Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Nails, from a pneumatic coil nailer or Paslode type if you can scabby one for a weekend. They are very efficient and don’t beat the structure about like a hammer does.
New workshop
- Thread starter Jim Dance
- Start date
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Stuart Moffat
Established Member
Lots of good comments already. My two penneth worth having completed a new workshop about a year ago, is that however much time and thought you spend planning the layout, you are bound to want to change at least some of it, I have 3 or 4 fresh cleat rails pretty much all round, mostly above worktop height, but lower down where appropriate. the only thing that is fixed directly to a wall is a CamVac. Various holders hanging on the french cleats are all task/machine specific. E.g. the grinding jigs hang near the Tormec. All drilling bits are near th pillar drill. Likewise there is a sanding station, a polishing station, and so on. Any machine and all its gubbins can easily be moved, temporarily or long term.
Stuart Moffat
Established Member
Oops that should have read French Cleats not fresh ones, Worth googling!
thanks for the feedback, done a deal with son inlay so now have 1st fix gun for a while, also bought some stainless nails for over the top fixings, so cladding started, hoping electric will get connected today to confirm my wiring is good!!!
Jonm
Established Member
Very impressive workshop, I would be concerned that the lady of the house has other plans for it!
Going back to your original question regarding layout, one way of proceeding is to draw the floor plan to scale on paper with windows and doors marked plus any areas where you cannot put anything (door opening areas etc). Then on separate pieces of paper draw the items you want to include, to the same scale as the floor plan, and cut the shapes out, obviously writing on what each one is. You can include working areas for each machine, but they can overlap, perhaps you could do working areas on clear film. Then you can quickly move the cut pieces of paper/film around to come up with a layout.
I did this to try different room layouts for my house (new build) Obviously you can do this with a computer and in 3D, bit like kitchen designers, if you have the skills or are willing to spend the time learning them. Otherwise my suggested method is really quick and easy to do.
Going back to your original question regarding layout, one way of proceeding is to draw the floor plan to scale on paper with windows and doors marked plus any areas where you cannot put anything (door opening areas etc). Then on separate pieces of paper draw the items you want to include, to the same scale as the floor plan, and cut the shapes out, obviously writing on what each one is. You can include working areas for each machine, but they can overlap, perhaps you could do working areas on clear film. Then you can quickly move the cut pieces of paper/film around to come up with a layout.
I did this to try different room layouts for my house (new build) Obviously you can do this with a computer and in 3D, bit like kitchen designers, if you have the skills or are willing to spend the time learning them. Otherwise my suggested method is really quick and easy to do.
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
That’s the way to go.
looking really good inside. Well done.
Cladding done, longest piece of cladding left is around 1m so feeling very smug on my design quantities. Other half wants to do the stain so onto the inside, design still a little fluid but will start with 1 or 2 end benches, roof started smoking today after sun and rain so design must be hot!
Attachments
Need to do some cladding. Front of our dormer house. It is south-facing and the previous boards have only survived three or four years. I never knew wood could curl quite as much as that...
What's the best material to use? It's not a vast area (c. 8m x 1.5m with three windows) so material cost is not paramount. Previous installation was clearly done with inferior stuff.
Several houses on the road have got plastic. I won't do that. I see Western red cedar, European larch, European oak and Douglas fir mentioned - Oak doesn't seem more eye-watering than others.
At 75, I'm not going clambering on roofs any more so I want something that has a good chance of lasting me out - at least till I go into care...
What's the best material to use? It's not a vast area (c. 8m x 1.5m with three windows) so material cost is not paramount. Previous installation was clearly done with inferior stuff.
Several houses on the road have got plastic. I won't do that. I see Western red cedar, European larch, European oak and Douglas fir mentioned - Oak doesn't seem more eye-watering than others.
At 75, I'm not going clambering on roofs any more so I want something that has a good chance of lasting me out - at least till I go into care...
Last edited:
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Tidy job of the cladding, you should smile inside every time you look at it. Something to be proud of, we’ll done.
Peter601926
Member
- Joined
- 29 Jun 2020
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Hi what is the thickness of your osb please.
clogs
just can't decide
For a smallish workshop I always liked the bench saw and the pl/thickn on wheels near the door.....
remember that 6" legnth of wood will need that same amount on the other/exit side of the saw......
like they said before keep everything movable until your sure what u want....
remember that 6" legnth of wood will need that same amount on the other/exit side of the saw......
like they said before keep everything movable until your sure what u want....
Almost exactly the same for me. Yesterday, 9mm birch ply £46.35 plus vat. In April, £27.45 plus
Intern
Internal walls, ceiling 11mm osb as not really structural
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
I’d think about using Hardie plank or Cedral. Both have 15 year warranty and never need treating. 21 colours to choose from As well.
