mortise and tenon. Hope that is clearer - bit hard to explain.

 

[Cabinetman]

Yes that will be absolutely fine, but the steel bolts will react with the Oak and cause big black stains. Best use Stainless.
Concerned that you haven’t allowed for the expansion of all the nicely moulded planks, you might get away with it if it’s an internal door but outside they will be all over the place, buckled to b..ggery.
I would put about a 3 to 4mm gap between each plank, I know you’ve worked it out perfectly so that they fit the door so it’s a shame, but the difference probably should be split and removed from the outer planks. It’s all you can do without recutting either all the tongues or all the grooves.
How are you securing the planks to the rails?
I’m presuming there is a large halving joint where the centre rail and the brace meet?
Should be an attractive door.
Ian

 

[AJBaker]

Nice door! I also don't imagine there would be any structural problems from the bolt through the tenon. In fact, it would guarantee that that tenon would never come loose.

One suggestion if I may: It's often recommended to avoid having the top of the diagonal brace touching the stile, as the weight of the door can sometimes push the stile off the tenon. I've seen it recommended to have the top of the brace only touching the ledge.

 

[Helixfarm]

Yes that will be absolutely fine, but the steel bolts will react with the Oak and cause big black stains. Best use Stainless.
Concerned that you haven’t allowed for the expansion of all the nicely moulded planks, you might get away with it if it’s an internal door but outside they will be all over the place, buckled to b..ggery.
I would put about a 3 to 4mm gap between each plank, I know you’ve worked it out perfectly so that they fit the door so it’s a shame, but the difference probably should be split and removed from the outer planks. It’s all you can do without recutting either all the tongues or all the grooves.
How are you securing the planks to the rails?
I’m presuming there is a large halving joint where the centre rail and the brace meet?
Should be an attractive door.
Ian

Thanks, Ian, that’s very helpful. I knew I would get something wrong . I was just trying to copy the door I bought on eBay. See photos below showing the tongues firmly in the grooves (and the door had been stored for six months in a dry garage when the photo was taken). I had assumed that was how it had been made, but I guess it may have already expanded. Do you think applying some oil to the oak will prevent the ingress of moisture and therefore any swelling?

Re the centre rail and braces, I was going to cheat and screw them together as I lacked the skills to make the joint accurately.

Thanks again.

Best

Tony

 

[Helixfarm]

Nice door! I also don't imagine there would be any structural problems from the bolt through the tenon. In fact, it would guarantee that that tenon would never come loose.

One suggestion if I may: It's often recommended to avoid having the top of the diagonal brace touching the stile, as the weight of the door can sometimes push the stile off the tenon. I've seen it recommended to have the top of the brace only touching the ledge.

Thanks! That’s very helpful.I’ll do a bit more research on the brace as it is not yet fixed in.

 

[Cabinetman]

Thanks, Ian, that’s very helpful. I knew I would get something wrong . I was just trying to copy the door I bought on eBay. See photos below showing the tongues firmly in the grooves (and the door had been stored for six months in a dry garage when the photo was taken). I had assumed that was how it had been made, but I guess it may have already expanded. Do you think applying some oil to the oak will prevent the ingress of moisture and therefore any swelling?

Re the centre rail and braces, I was going to cheat and screw them together as I lacked the skills to make the joint accurately.

Thanks again.

Best

Tony

Not sure screwing the cross brace to the centre rail will be very successful tbh. As they are now cut I think the easiest thing would be to put another piece of oak 18”? long spanning the joint and screwed in place on the inside of the door.
Just noticed that you have a small edge plank, maybe do away with that and spread the rest out, oil won’t cut it, sorry.
Ian