New Workshop walls

[beech1948]

Hi,

I was wondering about using steel panels with insulation already installed to be the wals of my new workshop.

Just like the outside of many warehouses. I can get it with upto 100mm of insulation. Size isn't a problem.

I wonder if this can be applied to a wooden framew thougfh. All of the web sites I have seen refer to Z shaped steel rafters etc. I could use the same construction for the roof also maybe.

Has anyone ever used this stuff....is there any advice outther in web land.

regards
Alan

 

[9fingers]

I presume you would attach it to the frame with self tapping screws from the inside. I expect the manufacturer has special pieces to deal with corners etc.
Provided you design the frame pitch to be appropriate to the corrugations, I would imagine it will do a good job.
I've only ever seen it used with a steel frame but with a bit of planning should be Ok with wood.

Good Luck

Bob

 

[dennis]

Alan

Yes there is really no difference using a wooden frame apart from the screws, in metal you use self tappers but in wood you use longer courser threaded ones I am sure that they are in screwfix

Dennis

 

[OLD]

Its a good idea this info could help. remember you will need 'bent sheet at the junctions eg roof to gable sle do these.
http://www.slecladding.co.uk/contents2.htm#steel
this info may help in any calcs. for purlins etc page 68.
http://www.stapeley1.plus.com/build regs & calcs.pdf

 

[beech1948]

Hi,
I am going to visit SLE in Whitchurch next week to have a look at what they have and to try to pick their brains.

At present I am thinking of a workshop of about 16FT by 28 ft. The size is determined by the footprint of an ancient barn ( a wreck at present) which has a sound and very thick . . 10" or more concrete ( don't want to dig it up) base. Fortunately the base stands 6" above the ground. Unfortunately I don't think it has a damp proof membrane.

So my dastardly plan is to create a base wall around the perimeter from very dense concrete blocks with a dpc underneath and some steel rods through the concrete blocks at 600mm centers. I will drill and epoxy steel rods into holes at 600mm centers. I will fix the wooden frame down to these.

The real design crunch is the size and shape of the wall frames as to get the most use out of boards I need to size to complete panels or ply boards.

So at present I am struggling to get complete steel insulated panels aligned with my wooden frame uprights so that I don't have to cut them lengthways.

I was kind of thinking that I could make up wooden panels to fit in windows by doing a full vertical panel from floor to roof and using these to make up for the lack of fit in total length of the steel panels.

I still don't really understand how to finish or seal the edges of the vertical steel panels against my frames. So I have to try to get more info.

regards
Alan

 

[OLD]

One idea would be to bolt treated timber through a dpc strip to the edge of the base so the panels will discharge water just clear of the base to keep it dry so minimal/no damp will come through it and can be dealt with by a proofing of the floor if its required.
Turn by the raven pub for tilstock then about 100 yds for sle yard

 

[dennis]

Alan

As your concrete base is 6 inches above ground why dont you put a tanalised soleplate flush with the outside of your base and then let the sheets fly down 3inches.You will be able to get flashings to go up the corners.The sheets can be cut with a grinder or a power hacksaw so it shouldnt be too much of a problem cutting out for windows.The other thing is how do you stand as regards planning permission for different materials or even building at all as you dont want to build something only to have to knock it down.

Dennis

 

[9fingers]

Alan, with those dimensions, I think you will need building regs approval and depending on location, proximity to your house and roads maybe Planning permission too.
If the planners get involved, they are likely to have a view on the external appearance. Possible best to call the new building a store or something similar - certainly not a workshop!!

Good Luck

Bob

 

[beech1948]

Hi,

The planning issues have been dealt with. I had both a planner and a Building Regs inspection recently. The outcome was that as I was replacing an existing building, and as it was the same size(ish), and as it is at least a 1/2 mile from neighbours, and as it is 20 m from my house and not near a boundary except a stone wall it would be OK to proceed without planning application being needed.

They have even offered to write to me to confirm this.

A concern I have is that just putting the side walls 3 or 5 inches below the slab might not be enough. Thats why I was going to add a pseudo wall and DPC and bolt the wood frame to the wall.

regards

Alan

 

[dennis]

Alan

I would think lapping the sheets 3inches down the base would be more than enough unless it is in an area that floods and I would make sure that the sole plate sat on top of the base for load bearing purposes as Iam not sure if it was implied to bolt it on the side of the base.

Dennis

 

[dennis]

Alan

I forgot to add you could waterproof the edges of your base with synthaprufe or something similar as has been mentioned on another thread.

Dennis