New vid - setting planer / jointer / thicknesser knives

[Steve Maskery]

Again, a plug at the end. No scream.

http://blip.tv/file/2450654

It's intended to complement BW #13, which I think is due out any day now.
Enjoy.

Edit - yes, I know the beginning is the same!

S

 

[Gower]

Thanks Steve. Now I know!
Cheers,
Jim

 

[OPJ]

Another excellent video, Steve, and I love the irony in selection of the music (Mission:Impossible... Sort of! )

I've learned a couple of things as well - that feeler gauge setting tip [Why didn't I think of that??? :x] and 'locking' the cutter block in place with the jig between the two tables.

I've got those Dakota ones [they're much cheaper at Axminster!! :shock:] and I find that both the scale of one jig is 'out' when compared to the other one. So, as you have done, I label one for each end of the cutter block.

The latest issue is due out on Thursday, according to the previous one.

 

[devonwoody]

Hi Steve, watched your video which I thought would make life easier if I had a set of those jigs. Does anyone know if they fit the SIP machine?

Also I noted your comment on being careful how you drop or push the plunger down, do you think it could be an improvement to glue on a micro thin layer of that plastic (cannot think of its trade name) to avoid damage to a new blade cutting edge?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi DW

I don't know if they fit the SIP machine, but if it is a 10" machine, it's difficult to see how it could be much smaller than my Kity.

You could add a layer of plastic, but it would have to be thin. I'm sure that just being careful is adequate.

One thing I forgot to mention. The knives need to be free to move in the slot when you set them. If they are snug, the jigs may not set them in quite the right position and a few thou makes a lot of difference.

BTW, following Olly's comment about why the knives have to be set high, I've added a scene to the vid showing an illustration. It's rendering now and I'll upload it later.

Cheers
Steve

 

[kityuser]

Steve, thanks for the vid, I`ve got the orange jig , can't remember the thread where I asked about using it, never really had much luck, to be honest was starting to get a bit dejected and gave up.

I`ll have a bash tonight when I get home.

thanks again

Steve

 

[Imperial]

Thank you for that excellent video :wink:

 

[mpooley]

Thanks Steve

I have a set of the Dakota's but havn't used them yet --- that was very very handy

Mike Pooley

 

[Doug B]

Very good video Steve, thanks.

The knife jigs look like great time savers.

I was wondering if they would suite my planner, rather than try & explain i`ve included a photo.

The knife is skewed in the block, the gullet/ clamping bar behind the knife is 12mm.
Do you think these jigs would fit on the block & hold a skewed knife.

 

[wizer]

Do you tables not lift doug?

 

[Doug B]

Do you tables not lift doug?

I can move them backwards & forwards to expose more of the block, but they don`t lift Tom.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well, as Mavis would say, I don't really know.

The feet need about 60mm to stand in. A bit less really depending on the curvature of your block, but standing square on a flat surface, 60mm for the Dakota, 56mm for the Barko. I don't see why being skewed would make any difference, but then I've never fitted skewed blades.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Racers]

Hi,

The only problem I can see it they will be ofset by the amount of skew in the blade.

Pete

 

[Benchwayze]

I used to change the blades on my tiny 4.5" Coronet planer with no fears. It was fiddly, but do-able.

Now, I have 3 knives on my Sedgwick 12", so I got in touch with the machinist at my local sawmill. He was willing to come do this for me for the price of a few pints.

I agreed as long as I could quote the cheapest pub! NP he said...

So that's one worry I don't have any more. Now I can change the knives I've honed for a long time and which still function perfectly, but could do with the new set,!

 

[kityuser]

STEVE....... the vid is gone?

your link is now broken?


Steve

 

[Steve Maskery]

Oh no it's not!

Well yes, if you bookmarked the original, I've deleted it and replaced it with one with an extra scene, just for Olly

The link at the top of this thread is the new one. Works here, anyway.

Sorry if I confused you.

S

 

[kityuser]

:? d'oh

ok, will try later when I try to set my blade.

I`ll have the lappy on the bench pausing and trying on my planer as I go....... *shudder*


Steve

 

[devonwoody]

I measured the roller space on my SIP and it was only just over 35mm.
So nbg for me.

 

[kityuser]

I've followed the vid, used the orange jigs (forget the name now).

just with a visual inspection the knives look 100% (same reveal on the edge).

Didn't get the time to check with the drag test. Will the drag test tell me if the infeed table is level with the cutter block. On my planer I have adjusted the outfeed table so that it is in the same plane as the infeed table (long steel rule placed bridging the two tables).

Steve

 

[Steve Maskery]

Will the drag test tell me if the infeed table is level with the cutter block.

Not on its own, no. The drag test tells you if the knives are the same at both ends and the same as each other.

If you still get snipe, then the drag test is too long. Raise the table until you get no snipe but you still have some drag. The exact amount of drag will differ from machine to machine (cutter block diameter, number of knives) but the principle is right for all machines.

Cheers
Steve