Bonnie-Woody
Member
Help needed please.
Many thanks,
Karen.
Many thanks,
Karen.
SteveF":3pzep0fz said:I am sure loads of advice will follow
how about cutting top inch off barrel and hing it there
or even a metal dowel so it rotates...might need more than an inch though
attach glass..i can't think how...to top inch
Steve
hansonread":1hv7j2s7 said:Firstly, does the storage need to be something readily accessible, or is it for display purposes only? If its for display only, then I would suggest that you dont fix the glass down at all, instead drill 4 5.5mm (really important not to use a 6mm drill) holes equaly around the circumferance of the barrel, in to those hole screw M6 cap head bolts, like these https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cap+h ... B360%3B360
Place the barrel on a level surface and then screw the screws into the holes all the way, so there is no longer any thread showing, the screws will cut there own thred in the wood, and should stay there nicely enough to not have to worry about cutting a thread into the wood or epoxying a nut in etc. these 4 platforms then become little leveling posts that you can screw in and out to take up and descrepency in the rim of the barrel.
I would then fill the head of the bolt with a clear epoxy right to the top and once hardened file/sand off and polish to match the stainless steel bolt. On top of this now flat surface I would then stick little domed door buffers the type you would stick onto a kitchen door to then rest the glass on, the weight of the glass would provide you with ample friction for the glass to remain in place yet still be easy enough to change the display within.
I have made a square box with a glass lid that swung out of the way without disturbing the stuff on top of the table but custom made the mechanism to suit, and without knowing if you have access to a metal turning lathe, welding equipment and the ability to use UV activated glue for sticking things to glass its a bit involved to go into on here.
If a mechanism like that was something you were really after I could talk you through how to make one, or even make it for you, but even at mates rates, its still not a cheep thing to produce.
SteveF":1h2cj1st said:are you making the barels?
could you put vertical banding and get one of them to swivel out..with glass attached
Steve
SteveF":2mt93xp1 said:are you making the barels?
could you put vertical banding and get one of them to swivel out..with glass attached
Steve
Bonnie-Woody":14cra8vg said:hansonread":14cra8vg said:Firstly, does the storage need to be something readily accessible, or is it for display purposes only? If its for display only, then I would suggest that you dont fix the glass down at all, instead drill 4 5.5mm (really important not to use a 6mm drill) holes equaly around the circumferance of the barrel, in to those hole screw M6 cap head bolts, like these https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cap+h ... B360%3B360
Place the barrel on a level surface and then screw the screws into the holes all the way, so there is no longer any thread showing, the screws will cut there own thred in the wood, and should stay there nicely enough to not have to worry about cutting a thread into the wood or epoxying a nut in etc. these 4 platforms then become little leveling posts that you can screw in and out to take up and descrepency in the rim of the barrel.
I would then fill the head of the bolt with a clear epoxy right to the top and once hardened file/sand off and polish to match the stainless steel bolt. On top of this now flat surface I would then stick little domed door buffers the type you would stick onto a kitchen door to then rest the glass on, the weight of the glass would provide you with ample friction for the glass to remain in place yet still be easy enough to change the display within.
I have made a square box with a glass lid that swung out of the way without disturbing the stuff on top of the table but custom made the mechanism to suit, and without knowing if you have access to a metal turning lathe, welding equipment and the ability to use UV activated glue for sticking things to glass its a bit involved to go into on here.
If a mechanism like that was something you were really after I could talk you through how to make one, or even make it for you, but even at mates rates, its still not a cheep thing to produce.
Hi, thank you very much for your reply. I wanted the rotating lid to be practical, enabling the customer to use daily if needs be (not on the fixed one though). I am a tad confused as to the screws and the purpose of the glass lying on them. That's because of my lack of understanding and knowledge and not your explanation, I'm sure everyone else understands, I'm just struggling a bit as I'm not a professional. I do love to learn though, especially where woodwork is concerned, I love it ;-)
hansonread":2r474att said:Bonnie-Woody":2r474att said:hansonread":2r474att said:Firstly, does the storage need to be something readily accessible, or is it for display purposes only? If its for display only, then I would suggest that you dont fix the glass down at all, instead drill 4 5.5mm (really important not to use a 6mm drill) holes equaly around the circumferance of the barrel, in to those hole screw M6 cap head bolts, like these https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cap+h ... B360%3B360
Place the barrel on a level surface and then screw the screws into the holes all the way, so there is no longer any thread showing, the screws will cut there own thred in the wood, and should stay there nicely enough to not have to worry about cutting a thread into the wood or epoxying a nut in etc. these 4 platforms then become little leveling posts that you can screw in and out to take up and descrepency in the rim of the barrel.
I would then fill the head of the bolt with a clear epoxy right to the top and once hardened file/sand off and polish to match the stainless steel bolt. On top of this now flat surface I would then stick little domed door buffers the type you would stick onto a kitchen door to then rest the glass on, the weight of the glass would provide you with ample friction for the glass to remain in place yet still be easy enough to change the display within.
I have made a square box with a glass lid that swung out of the way without disturbing the stuff on top of the table but custom made the mechanism to suit, and without knowing if you have access to a metal turning lathe, welding equipment and the ability to use UV activated glue for sticking things to glass its a bit involved to go into on here.
If a mechanism like that was something you were really after I could talk you through how to make one, or even make it for you, but even at mates rates, its still not a cheep thing to produce.
Hi, thank you very much for your reply. I wanted the rotating lid to be practical, enabling the customer to use daily if needs be (not on the fixed one though). I am a tad confused as to the screws and the purpose of the glass lying on them. That's because of my lack of understanding and knowledge and not your explanation, I'm sure everyone else understands, I'm just struggling a bit as I'm not a professional. I do love to learn though, especially where woodwork is concerned, I love it ;-)
You say customer, can I ask what you do for a living?
The screws are there to act as means to level the top if the half barrel wasn't perfectly straight.
Its fun learning, a day without learning is a day wasted!
RogerS":12ipl61e said:why do you want to fix it at all! toughened glass is pretty heavy. little overlap so no tipping
yetloh":19kzncjj said:I assume you are having the glass made for these. One solution for future pieces would be to have them made with 3 or 4 holes drilled and placed just inside the inner circumference of the barrel. You could then put bolts/studs through these holes that project down into the barrel and locate the top so that it cannot be easily displaced. The top could then be easily lifted off and replaced for access to the inside. I am sure it would be possible to find some sort of fitting - perhaps with a domed top - that would look attractive. For existing glass you could perhaps glue pieces of stainless or brass rod to the underside (strong glass adhesives are available) to perform the same function and cover the glue fromthe top by means of a glued on disc of the same metal. These are relatively crude solutions but they would work and if well executed could look smart.
Jim
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