Noob chainsaw advice?

[sploo]

Ok, so... I have an immediate need to cross cut a couple of 30cm diameter logs. I'd make a simple "X" frame to hold them, would keep the saw bar to the right of my body, would have trousers, gloves, a helmet, and a pair of thick leather boots. I'd definitely be interested in getting some training in the long term, but is the above task sensible for a first time chainsaw user, or should I really be looking at training before I start?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Don't forget you need some sort of "X" in the middle or two thirds of the way across the horse, otherwise you're limited to logs the length of the centres of the ends.

 

[sploo]

Don't forget you need some sort of "X" in the middle or two thirds of the way across the horse, otherwise you're limited to logs the length of the centres of the ends.

Good point.

I did see a video of a guy cutting logs in the middle of such a log support, which of course meant they pinched the top of the blade near the end of the cut. I assume the better idea is to cut such that one half drops away?

 

[AJB Temple]

This is why commercial saw horses have a chain or strap mechanism that grips the log and stops it rolling as you start the cut.

 

[sploo]

This is why commercial saw horses have a chain or strap mechanism that grips the log and stops it rolling as you start the cut.

I've not seen/used one, but a strap was exactly what I was thinking of for a diy version.

 

[AJB Temple]

The Stihl metal saw horse is dead simple. It uses a spring (too strong) with a chain attached to it, and you just stretch it over the log and hook it onto a (badly angled) spigot on the other side of the horse. I keep meaning to attach a better spring and better hook, but it never gets to the top of my list. Big logs don't usually move much, but an unsecured small trunk or branch can easily spin.

DIY users tend to use chainsaws in a different way to pro's. Amateurs are either exceptionally safe and cautious or unbelievably stupid in my experience. The biggest problem I have seen with new users is tentative use of the tool and not getting the saw deep enough over the job, of standing in line with the kick back arc or even leaning over the cut.

Keep a close eye on your chain tension - new chains stretch a surprising amount, especially cheap ones, and you will go through chain oil at a surprising rate too. Its worth getting a chain file and guide - dead easy to sharpen chains.

 

[TFrench]

I have the oregon one. Its good but the chain comes off quite often if you don't keep a close eye on the tension. Having used it more I'm more aware of it and it doesn't happen very much now. I've used it to rip green yew and it coped well with the bits I was doing (6-8" diameter x 12" long ish)

 

[dynax]

I suppose choosing one will depend on what you want to achieve, if you go zombie hunting a battery one with some spares could be ideal as they will be quieter than petrol and less likely to attract other zombies, or you go after dark tree felling in the woods ( hmmm free timber), if you are close enough to a power supply then mains electric would be a serious consideration, aswel as noise regarding neighbours, otherwise petrol would be the way to go,

 

[sploo]

I have the oregon one. Its good but the chain comes off quite often if you don't keep a close eye on the tension. Having used it more I'm more aware of it and it doesn't happen very much now. I've used it to rip green yew and it coped well with the bits I was doing (6-8" diameter x 12" long ish)

That's good to know - thanks.

I asked Oregon about ripping chains and chainsaw mills and they were a bit negative - obviously they're just sticking to an official line, but apparently there's no ripping chain option and they didn't recommend it for that purpose. Granted I suspect that anyone with chainsaw experience would be pointing straight to a large petrol unit for that task, but I was hoping it would work for the occasional bit of planking.

I have heard a few other comments about chain tension. Seems to be that, especially with a new blade, you just have to keep checking it. But, given that it's apparently a tool-less tension I guess that should be easy.

It does also occur to me that a standard chain that's really sharp (due to the ease of sharpening with the built in stone) may well be better than a ripping chain that's blunt that I was too lazy to sharpen :mrgreen:

In an ideal world I'd get round to building one of Mattias Wandel's large bandsaws for large crosscuts and some ripping (I have a 3hp motor waiting to be used). In an even more ideal world I'd have the winching gear to move big logs, and Matt Cremona's 10hp bandsaw mill. But, reality, etc...

I suppose choosing one will depend on what you want to achieve, if you go zombie hunting a battery one with some spares could be ideal as they will be quieter than petrol and less likely to attract other zombies, or you go after dark tree felling in the woods ( hmmm free timber), if you are close enough to a power supply then mains electric would be a serious consideration, aswel as noise regarding neighbours, otherwise petrol would be the way to go,

Definitely a samurai sword for zombies. They don't run out of petrol/battery/mains power :wink:

 

[acewoodturner]

Can everyone please stop calling it a blade! Its a bar and chain. Two separate items. BTW Oregon do make a ripping chain. Check their website out as I cant recall their part no. I use Stihl ripping chain myself. I also sharpen brand new chain before I use it, but there again I am milling anything up to 50" dia logs.

Mike

 

[Beau]

"It does also occur to me that a standard chain that's really sharp (due to the ease of sharpening with the built in stone) may well be better than a ripping chain that's blunt that I was too lazy to sharpen"

Built in stone?

Sharpening on a regular crosscut blade and milling chain is much the same just different angles. Crosscut is usually 30 degrees and milling is 5 degrees but thats the only difference IME.

 

[TFrench]

The saw has a built in stone and you just pull a lever and it tickles the blade up as its going round. I've not used it on mine other that to see what happens when you pull it - not used it enough to blunt it yet!

 

[sploo]

Can everyone please stop calling it a blade! Its a bar and chain. Two separate items. BTW Oregon do make a ripping chain. Check their website out as I cant recall their part no. I use Stihl ripping chain myself. I also sharpen brand new chain before I use it, but there again I am milling anything up to 50" dia logs.

Mike

Chain - good point.

Ripping chain - I don't know enough about chainsaws to know how easy (safe/appropriate) it is to put a different chain on a saw - but I understanding it's a "91" (in terms of length?)

50" dia is the kind of stuff I'd love to be able to do

 

[sploo]

On the subject of safety, I was looking at the forestry helmets and wondering if they'd do anything my Trend Airshield Pro wouldn't.

This site (http://www.bestworkwear.co.uk/chainsaw-ppe-guide) indicates that ear defenders need to "meet BS EN 352-1, a Face Visor should meet BS EN 1731 or if you prefer Safety Glasses, these should comply with BS EN 166".

This (https://www.shponline.co.uk/hearing-pro ... defenders/) indicates that 352-1 is "Hearing protectors – General requirements – Part 1: Ear-Muffs". I believe the Trend ear defenders that attach to the helmet are 352-3, which is "Hearing protectors – General requirements – Part 3: Ear-muffs attached to an industrial safety helmet".

BS EN 1731 is a standard for the metal mesh face shields, but EN 166 eye protection is what the Trend visor is rated for.

So, given that neither helmet would likely withstand a serious kickback, I'm assuming that the Trend would be acceptable for eye and ear protection with a chainsaw - accepting that it's heavy and cumbersome for lengthy operations.

 

[Robbo3]

Rick Morris did a review of an Oregon self sharpening chainsaw
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6Ugm1FnsJw

Like Phil, I have an Ikra 2000 bought on the recommendation of woodfarmer on this site & obtained from Tesco. I see the price has dropped to £81.
- chainsaw-t92020.html

As a novice, what can I say about it. I get it out, crosscut then rip a few logs, make lots of mess to clear up & dispose of, clean the saw & put it away. Job done. It's done everything I've asked of it on up to 14" (355mm) logs.

 

[Beau]

The saw has a built in stone and you just pull a lever and it tickles the blade up as its going round. I've not used it on mine other that to see what happens when you pull it - not used it enough to blunt it yet!

Ah is it the Oregon Powersharp? Had forgotten about these as not seen one in years.

 

[MikeJhn]

It is the same principally, but with the stone built into the saw, I'v had a Powersharp blade on my Stihl for a number of years, well long enough that I have worn out two chains and impressed enough to buy new ones, when I bought mine the blade was not able to be fitted to a standard guide bar, so you had to buy the Oregon bar as well, I don't know if this is still the case, but worth checking.

Mike

 

[duncanh]

"It does also occur to me that a standard chain that's really sharp (due to the ease of sharpening with the built in stone) may well be better than a ripping chain that's blunt that I was too lazy to sharpen"

Built in stone?

Sharpening on a regular crosscut blade and milling chain is much the same just different angles. Crosscut is usually 30 degrees and milling is 5 degrees but thats the only difference IME.

Our origianl ripping chain was ground to 10 degrees and worked pretty well. I recently got some Rotatech replacements and they only do regular 30 degree chains. The plan was to bring them down to 10 degrees as we sharpened them (by hand unfortunately). However, they seem rip pretty well at 30 degrees so they've been left at that. Given that they cost about 1/3 the price of Stihl chains I figured there wasn't much to loose in trying them. So far they've been good but they have stretched slightly more than the Stihl ones. We tend to take all 3 chains with us and spedn the day cutting, swapping chains after around an hour worth of cutting, then sharpen all chains back at base.

I was reading the other day about the Granberg ripping chains which have scoring teeth as well as cutters - 2 half width cutting teeth on alternate sides and then a full cutter. A bit pricier than regular chains and tricky to convert a regular chain into one. Intriguing though.

I suspect Oregon's response about the lack of ripping chain was just for this saw with the auto sharpening system. They would never see that saw as being used for ripping so would be unlikely to make a chain for it (requiring different cutter profiles). Thinking about the auto sharpeing saw and the previous bar - does it do anything to the depth guides? Ordinarily you'd lower them as the teeth get shorter.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have some Rotatech chains I've found very good - but if their customer service is anything to go by they should have been bankrupt many years ago.

 

[duncanh]

Can everyone please stop calling it a blade! Its a bar and chain. Two separate items. BTW Oregon do make a ripping chain. Check their website out as I cant recall their part no. I use Stihl ripping chain myself. I also sharpen brand new chain before I use it, but there again I am milling anything up to 50" dia logs.

Mike

Out of interest - what saw are you using? Presumably a Stihl 880 or equivalent with a monster bar on it.