No 4 plane blade angle?

[flanajb]

Hi,

I have just cleaned up my number 4 plane and decided to sharpen the blade. I used my trend sharpening system and ground a 30 degree and then a 25 degree like a chisel. I suspect this is wrong and would appreciate any pointers.

Also, the blade end was rusty and having sharpened it, it has gone a little bit crumbly. I suspect I need to buy a new plane blade ?


Thanks

 

[bugbear]

Hi,

I have just cleaned up my number 4 plane and decided to sharpen the blade. I used my trend sharpening system and ground a 30 degree and then a 25 degree like a chisel. I suspect this is wrong and would appreciate any pointers.

Grind at 25, hone at 30 has worked for a lot of woodworkers, for a lot of years, for both planes and chisels.

You're fine.

Also, the blade end was rusty and having sharpened it, it has gone a little bit crumbly. I suspect I need to buy a new plane blade ?

Crumbly. Tricky to diagnose; two possibilities head the list

* 1) you've only worked the bevel (not the back) and have an enormous wire edge hanging around

cure: remove the burr on a fine stone

* 2) (related) the back is slightly rusted and pitted, and is making the cutting edge weak and serrated

cure: clean, flatten and polish the back. Start by doing this "a little", since you can always do more.

It is possible that BOTH faults apply.

Someone who owns a Trend sharpener may be able to guess at the exact fault better than I can.

A replacement blade is probably not indicated by your present difficulties. Even if you do intend (or are forced) to buy a replacement blade, it's best to get your sharpening troubles out of the way first.

BugBear

 

[Mike Wingate]

Sound advice.

 

[condeesteso]

all good points above. Standard is 25 then 30 secondary - it is essential to get the back just as good as the front, and a flat mirror finish is the aim. Whilst the chipbreaker isn't the problem here, check it's leading edge anyway, and make sure that is flat to the blade (really flat) and the upper leading edge is clean, polished a bit, that helps shavingd flow through the mouth / throat better.
I am currently playing with steeper angles - 30 primary, 35 secondary. And I just did a No4 at 33 primary, 38 secondary, plus a 5 degree back bevel to get up to 50 degree pitch... sorry, I'm off again. Follow the above, get the back good and you'll have a fine blade.

 

[flanajb]

Hi,

I have just cleaned up my number 4 plane and decided to sharpen the blade. I used my trend sharpening system and ground a 30 degree and then a 25 degree like a chisel. I suspect this is wrong and would appreciate any pointers.

Grind at 25, hone at 30 has worked for a lot of woodworkers, for a lot of years, for both planes and chisels.

You're fine.

Also, the blade end was rusty and having sharpened it, it has gone a little bit crumbly. I suspect I need to buy a new plane blade ?

Crumbly. Tricky to diagnose; two possibilities head the list

* 1) you've only worked the bevel (not the back) and have an enormous wire edge hanging around

cure: remove the burr on a fine stone

* 2) (related) the back is slightly rusted and pitted, and is making the cutting edge weak and serrated

cure: clean, flatten and polish the back. Start by doing this "a little", since you can always do more.

It is possible that BOTH faults apply.

Someone who owns a Trend sharpener may be able to guess at the exact fault better than I can.

A replacement blade is probably not indicated by your present difficulties. Even if you do intend (or are forced) to buy a replacement blade, it's best to get your sharpening troubles out of the way first.

BugBear

Thanks for the detailed response.

I think I will buy a new blade as the old one is rather pitted and I think this was why it became serated after sharpening.

With regards to plane blades will a £10 Stanley blade be ok, or is it worth spending £40. I don't use the blade often and was wondering why one is 4 times the price. Is it because it stays sharper for longer ?

Thanks

 

[DTR]

The Quangsheng replacement blades are highly recommended on this forum, but they do require the plane's mouth to be filed a little wider.

 

[condeesteso]

absolutely - get a Quangsheng. If the QS is metal, a new Stanley is an obscure form of cheese. And the difference is a few quid. Your No4 is beginning to sound hot!!

 

[jimi43]

100% on the QS equivalent...they are relatively cheap...get the chipbreaker as well as a set if you can afford it. It transforms the plane. You will almost certainly need to file the mouth though.

Pitting on the back of these old Stanley irons can be a major problem if it gets right in the metal as it doesn't matter how many times you try to get the edge right..it will just break through in places and form the jagged edge that so many here have mentioned.

Make sure the sole is flat in three places (use a straight edge to check): The front...around the mouth and rear...should all be in alignment...the rest of the sole can be in alignment or slightly concave but NOT convex or you won't ever get thin shavings.

Jimi

 

[woodbloke]

100% on the QS equivalent...they are relatively cheap.. rest of the sole can be in alignment or slightly concave but NOT convex or you won't ever get thin shavings.

QS replacement blades are excellent. I've replaced the A2 blade on my LN block with a QS version and it drops straight it, but as others have said, you may have to file the mouth a tad on your No4. As an alternative, think about the laminated Jap blades from Axminster which are also very good and require no additional fettling of the plane mouth - Rob

 

[Mike Wingate]

I am awaiting a Quangsheng blade and chipbreaker for a No.3 plane. I have been pleased with the chipbreakers for a 5 and a 7 which are equipped with Axminster's SmoothCut Japanese laminated steel blades, that are really good, and fit all the relevent planes without any adaptation. I have a Rob Cosman combo. It is brilliant but the plane needed some work to get it to fit and work well. I have plaenty of Record/Stanley blades, that are really sharp, and take a good edge. The Better blades keep that edge longer and work the wood better. Your choice.

 

[flanajb]

If only I had read these posts before I took my trip to Axminster. I purchased a £10 Stanley blade!

I will have a look at the QS blades.

Thanks for all of the tips.

 

[Mike Wingate]

Send it back and exhange. I really rate the SmoothCuts from Axminster.

 

[bugbear]

I think I will buy a new blade as the old one is rather pitted and I think this was why it became serated after sharpening.

Do you have the means to post a close up picture of your blade, both bevel and back?

BugBear

 

[woodbloke]

If only I had read these posts before I took my trip to Axminster. I purchased a £10 Stanley blade!

Thanks for all of the tips.

Now I've heard everything...you mean you had a day out at Axminster and only spent a tenner? Restraint indeed...I'm impressed! :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[flanajb]

If only I had read these posts before I took my trip to Axminster. I purchased a £10 Stanley blade!

Thanks for all of the tips.

Now I've heard everything...you mean you had a day out at Axminster and only spent a tenner? Restraint indeed...I'm impressed! :lol: :lol: - Rob

If only. The plan was to only spend £20, but I came away £230 worse off. Next time I go I will take cash and leave the cc at home

 

[studders]

The plan was to only spend £20, but I came away £230 worse off.

I'd call that pretty good myself, could have been far worse.

Another +1 on the Quiansheng blades, terrific value.