Newbie - handling fresh wood

[OldWood]

I've been given some lengths of apple - freshly cut and up to 10" dia. The larger bits are up to 36" long.

Do I cut the longer lengths into lathe friendly lengths ?

Do I take off the bark or paint the wax solution over the 2" back from the end ?

Couple of areas of minor damage along the length of one piece - do I paint that as well ?

I'm in no hurry to use this wood so I can let it dry out slowly - there's one long thinner bit I might play with in it's present state.

Many thanks
Rob

 

[Bodrighy]

Personally, if you are in no hurry to use it I would slap paint/ PVA or whatever over the ends and leave as is. You could split the thicker pieces down the middle if you want to. Apple IME splits whatever you do so if you leave it long you stand a better chance of keeping some decent usable lengths. Others no doubt will come along with alternatives

Pete

 

[CHJ]

Unless you intend to turn it green and very thin I advise you do not cut it up any smaller (lathe ready bits), Keep as long as possible whilst it is loosing moisture, any end splits will then be a smaller proportion of the whole.

Seal ends well. the quicker the better.

If large chunks of bark missing then seal.

Do Not take Bark Off.

The slower you can dry it the less likelihood of splitting.

There is a link to some more comments and thread on the subject in the Safety and Help sticky.

 

[Paul.J]

Depending what you intend to do with timber Rob,all i can say is keep the logs as long as poss until you are ready to use them.
I had some Apple logs that i left firstly outside and then put them in the shed to dry out sort of.
Sorted them out not so long ago and about 4"-5" had split on the ends,which i cut off before mounting on the lathe.The rest of any split was just turned out and both pieces were fine.
I like Apple it turns lovely and gives some very nice colour

 

[OldWood]

Thanks guys - that's the sort of info I wanted.

I know that the basic moisture meters aren't that reliable but presumably using one will give me some sort of guide to when the wood is becoming dry enough to use ?

Rob

 

[CHJ]

Thanks guys - that's the sort of info I wanted.

I know that the basic moisture meters aren't that reliable but presumably using one will give me some sort of guide to when the wood is becoming dry enough to use ?

Rob

They are good enough for basic turning guidance at least mine is, but as far as your logs are concerned they will not be of much use.

In log form it can take several years before they are low enough to be safe to use without undue risk. say below 20%. unless deliberately turning green and thin.

If you split some of the wood down the middle it will speed up drying but with fruit wood it is still risky to try and dry too quickly.

I suggest you take a piece and slab it into 30-50 mm slabs, The core(pith area) will inevitably split so might as well cut the centre slab in two down the pith.

Basic wood drying wisdom says that in free air allow one year per 25mm of thickness. Checking these slabs with a moisture meter is worthwhile, In my experience bringing slabs that have achieved less than 18-20% into warmer conditions speeds up the drying without too much risk, make sure end grain is well sealed at all times.

I have managed to dry some cherry using this method, a wood quite notorious for splitting.

Try the different methods as samples and see which method in your conditions work best.

A lot is dependant on your particular storage location, humidity etc. and what works for one person may not for another.

You could try turning a piece Green and wrapping to dry Similar to this but fruit wood will move a lot more than this Beech and may well split on you.

 

[OldWood]

Chas
Thanks for that input; it does rather suggest I will have a longish wait to use this wood !!

This paragraph has me a bit confused - sorry !

"I suggest you take a piece and slab it into 30-50 mm slabs, The core(pith area) will inevitably split so might as well cut the centre slab in two down the pith. "

Are you suggesting the 'logs' are cut into 30 to 50mm blanks across the grain or is the cutting with the grain; ie cross cut or rip saw ?

As an aside from this, I went off to have a look at your website; seriously impressive - I've an awful long way to go !! There will be a lot of time spent exploring your superb output. But can you tell me please, what are the cylindrical objects with the screw off head and the beaded shaft inside?

Cheers
Rob

 

[big soft moose]

Chas
Thanks for that input; it does rather suggest I will have a longish wait to use this wood !!

This paragraph has me a bit confused - sorry !

"I suggest you take a piece and slab it into 30-50 mm slabs, The core(pith area) will inevitably split so might as well cut the centre slab in two down the pith. "

Are you suggesting the 'logs' are cut into 30 to 50mm blanks across the grain or is the cutting with the grain; ie cross cut or rip saw ?

As an aside from this, I went off to have a look at your website; seriously impressive - I've an awful long way to go !! There will be a lot of time spent exploring your superb output. But can you tell me please, what are the cylindrical objects with the screw off head and the beaded shaft inside?

Cheers
Rob

hes talking about planking down the grain - the best tool for the job (in trained hands) is a chainsaw - though you can make a sled to do it on the bandsaw

the other thing you could do is to part turn some of the wood green (that is turn it to about 1 ins thickness then wax all over ) - when i do this i weigh the bowl or form and mark the weight on the base in pencil - reweighing every three months allows you to keep track of the drying - when the weight doesnt change it is at roughly the same moisture content as the air in your 'shop and you can remount to turn it back round (it will probably have gone oval in the drying process) and finish it

you will lose some bowls to cracking during the drying but my success rate with plum and chery has been about 80% ( that is one in every 5 cracks)

 

[CHJ]

.....This paragraph has me a bit confused - sorry !

"I suggest you take a piece and slab it into 30-50 mm slabs, The core(pith area) will inevitably split so might as well cut the centre slab in two down the pith. "

Are you suggesting the 'logs' are cut into 30 to 50mm blanks across the grain or is the cutting with the grain; ie cross cut or rip saw ?

With the grain,

..... can you tell me please, what are the cylindrical objects with the screw off head and the beaded shaft inside?

Sewing kits Rob.

 

[OldWood]

Ahh - a hussif. Where do you get the metal bits from ?

And thanks again for the wet wood advice - understand now!

Cheers
Rob

 

[DaveL]

Ahh - a hussif. Where do you get the metal bits from ?

Chas turns them, he has metalwork tooling as well as the woodwork kit.

 

[big soft moose]

for those less equiped/acomplished than chas you can also buy them from turners retreat - and doubtless other places