oak dinning table

[gixxer600k7]

im new to this forum, hey all and thanks in advance ...

my dinning table has started to split a little, see pics. im after ideas to restore it i.e. what sand paper i need to use if any, varnish, tools etc, im pretty hands on but im not aware of the process in doing anything liekewise, appreciate the help.

I think the cause was steam in the past and we noticed it a little late. We are now using coasters and a runner to protect it when ever in use.

i have used clear varnish on the table just to protect it in the meantime. regards

 

[Sgian Dubh]

That looks suspiciously like oak veneer. Is that the case? Dealing with veneer lifting like that can be very challenging, and sometimes unrepairable without high level skills. Slainte.

 

[MARK.B.]

+1 for Veneer

 

[david123]

+2

 

[david123]

+2

 

[RogerM]

+3. And if you've varnished it it's make a repair even more difficult. Put that sandpaper away - it'll only make it worse.

 

[gixxer600k7]

many thanks, vaneer is correct from what i have read, any suggestions on a fix? regards

 

[Dangermouse]

Depends on what is underneath, if its chipboard or MDF, then best put it in a skip and get another one. If its wood then you might get away with putting down some brown paper and using a hot iron to re-melt the glue and re-stick it.

 

[AndyT]

many thanks, vaneer is correct from what i have read, any suggestions on a fix? regards

Fixing it won't be easy. What to do depends on things you have not told us such as
-your skills and equipment
-the value of the table
-the edge detail
-the size of the table
-how much you want to spend
-whether you want it to look like it used to, or just be stable.

To get back as it was you'd need to strip all the old veneer off and replace it. That might need a professional veneer press or a large vacuum bag. A lot depends on the edge details.

You could do a bodge repair with thin oak veneered ply, if the design allows. That would be easier than proper veneering, but could look dreadful!

I suggest a permanent table cloth.

 

[RogerM]

Depends on what is underneath, if its chipboard or MDF, then best put it in a skip and get another one. If its wood then you might get away with putting down some brown paper and using a hot iron to re-melt the glue and re-stick it.

If the original damage was caused by heat, then that suggests that it melted the glue, so trying dangermouse's solution on a small area first might be the line of least resistance. If there is a similar veneer on the underside of the table you could always try a medium heat iron over brown paper underneath where it won't show just to make sure that it doesn't discolour the wood. However, if you have varnished the top, then there is no telling what effect heat may have on the varnish - could blister and wrinkle. Maybe try using the same varnish on a piece of scrap and when fully hardened - ie at least a week and not just "dry" - try the iron treatment on it and see what happens.

 

[Matt@]

Retaining the veneer I would say this is irreparable. Even if you could somehow flatten the lifting, you wouldnt be able to flatten it enough to avoid sanding. Therefore when sanded, the veneer will sand through to the substrate. And it,ll still probally be lifting. Nasty job!

 

[joiner_sim]

Okay, so its veneer. If, you want to keep the table, consider what someone suggested above. Glue thin oak faced ply on top. If your current table edge is flat enough to get a router bearing guided cutter on, then it would be just a case of trimming it flush. But other than that or re veneering its probably not repairable to a high standard.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

many thanks, vaneer is correct from what i have read, any suggestions on a fix? regards

Now that you've confirmed your table top is veneered I strongly suspect that a repair, as others have suggested, is beyond the capabilities of someone with little or no experience-- I can't tell what experience you have for sure, but that you've asked how to effect a repair suggests yours might be limited.

I suspect the effectiveness of any repair will depend upon the extent of the damage. If the damage is widespread, stripping off the old veneer and applying a new veneered surface might be best. What is on the other side? Could the top be simply flipped over meaning you might be able to get away with filling a few holes?

On the other hand, if the damage is very localised it may be possible to do something by injecting glue under the cracks and clamping down, and then following up with stripping existing polish and refinishing, probably over the whole surface, but including faking up the grain here and there with graining type techniques.

If a job like that came in to me, and the damage is extensive, I suspect you'd be looking at a complete strip of existing veneer probably with a wide belt oscillating thickness sander, followed by making up leaves of veneer into an appropriate width and length, pressing it down with a hydraulic press, and all the rest of the job. It could get quite expensive, and the table may not be worth it, especially if it's a modern one purchased from a high street retail outlet, or similar. Slainte.

 

[blackrodd]

Okay, so its veneer. If, you want to keep the table, consider what someone suggested above. Glue thin oak faced ply on top. If your current table edge is flat enough to get a router bearing guided cutter on, then it would be just a case of trimming it flush. But other than that or re veneering its probably not repairable to a high standard.

Oak faced ply would probably be the best route, if the rest of the table is worth it 'cos O.F.Ply aint cheap! Rodders

 

[Mr T]

Hi

I would initially suggest trying to iron down the lifted veneer. The success of this depends on the original glue used and how much of your varnish may have seeped underneath. Failing this injecting adhesive under the blisters an then clamping of pressing under weights.

You may have a problem if you have to sand the top to level any blisters after treatment as, looking at the picture, the veneer looks like it is very thin already, probably from the original sanding. So sanding it again may result in cutting though to the substrate.

After all that I suspect that the top may be destined for the skip!

Chris