no chainsaw - lots of logs !

[loz]

Hi All,

Surprise last night when the doorbell rang and a friend was there with 1 largish 12" x 24" Holly log and four 8" x 24" Chestnut ( not sure which variety )

Now all other green work i have done has been small logs, and i've mounted between centres for weedpots etc, or i've been abel to cut with a handsaw.

Now no chainsaw so - any clues how to cut these up ?

Cut i split them with blocks ? any tips ? How did we plank logs before chainsaws ?

Thanks

Loz.

 

[Bodrighy]

They used things like this For really big logs they'd do it over a pit with one poor sucker down the bottom getting covered in sawdust. I remember using one a long time ago, :shock: really hard work.

You should be able to split them in half using wedges and a sledge and then coat the ends in wax / paint / PVA. Holly IME can be a right pig for splitting, don't know about chestnut.

Pete

 

[big soft moose]

wedges and a sledge hammer !

mind you if you want them for turning you could also turn green by cutting them into logs as short as they are wide with a bow saw , splitting down the middle with an axe then cutting into bowl blanks with either a reciprocating saw, bandsaw , or carefully on the lathe with a roughing gouge ( if you go the latter route you will need to smooth the cut face with a sander so that you can attach a face plate)

 

[TEP]

Mornin' Loz.

You can use steel wedges or a couple of axes if you have them, but IME the results leave a lot to be desired. Some trees split in a spiral when splitting down through the pith. If you ain't got now't else you may have to try this route.

If you have to use wedges split the timber in half each time, other wise you will ruin it. ie: Split in half through the central pith, then split those two halves through their centre, and so on.

Good luck!

:idea: xmas is nearly here, get a list going with a chainsaw in pole position!

 

[Paul.J]

Loz i have found that splitting the logs using wedges etc you are taking pot luck.Sometimes it splits fairly evenly and easy others can be a right pain.I used to use this method but soon got a chainsaw.I use an electric one now.Either way be careful.

 

[boysie39]

Loz ,Ibought an electric chainsaw in either Lidal or Aldi for 40euro about 12 mntsago and there is no problems with it + a 3yrs guarntee. I've cut up to 12" dia. have a look in these shops they may have some .REgards Boysie.

 

[loz]

Thanks for all the advice,

I think i'll bite and get a chainsaw. ( again )

I did buy one earlier in the year, but when unpacked i got nervous ( even with it powered off ), and reading the instructions explaining all teh different ways it can kick and take my face, ears, arms off - i thought better of it , so took it back unused.

I did see one recently with some kind of anti-kickback device, ( i think it was a shield on the tip ) so i'll look into that again.

Thanks

Loz

ps - Whats the feeling regards chainsaw saftey gear - such as pants, maks , gloves etc, even with an electric one - are electric ones as dangerous as petrol ?

pps - - Boysie - i saw lidle ( or was it aldi ) Ireland had chainsaw saftey kit in a few weeks ago - just in case you need any. - they may have still in stock.

 

[big soft moose]

Thanks for all the advice,

I think i'll bite and get a chainsaw. ( again )

I did buy one earlier in the year, but when unpacked i got nervous ( even with it powered off ), and reading the instructions explaining all teh different ways it can kick and take my face, ears, arms off - i thought better of it , so took it back unused.

I did see one recently with some kind of anti-kickback device, ( i think it was a shield on the tip ) so i'll look into that again.

Thanks

Loz

ps - Whats the feeling regards chainsaw saftey gear - such as pants, maks , gloves etc, even with an electric one - are electric ones as dangerous as petrol ?

pps - - Boysie - i saw lidle ( or was it aldi ) Ireland had chainsaw saftey kit in a few weeks ago - just in case you need any. - they may have still in stock.

The anti kick back protection is a chain break lever that sits in front of your leading hand - this snaps on and stops the chain in a kick back situation, it can also be snapped on when moving arround - my advice would be not to buy a c/saw which doesnt have this.

re safety gear - if you like your legs etc attached then trousers, boots, gloves and safety visor are a must - expect these to cost as much as the saw if not more.

Also if using an electric saw use an RCD as it is quite easy to cut through the cable by accident.

my advice would be that if you are serious about this you should buy a petrol saw (get a decent one by sthil or husquavarna rather than one of the cheap ones fron B&Q et al), and get some training in safe use , sharpening etc (if you dont want to shell out for formal training at least get an experienced user to show you)

There is no need to be scared of a c/saw they are no more inherently dangerous than say a bandsaw, circular saw etc but you do need to know what you are doing, where appropriate ppe, and treat them with respect

(btw in my day job I'm a conservation and RoW proffesional and have been using chainsaws on a daily basis for 12 plus years - Ive seen and heard of way too many nasty accidents to advise anyone to take short cuts or buy cheap and nasty kit)

 

[user 5053]

Electric chain saws are very good these days and cost very little at around a £100 or so. You will need a petrol one for cutting through massive stuff. You need to learn about sharpening and maintenance as well.

 

[Paul.J]

Here is an earlier thread on Electric Chainsaws Loz.
I mainly bought one because i was cutting the logs up indoors,even with the doors open the fumes still got to me :shock:

 

[Anonymous]

...

re safety gear - if you like your legs etc attached then trousers, boots, gloves and safety visor are a must - expect these to cost as much as the saw if not more.

...you do need to know what you are doing, wear appropriate personal protective equipment, and treat them with respect

Don't ignore this advice if you use a chainsaw!

I'd add: Get Some Training!!

 

[big soft moose]

Here is an earlier thread on Electric Chainsaws Loz.
I mainly bought one because i was cutting the logs up indoors,even with the doors open the fumes still got to me :shock:

thats a good point - it is not advisable to use a petrol motor inside unless you have very good ventilation (there is also the issue with fire risk). I cut my logs up outside (or frequently in the field for ease of transport)

electric c/saws are a useful addition to the workshop ( I have one in addition to my 3 petrol c/saws) but if you can only afford one c/saw my advice would be to get a petrol and use it outside (btw I wouldnt be tempted by rechargable saws - these are great for pruning but dont have the oomph or bar length for cutting up logs for turning)

 

[wizer]

what about hiring a chainsaw?

 

[big soft moose]

what about hiring a chainsaw?

thats an option but can get expensive - also not every hire place carries them anymore on account of the liability / training angle

our local hire place has stopped carrying them - these days they offer a tyranosaw (an alligator type thing with two reciprocating blades) instead - great for logging but pants for ripping down the grain

another option would be to find a freindly local turner who has a saw and would be willing to cut them up for you - if you were on the mainland i would be happy to oblige but dublin is a bit far away - you could try your local woodturning club.

 

[Paul.J]

Another option would be to get friendly with a local Tree Surgeon,not too friendly though :shock: and perhaps he would give you some tuition.
The TS i know showed me how to sharpen the chain,saving me quite a bit of money now i have bought my own sharpening kit.

 

[loz]

mind you if you want them for turning you could also turn green by cutting them into logs as short as they are wide with a bow saw , splitting down the middle with an axe then cutting into bowl blanks with either a reciprocating saw, bandsaw , or carefully on the lathe with a roughing gouge

I think this is my only option - Im too worried now about Chainsaws, i'd never be able to hold one with any confidence.

But thanks for all the info and advice.

I will also do as suggested and contact the local club and see if someone local is willing to cut them for me.

Thanks Again

Loz

 

[Wanlock Dod]

Hi Loz,

I've had reasonable success at mutilating logs and stuff without the aid of a chainsaw. I usually use wedges and a lump hammer to split stuff down the middle, although this definately works best for short sections. The cross cutting I tend to do with a bow saw (if you get your finger you can most likely stop before you've completely removed it :shock: ).

I have a bandsaw which is capable of a 9 inch deep cut, so for small stuff I cut the pieces about 9 inches long and cut them sat vertically on the table. I also make quite a lot of use of a cheap power planer just to get thinsg into more manageable dimensions. For instance a short while ago I found a nice log of spalted beech about a foot in diameter (rather too big to go through the bandsaw as it was). I planed a flat area on one side, then flipped it over and planed the oposite face (I suppose this was really thicknessing :? ) until the piece was small emough to get under the bandsaw guides. I was then able to machine the log into several small planks around 2 inches thick, which will obviously dry much quicker.

I'm currently toying with the idea of moving on to chainsaws, but this is mostly because many of the nice pieces of timber that are lying around are way too big to carry. The spalted beech I mentioned above had to be carried a bit at a time over several days (whilst walking the dog), I took it about a hundred yards each time and after a week or so had it near enough to a road that I coudl get it in the car

Cheers,

Dod

 

[dickm]

If you do go the chainsaw route (which I would strongly recommend, in spite of the safety "problems") then once you've got the safety gear, also invest in a Dremel type mini-tool with chainsaw sharpening accessory. Like all tools, a sharp saw is much safer than a blunt one, because you are not so tempted to try and force things, but sharpening with a file is, IMHO, a total pain. Takes ages, and the end result is not that brilliant.
If you use the saw out in the wilds, it's even worth getting a rechargeable sharpener, or one that runs off a car battery (Oregon do a really neat one). When you are out in the field, you are likely to be on rough or unstable surfaces, where trying to force a blunt saw "just to finish the job", is even more dangerous.
Splitting with an axe and wedges is fine for straight grained wood, but the really interesting timbers often have interlocking grain, and either won't split, or split in strange directions.