Sheffield Tony
Ghost of the disenchanted
Secret Santa (aka SteveF !) brought me one of those planes I've been looking at for a while, marked only "Made in England" and "No 2", and looking to my eye at least a vaguely similar size as a Stanley #40.
My SS plane arrived with the clear instruction "Fettle me" me written on the sole, and it certainly needed it. Aside from the wobbly handle, the mouth was rough cast, and not perpendicular to the sides of the plane. Easy enough to file, but more bother was the pin against which the cutter clamps; this was skewed, with the holes in the casting misaligned by about 1.5mm. I thought about welding up and re-drilling one of the holes and quickly thought better of it. Instead I removed the pin, found a slightly thicker bit of rod, and enlarged the holes to suit with a needle file, adjusting one mostly fore and the other aft, so that the new pin sits square.
Before regrinding the blade to a camber, I thought I'd give it a go as is. When sharpened, it left a surprisingly good finish on some oak I had to hand. The main difficulty was setting it for a fine cut - the clamping screw tended to move the iron laterally when done up - a bit of work with a file to make the end of the screw more pointy helped a lot.
I ground the blade by eye to about a 6" radius, sharpened it using the natural oilstone that also came in the SS package (it appears to be a slate of sorts, and flattened/cleaned up quite nicely thanks !).
Gave it a go on a scrap of elm. Seems to work. The mouth is quite wide after tidying it up; offering up a piece of 1/8" O1 in place of the 2mm original iron,, it looks like it would fit nicely, when I get around to it.
Thanks again to SteveF - a bit of "Shed therapy" over christmas was just what was required !
My SS plane arrived with the clear instruction "Fettle me" me written on the sole, and it certainly needed it. Aside from the wobbly handle, the mouth was rough cast, and not perpendicular to the sides of the plane. Easy enough to file, but more bother was the pin against which the cutter clamps; this was skewed, with the holes in the casting misaligned by about 1.5mm. I thought about welding up and re-drilling one of the holes and quickly thought better of it. Instead I removed the pin, found a slightly thicker bit of rod, and enlarged the holes to suit with a needle file, adjusting one mostly fore and the other aft, so that the new pin sits square.
Before regrinding the blade to a camber, I thought I'd give it a go as is. When sharpened, it left a surprisingly good finish on some oak I had to hand. The main difficulty was setting it for a fine cut - the clamping screw tended to move the iron laterally when done up - a bit of work with a file to make the end of the screw more pointy helped a lot.
I ground the blade by eye to about a 6" radius, sharpened it using the natural oilstone that also came in the SS package (it appears to be a slate of sorts, and flattened/cleaned up quite nicely thanks !).
Gave it a go on a scrap of elm. Seems to work. The mouth is quite wide after tidying it up; offering up a piece of 1/8" O1 in place of the 2mm original iron,, it looks like it would fit nicely, when I get around to it.
Thanks again to SteveF - a bit of "Shed therapy" over christmas was just what was required !