Number 7 vs Number 8

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Petey83

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So I sold my vintage stanley number 7 last year because i was convinced i would never use it as all i did was sheet material and small bits of solid timber that my small axi PT could handle.....

Well turns out that was a mistake..... I have a number of projects in the house coming up that are to big for the PT to handel - a large dining table out of Lebanese cedar, a console table / shoe rack with a London plane slab top and a side board for the dining room with the top also likely to be in Lebanese cedar. The dinning table will be just over 6ft long and 3 ft wide made of 2 jointed slabs.

So looking at buying a new plane and my question is - Number 7 or go bigger and get a number 8? For reference i have a number 4 and number 5 from Quangshen (if that's how i spell it). I am looking at either a Lie Nielson or Veritas (maybe clifton?) mainly due to workshop heaven having no stock and me not having time to hunt out a second hand one and bring it back to life. I also want something that i know will be comfy to use given the weight and size of either plane.

Am genuinely torn between the two as its a chunk of change to spend either way and want something that will do these projects without to much hassle and still be of use in future even if i don't do any more big projects for a while.
 
Hello,

A number 7 would be fine for most if not all edge jointing tasks a d surface flattening tasks.

I have both, but I don't think when I've used the 8 I've ever thought I couldn't have achieved the same with the 7.

Of course your physique might be similar to desperate Dan and the 8 might suit you ergonomically, but that is for you to decide.

Mike.
 
I have a Lie Nielsen No.8 and its quite possibly the best plane I own functionally.

My colleague once borrowed it to use on a large oak boat kneel with a lot of knots, think it was about 5-6ft that needed to be perfectly straight and flat. No other plane would do it without rippinig up the knots (bare in mind this is a boatyard with a lot of planes to choose from), the No.8 did it with ease.

If you don't mind shelling out £400 it won't disappoint. I have heard the new Clifton's are comparable in quality.

I have not used a No.7, but the size difference is not huge. But I would say unless your going to be planing up boat masts or something else very very long that a No.8 has not real benefit over a No.7 or even No.6. I find myslef using the No.6 more often than my other long planes, I only use the No.8 either when the edge is huge (6ft+) or it is absoultly criticial that its perfect.
 
Can't see the need for anything that long. A 5 1/2 and carful use of a straight edge and you can plane as flat as need be for jointing up tables 6' or more. It's the biggest I own and have never needed a longer plane.
 
Beau":3twywfsc said:
Can't see the need for anything that long. A 5 1/2 and carful use of a straight edge and you can plane as flat as need be for jointing up tables 6' or more. It's the biggest I own and have never needed a longer plane.
Its for speeds sake. Planing up a 20ft boat mast with a No.5 1/5 you would be perfectly capable of gettting a good result, but would need to spend a lot of time checking with a long straight edge. With a quality (low quality long planes are useless) No.8 in this sitaution you can trust the plane to get it straight.
 
Rhyolith":1oeiygzv said:
Beau":1oeiygzv said:
Can't see the need for anything that long. A 5 1/2 and carful use of a straight edge and you can plane as flat as need be for jointing up tables 6' or more. It's the biggest I own and have never needed a longer plane.
Its for speeds sake. Planing up a 20ft boat mast with a No.5 1/5 you would be perfectly capable of gettting a good result, but would need to spend a lot of time checking with a long straight edge. With a quality (low quality long planes are useless) No.8 in this sitaution you can trust the plane to get it straight.

Well yes if I was making boat masts all day I would agree but the OP sounds like a part timer making some furniture for the house. I long plane is very specialist and will more than likely sit of the shelves for a long long time between uses. For joining up boards I like to plane a very shallow concave along the length as this makes them so easy to clamp up. Easier to do this with a slightly shorter plane.
 
I had a 6,7 and 8 and have now sold off the 7. The reason for this is that for most things I use a 6 (but I am 6'3") and find this to be my main plane for getting things to size. I use the 8 where I may encounter knotts as the extra mass keeps the plane moving. The 6 is Vertias and the 8 is LN. I personally prefer the LV planes only because I have big hands and the LN handles don't accommodate them as well.

For your projects, I would go for a 6.
 
Of course you can do with a No.7 what you can do with a No.8, and with a No.6 much what you can with a No.7. There isn't much you can do with a No.6 that you can't with a No.5 1/2. But then, you can't do much with a No.5 1/2 that you couldn't do with a No.5, and there isn't too much you can do with a No.5 that you can't with a No.4 1/2 ... :?

Get the longest and best you can afford and are comfortable with. :D
 
to put some context on it, i am a hobby user so like all my tools i accept whatever i buy will not "earn" its way so to speak. whatever i buy is because its the best i can afford for to do jobs i want to do.

in terms of the table top specifically - i'll be using the DF700 to domino joint it. I've thought about using a router, bearing guided cutter and long straight edge (learnt this from my Ron fox book) to to do the edges and then 2 strait edges and a surfacing router bit to do the top leveling but given the timber is the most expensive pieces of wood i have ever worked on i want to do it slow and steady and by hand.

the last thing to qualify is i am not a hand tool expert - I've learnt to use my number 5 and block plane effectively but would not call myself an expert so although a number 5 1/2 may do the job i have in skilled hands lets assume i want the plane that will do it in semi skilled hands.

I genuinely want the plane that is best for this job and has enough future use as i do intend on doing my solid timber work as i've found the small bits i have done so far way more enjoyable than making various sized boxes with doors on out of MDF. I already have a 4 and a 5 so it seems like a 7 does everything i want and probably means i would not need to bu a 6 where as the 8 would be the best plane for the task in hand but i would likely use it less moving forward and probably want to by a 6 at some point......

in terms of brand - what do people favor - Lie Nielson, Veritas or Clifton?
 
Start with something smaller, say two foot long. Learning to plane a perfect sprung edge for tops isn't hard, but it does take a bit of practise, what you read in books is a nice start, but there's a lot of practical challenges that you'll only encounter when you actually get cracking for real. Learning with six foot boards would be a bit like learning to drive in central London during rush hour.
 
Petey83":1ti7k9p0 said:
the last thing to qualify is i am not a hand tool expert - I've learnt to use my number 5 and block plane effectively but would not call myself an expert so although a number 5 1/2 may do the job i have in skilled hands lets assume i want the plane that will do it in semi skilled hands.

I genuinely want the plane that is best for this job and has enough future use as i do intend on doing my solid timber work as i've found the small bits i have done so far way more enjoyable than making various sized boxes with doors on out of MDF. I already have a 4 and a 5 so it seems like a 7 does everything i want and probably means i would not need to bu a 6 where as the 8 would be the best plane for the task in hand but i would likely use it less moving forward and probably want to by a 6 at some point......

If your doing funiture I would recommend a No.6.

There is a large degree of personal preference in this, there is not 'right' size for most jobs, just a longer plane for longer pieces of work. If your not sure maybe get a second hand Record (or stanley, though I personally think record is better) for £20 off eBay, car boot or junk shop in both sizes and see which you prefer before splashing out several hundred on a premium one.

Petey83":1ti7k9p0 said:
in terms of brand - what do people favor - Lie Nielson, Veritas or Clifton?
I think this is very much personal preference again. Most people I know who have treid all 3 say they are all comparable in quality. I only have extensive experience with LN and have been very pleased with them. If you used to the traditional baily design then go with LN or Clifton, as veritas tend to be a bit different.
 
phil.p":2ht1tcyc said:
Of course you can do with a No.7 what you can do with a No.8, and with a No.6 much what you can with a No.7. There isn't much you can do with a No.6 that you can't with a No.5 1/2. But then, you can't do much with a No.5 1/2 that you couldn't do with a No.5, and there isn't too much you can do with a No.5 that you can't with a No.4 1/2 ... :?

Get the longest and best you can afford and are comfortable with. :D


Yes sorry my post did come over like I am a grumpy old git just suggesting if spending lots of money on a fancy plane a slightly smaller one might prove a better investment as it is going to get more use in the long run. If one can afford to have all the sizes well all well and good :D
 
No, I didn't think that at all - the point I was making was that it's easy to say an A will do 95% of what a B will do and 90% of what a C will do - but that doesn't make choosing any easier if you've not an unlimited budget. I've a Stanley No.4, a Stanley No.4 1/2, Woden and Marples No.5s, a Record No.5 1/2, a Stanley No.6, a Marples No.7 and a Stanley No.8. - but they were bough over years and only one (at £30, the No.8) was more than £15. I tend to chop and change in use, and to sharpen most of them at the same time. :D I would still look to pick up a good Stanley or Record on evilbay if I needed one - I couldn't bring myself to pay Clifton sort of money (I'd like to have the money to make the choice, though). :D

No idea why the No.8 has come through as a smiley. :?
 
If you are thinking of buying secondhand, which can be much better value than new (unless you get something that's been hopelessly abused) then you'll soon see that there are far more No 7s about than there are No 8s.
 
custard":2boloh1z said:
Start with something smaller, say two foot long. Learning to plane a perfect sprung edge for tops isn't hard, but it does take a bit of practise, what you read in books is a nice start, but there's a lot of practical challenges that you'll only encounter when you actually get cracking for real. Learning with six foot boards would be a bit like learning to drive in central London during rush hour.

i am planning on buying a few lengths of soft wood and practicing on that first - since i have had the space to have a workshop last year i have had a PT so never really pushed myself to use planes other than the block for tidying bits up and the jack for things like doors etc hence why i sold the nice stanley number 7 i had....

looks like i may be going for a LN number 7 then.... will rule Clifton out as i read that they use cast as opposed to ductile iron which increases risk of damage if dropped and as for the Veritas they seem to get mixed reviews.... never read a bad word about an LN plane and given most people seem to own a mix its does not seem like a fanboy sort of thing
 
Rhyolith":3p4m46t8 said:
phil.p":3p4m46t8 said:
Afaik, Stanley didn't make No.8s in this Country.
Did record? Come to think I don't think I have ever seen a British No.8.

I have a record 08 - it was a cheap buy it now on ebay and I couldn't resist! The guy's grandad was a chippy and had bought it when he was working on the new coventry cathedral.
 
Rhyolith":d8eheric said:
phil.p":d8eheric said:
Afaik, Stanley didn't make No.8s in this Country.
Did record? Come to think I don't think I have ever seen a British No.8.

Yes. Look closely and you can just make out "Made in England" on mine :D





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